Nickfromwales

And he comes from a very prestige part of the country too.

I use CVC Systems in Oxford for all my clients builds where I’m in control of the M&E. Had some great results, lots of support for design and spec of kit, and very good after sales service too. PM me if you need contact details of who to speak to.

Just make it as least wind-resisting as possible if it’s going to get blown on.

Hope it’s an EV….

The seals on their French doors were a bit shite, but by and large the client seemed happy with them. The handle for the slider, vs where the lock was, was a bit poorly thought out and if the key was left in it it was a bit of a conflict. That was 2023, so things may have improved. 🤷‍♂️. Rationale are quite good units, very robust, and the least of the bank-breakers, but for one client their sliding door options wasn’t the best so we went to Velfac for the 4.9m 3-panels slider. Not the nicest of mechanisms imho, but the lady of the house could operate it independently so all good I guess.

If it gets to that low a recovery temp, the cylinder stat is on the floor and the cylinder is sat on it?

Increases the rate that you consume deodorant though..........

Lol, ok, but you're supposed to tell us that nugget at the beginning

Thanks. Appreciated.

Won't scratch the surface of all the places you don't even know you have air leaking out of. Use the force.

Don't they still have / utilise 'exchanges' for fibre? Surely it's not direct from source?

Arise...........you are worthy.

Good man. Have you considered AeroBarrier to get you to <0.6ACH? One we just had done started out at 1.2 ACH and a few hours later was sub 0.2.

Fit it and say feck all. I doubt anyone other than the next door neighbour, if you've pissed them off, would ever pull you up over it. If they do, just go for a retrospective amendment to get it approved. This country is an ass!!!!

If you don't ply, you'll be re-tiling 6 months later. Tile adhesive does NOT take to the P5 chipboard at all. Main source of my income for about a decade, doing insurance work repairing such shoddy (and subsequently failed or failing) work. Stop guessing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Even with normal concrete it can be a nightmare. Most are simply too keen to get the wagon emptied out, so the next one can back up and empty that too. No time for the slump to be properly checked unless you're ferocious in insisting this gets done for each wagon. And then, if it's not right, you need a plan B in place ready to effect.

315mm of 'slab' to heat...... I think you should reconsider this, as cooling via your slab wold be quite a nice thing for the summer months. Is it a Heb home? Or independant?

It's not hate. It's a pragmatic discussion involving some strangers on the internet I just doubt it's necessary, and my advice not to DIY is caused by the shiver that goes down my spine when someone, as a complete novice, thinks that this product will in any way make this easy or 'lay itself'. Regular concrete and a dapple bar, a home-made one at that, will be all that's needed. (IMHO).

I'm against the 'magic' stuff btw, and I've seen enough concrete pours go tits up to know it's not a job for the feint-hearted or uninitiated.

Yes, very. Clients architect spec’d it to go around the subterranean parts of a walk out basement, and I remember them raising an eyebrow or three when the builder quoted for the quantity needed. I still think two layers of EPS would have done the job perfectly well, but their architect and SE were setting fire to money at an extraordinary rate of knots, and what they came up with was usually a pile of shite. Foamglass wouldn’t take kindly to being compacted either.

Thanks for this Will be very helpful to anyone who is stuck with the same issue. Any chance of an RS part number please?

Of all the places to have a go, this isn’t one imho. If this goes wrong, it’ll be spectacular. Having any pour is manageable, but if you take charge then you accept full responsibility and liability, and can’t look to someone else to redo it at their cost if they feck it up. I doubt the cost saving vs risk makes any sense here whatsoever.

👆. Airtightness is of paramount importance, eg more than just draught-proofing it. I’ll not fret about the planning etc, thats another subject but i assume it’s in hand. A demountable building escapes these constraints as per @Crofter’s cabin / hut build. @Waterworks, have you read that thread yet? This will need a portable genny and some solar PV, and probably a leisure battery as anyone staying there all year will need even basic cooking facilities and hot water / fridge etc?? Fridge and hot water can be done via propane, a-la a camper van, and ao could the heating. Gas is defo a major help here if it’s off grid and you need to be as least reliant on electricity as possible. Going to need some power from somewhere unless you’re going full on Neanderthal.

No mains electricity

Anything’s possible / doable with the right people and mindsets. You may have to pay them for dead time, and latex in 2 sittings. Latex the whole area up to about 300mm away from the fridge, and then lay 60% of the LVT. Cover an area with 4mm hardboard, then sit the fridge on it. Then latex the remaining area, block the joint and smooth it out, and then lay the rest of the LVT.