Nickfromwales

All you have to do is imagine yourself as the mouse. Where Mickey can invade, rodent barrier. Simples. You can keep the little blighters out, but it requires effort an attention to detail. Same ethos for airtightness, where you study where a ‘molecule of air’ would travel to infiltrate your airtightness measures. It’s enough to make you lose a day just thinking about it, but try explaining this to a builder and he will have you certified. “They” just don’t get it…. I do try educating, but it’s a bloody uphill struggle.

Which is why you’re still a member of this forum We’ve sworn a pact to keep you from fecking yourself up….. Admittedly it didn’t appear robust with the grouting….

Interrupting the gas supply means a new gas cert MUST be issued!! An appliance moved today should have a printed CO2 PPM ticket from the flue gas analyser to prove it’s burning clean and efficiently. Ask why this has not been done. What they wrote back in the day would have been rehearsed and not measured btw Standard practice back then sadly. Why is this boiler connected to the solar coil?? That is a direct deviation from the MI’s ( manufacturers installation instructions ). The solar coil, drum roll please, is for the solar to be connected to!! That’s why the recovery time is so huge, you’re heating via the wrong coil What is connected to the boiler coil? Get this is changed and then you’ll see the difference. The info you quote for 30 mins reheat ( recovery ) time will not be by anyone using the wrong coil. You also need to check that the flow temp is high enough to comply with he MI’s. Sounds like your plumber is of questionable pedigree if they’ve left this install this way and not done you a new gas cert. BTW, you’re probably not currently insured with your building insurance if this is not in your possession.

Go with what your electrician recommends, sounds like he’s belt and braces

That’s the kick-ass stuff I use to do swimming pool setups. You have learned well, my young crapprentice, and hopefully it’ll only be the knowledge that sticks

There are usually 2 blending / pump sets for each floor, so you can select the flow temp per floor ( heat crises etc ). Different emitters in the same house ( slab downstairs and aluminium plates upstairs for eg ) perform very differently so you need that function to set and commission correctly. What you have is the most basic and tbh crude system available today, which, looking by the age of the installation, is exactly what I would expect to see from an UFH install of ‘yesteryear’. The boiler will cycle up and down and never give the exact same flow temp, and that will become even more coarse / erratic as the zones start to switch of flow and the heat load becomes very low. The hysteresis of the boiler stat is not at all ideal to be used as a master control for managing the injection ( flow into the floor ) temp and I would certainly be upgrading all this if it was in a house I adopted. If this is your long term residence then I would make some improvements / updates to make the system more refined. For eg, the black manual valve that you’re using for governing the flow temp at source is wholly unreliable as it uses the differential of flow and return. Plus the yo-yo boiler flow temp to dictate its sum output, and that will be less than reliable compared to a thermostatic blending valve like the Reliance one posted earlier ( red control knob ). Two UFH manifolds sharing the output of one primary circulation pump will also suffer from imbalance of demand, as it is dynamic, and will mean certain higher resistance loops ( longer runs ) will become neglected in favour of shorter loops ( path of least resistance ) so not having pumps and blending valves on each manifold incurs a host of problems. I’ve been doing these types of installs for over 25 years now, so have a bit of an idea of what to do to improve things, if that’s what you’d like to do? Failing that, you can buy pipes stats on eBay for the price of a coffee, and stare at them as often as you like

@Dreadnaught These are the ones I use / specify now. Just had 4 of the 500mm ones fitted on my current clients project, quite a big house so a double-unit install, and the guys from CVC Systems persevered to get them in, in what can be described as a “not large” plant space under the second stairwell. Didn’t help that I also spec’d a Brink Air Comfort for heating / cooling of the open spaces and bedrooms which took up the last few mm’s of space available . I’m sure the installers will forgive me over time……

Yup. Get it ordered. That’s an order.

FYI. I had another layer of acoustic insulation installed between the posi joists before the plasterboard went on, so 150mm total between the 2 layers. For your instance, there likely won’t be much sound escaping ‘sideways’ so best focus on where the issue actually resides.

The majority of the ‘nuisance’ sound / noise will be from the water hitting the tray / floor. Acoustic insulation under there is a good idea, plus any discharge pipework can be sound deadened if over a bedroom. Current clients new build, where I used Killmat over the waste and soil pipes. Takes a lot of the high frequency noise ( sound of water tricking ) away. As I’m doing a turnkey whole of house service I know I’ll be on the hook for any “issues”, so I’ve gone belt and 2 braces on the 1st floor bathrooms and the music / piano room to keep things as ‘quiet’ as possible. 🤞

Aim the pipe at ‘er next door and shout “fire in the hole”.

