Nickfromwales

Check with the SE, they will have specified?

Diplomacy isn't working. You can't repeat the action and expect a different result, so stop him from doing any more work and ask him if he's interested in the rest of the job (or not). His response will be what decides your new direction / next decision. Tell him straight, no quivery top lip, that you have slept on it and cannot accept the discrepancy. End of feckin chat. If he shrugs his shoulders and packs up and fecks off, good riddance. If he decides to offer up a solution to rectify, then tell him it has to be removed on his time and not yours as it should have been right first time. Stop tolerating useless assholes. I wouldn't get away with this, how can he????

............but apart from that it's all going swimmingly. A pic without the insulation would help, and why doesn't the white pipe tag into the soil in the boxing in?

Time to put your foot down then?

Whilst in pub, get text from plaster moaning about all the other pipes in the other places……. 30 - 15, play on 🤣.

Then I’ve been very successfully “stretching” myself for the last couple of decades. 1). Drill hole. 2). Insert pipe through hole. 3). See 1. 4). Count to 21 and stop. 🤷‍♂️🙃

I’m on my way. I can do it for £5999, on mates rates. Can’t you just find a decent local plumber (“heating engineer……”) to put pipes from A-B with you supplying? It’s ridiculously simple work, easier than putting a combi boiler in.

There are times when folk cant see the woods for the trees. Just use copper off the manifolds, then a hep2o connector to concert back to plastic once through the fire wall. ”Simples!”

Too much kit spread all over the house. Radial methodology is supposed to do away with such complication.

Without a full topological survey of the entire area, it's impossible to advise. Some idea on possible permeability further down may offer a solution, but there is just not enough info here to even have a stab at it, sorry.

You'll probably be his only fan.......

Make sure the door to the bathroom has either a transfer grille, or an 8-10mm undercut on the bottom of the door, to let air in at the same volume that the extractor wants to remove it. Overrun timer is a must, my bathroom fan runs for 30-40 mins after each activation, to completely remove any moisture; it was shite at first, then I realised I'd no air coming in to the room, so chopped 10mm off the bottom of the door and then the magic happened. I'm always rushed doing any work in my own house so often don't see the woods for the trees.

Then it's not a problem.

You'd still need to set out the whole floor, to get the joints / lines to marry up? Not seen the pattern or style, so it's difficult for me to reply 100%.

I usually cut a strip of self adhesive neoprene (20mm thick) along the lower rear of the unit, so when it top hangs and the bottom falls back against the wall it is on to something soft. A slice of pipe insulation will suffice, but if you're happy then no need to do anything further. Thanks for updating the thread

A couple of oscillating desk fans left on to blow across the floor will help a lot. LVT is usually click lock, so you can’t randomly pre-insert sections, this needs to all go down in one hit.

It'll have to be hand picked-apart, so will be time-consuming and at the higher cost level for sure. Not sure about DIY as you'd need to be insured for all eventualities. What's access like for grab trucks to stop and load? Typically these would need 15 mins on site to pick up a full load, possibly blocking the road and needing a few people on traffic management, and to reduce costs you would likely need to segregate waste / spoil / inert hardcore etc vs mixed loads. You can use skips, but you'd need parking space for 2 skips per 24hrs, and get them collected and swapped out for new ones at the end of each day, say 4-4:30pm to miss school and 5pm rush hour, and folk coming home from work etc. You need a gang on site for 2 weeks, semi-skilled, probably a general builder and his skivvies, and drop it floor by floor; roof covering off and gone via a skip(s), then timberwork of roof down, same, then fold the gables in, same, then pull the 1st floor walls in on themselves, same, and so on. Damage to neighbouring properties is the biggy, so you'd need PWA's in place and scaffold with timber barriers to stop falling object debris from causing personal injury, the whole 9 yards. Whole site will need to be fully wrapped in scaff with sheeting, one guy on the hose pipe all day long to control dust, then also you need to prevent access by kids etc....list goes on. May be cheaper to get the same contractor doing the grounds and new founds to price you turnkey (demo and founds) same I am about to do for another new client (demo and new replacement dwelling), as value-engineering is difficult when piecemealing a project out and having multiples of contracts done in isolation; more meat on the bone, the lower the cost etc.

Crossed with @torre, same idea!

Narrower, longer rectangular tray and enclosure? Come right down to meet the towel rad; leave 150mm gap. That would generate more space opposite the WC. What’s the width of the enclosure atm?

If the gaps exceed 600mm add 2 pieces as shown.

Diagram B every time 👌.

My mate (screeder) and his boys lay dry screed as good as liquid, often better. You can almost paint the floor after he’s done his bit. Benefit of dry screed is placement, as it stays where you ‘put’ it, whereas leveller or liquids want to equalise across the area. If you have multiple different openings this can be of benefit if they're not all matching perfectly.

You’ll actually need less room than you think. Would be a simpler solution too. I’ll now say anything to avoid me having to do an ‘emergency callout’…..

Yes. No choice at that length / width. Used a guy who flies through these jobs, with better knees than me.

The above was 140m2 L-shape raft, no mat used and no expansion cuts / joints at thresholds. Zero movement at these low temps.