Nope. Look for a longer section of 50mm silicone rubber hose and double up on the jubilee clips. Make it so, No.2. 👊

Just tighten them until you feel you aren’t really pushing or pulling on the spanner. A larger spanner will offer more torque so go with your gut feeling and pinch up afterwards if necessary. I just put a bit of spit on the rubbers of the inserts tbh.

https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/flexseal-50mm-58mm-flexible-straight-coupling?gclid=CjwKCAjwhNWZBhB_EiwAPzlhNkWMZAgml2fWx4zggaPrdhIFWmBdJI4qMMdRpPG2ATdI0qk5WPq4FBoC85oQAvD_BwE

I think I’d want a rubber coupler with say 2x stainless jubilee clips either side to do that transition. If that spigot ever shears you’re up………ahem………💩 creek.

Do they say ABS vs PVC? Or PVC? I’ve fitted a few swimming pools, and the vibration / pump pressure has commanded ABS. What pressure does the pump operator at?

They wont be “sunken” unless you have specified the posi-joists accordingly. Removing the deck board 22-24mm typical for P5 or Egger, and fitting an insert wetroom former will bring you flush to the existing floor. If you do not use the Waterguard system then you’ll need a 6mm ply binder to tile onto. Just remember to fit the same thickness ply under the former to raise it up to suit

You need more arms than Vishnu to fit it without wrinkles . Bloody sticky stuff, but ridiculously bombproof, and excellent for a 1st floor install. Get more of it if funds allow and finish the room, with upstands, to get it utterly waterproofed. Is it 610? The stuff Impey give you in a mastic tube? It is the anti-Christ of sealants, and is STILL on some old combats and STILL wet / tacky to the touch!

What material is the spigot you’re connecting on to made of?

Is this for an MVHR system, continuous airflow, or for an extractor fan, sporadic airflow?

Ahhhhh, good times Meantime, down at the ranch….. Is the output under pressure ( pumped ) or gravity? You’d be far better off with a compression 50mm connector IMHO if it’s not pumped. Solvent weld joints don’t have any ‘give’ and can fracture / break free.

You can use the uni-strut no probs there, if it bodes better, and can likely still be very rigid with no hindrance to the softener going underneath it. Be mindful that the softener is a PITA with noise created from regeneration, so do yourself a favour and but one with electronica, eg so you can dictate when it regenerates ( early hours or midday etc ). Also, note the positions of the overflow and discharge of the softener, as most I’ve fitted have had to be raised slightly off the floor to facilitate the correct ( and effective ) gravity flow away from the unit, particularly where the pipework has to run horizontally away thus lifting the height of where the 2x discharge pipes enter the waste pipework.

Ah, ok. I’m not a fan of those tbh. I use ( sometimes multiples of ) the 500mm long rigid box attenuators religiously, after not getting very good results from those flexi attenuators ( which EsaveP recommended ). Since dealing with Nick Vaisey and the team at CVC Systems, who introduced me to these a few years back, things have become markedly improved!! Client feedback on top results / inaudibility is irrefutable. Client on the aforementioned lesser-performing job wanted cheap, and she got cheap. Rumour has it that they’re filing on her land, a sequel to Silence of the lambs……”Silence of the fans”. Not done one that way since, but I am fortunate enough to be working for more discerning clientele these days ( very fortunate, touch wood ). I did one install with the 1000mm long box attenuators, that was fun getting those into a 1.2m wide plant room Consider a change to the box attenuators @Dreadnaught, as the flexis are very difficult to keep in the ‘round’ state, eg if you need to clamp or support them they just collapse under their own weight.

1) as per my previous about the bricks being laid over the concrete footing 2) Yup. They have NOT followed MI’s 3) More like MyASS certified. I doubt you’ll need to complain, just the fitters are very wet behind the ears and are chancers, fitting high-end products chasing high-end pay days. They’ll back down i expect, in the presence of the reps and your pending threats of internet shame and subsequent removal from CERTASS whilst they’re investigated.

I’ve been done again. Didn’t spot the embedded link. But had been doing a good few 16 hr days recently so asleep at the wheel sorry. I’ve been quite hungry on site a few times, but must admit I’ve never resorted to munching through an MBC passive raft!! Eaten a couple of kebabs off the pavement of course, ahhh….the good old days