Nickfromwales

Just create a stud partition wall 1200mm behind the external wall, parallel with it, with a second secure door to the house. The interior of that new space would need lining with a suitable material ( maybe uPVC cladding etc ) and air would just take the path of least resistance. Ergo the input grille would ideally be 20-30% bigger than the exhaust so you dont pull air from the dwelling. A drawing can follow, but family business awaits atm.

I've recommended doing this in sections, same way an EDPM roofer would detail a roof membrane. You don't have to go to Specsavers Bruce, they'll come to you

Ah, ok. Then you absolutely do not want to be pressurising the house with air taken from the street!! You will still have access, as the door doesn't 'go', it just becomes a transfer grille. Or, if you can, make 2x transfer grilles; 1 up high for inlet air, and a lower one for exhaust. The partition section becomes a 'wind-tunnel'.

Ah, ok. Well, they'll actually drill a hole in the wall, then insert a rawl plug, then insert a screw. So not actually a 'hole', more a penetration.

Why not partition the end of that room off and create a 'wind tunnel'? Eg with the full eternal door being a large louvre / transfer grille? Have the heat pump sucking air in through the transfer grille ( external door ) and then exhaust it back to outdoors through a second grille in the outside wall ( which connects the front of the HP to atmosphere via a sealed duct ). You then install a second door into the new partition wall to get access into the 'garage'. Your climate is 'different' to ours, but in the UK we'd certainly NOT want to be positively pressurising the dwelling with cold / damp air from atmosphere.

Put your glasses on

Assuming your going to be affixing the plasterboards with dot and dab? Or do you plan to cement coat and plaster with a full wet system?

Ok. Yup. Then the OP should say speakers, amplifiers, cables + install etc? Or are these £1k speakers?

Only if you could prove that they were the ONLY sounders, eg that the equipment relied on a 3rd party item to complete the functioning system. If the doorbell makes a noise out of the box, it's a very thin bit of ice you'd be skating on imho. Is it really worth the aggravation of an inspection for a couple of tenners?

Hi. Yes, I just installed a manifold ( like an UFH manifold ) but without the thermostatic valve. Ideally you'd have a pump on this manifold as the rads and the GF UFH will need to be hydraulically separated. Will need a small buffer or a low loss header to do this. The pipe runs from the rads manifold can be continuous runs, but will likely need to have a joint before they rise out of the floor, as the pipe will likely not have a very tight bending radius. You cannot use 10mm pipe as it's a heat pump, so 15mm minimum pipe size will be required for the flow rates to be optimal.

Not sure is the honest answer. Learning and adapting at this very moment!! Ask tech support at Drytek and see what they recommend, but AFAIC you just apply the mesh and render and it sticks like 💩 to a blanket. @nod who else does these render systems ( with BBA to go onto ICF? ) @Russell griffiths what did you use, Bruce?

I think he should. May mean his plans for the weekend go out the window, but he needs to consider our needs and really buckle down.

All of my clientele are building to passive or just below, some above ( NZEB / ZEB etc ), but you’re right to point this out for the masses reading info here. The bigger the buffer ( or buffers ) the closer to input temp you can store at. As I posted elsewhere, if there’s going to be a buffer plumbed in anyways, why not just make it a monster and load shift. Just needs to get you to midday for a cheeky bit of top-up off whatever solar is going begging.

With / without trickles?

Matters not one jot what you’re doing after, but this is the only way I will detail these junctions from hereon in. The render is just about the only thing that will stick, and STAY stuck. No good being great on the day, then gives up over the next couple of years when it’s waaaaaay too late to do anything to quick-fix this. Check with BCO and read up on manufacturers recommendation for these reveals, they should provide guidance. BCO will probably know the square root of fcuk all here, and could cause undue stress / work so take that info and choose what you do with it. FR should be a concern, as if an open flame gets to the EPS, it’s “goodbye house” at a rapid rate of knots. Not often discussed.

Again, this can be managed, but you'll need a buffer if the areas are zoned. I also am considering much bigger buffers for longer single 'burns' and storing heat created extremely cheaply from ToU. Doubt the CoP losses would be that significant in real life, given what I've witnessed to date on live installs.

It's looking quite good to me atm! May be the reason this ship has been left drifting out to sea, lol. The peel & stick is far better to use to form the 'cup' for the cill detailing imho, so yes, run with that. I have been detailing this very thing with 3 current client builds, and the consensus is to mesh and render the reveals beforehand as a belt and 2 braces approach. The render systems, as I learned recently, are just about the only thing the BBA state will adhere long-term to EPS in ICF systems and stay adhered, same basecoat which then goes externally for the rain-screen / render system. It's pointless adding things which stick or goop that needs to bond, unless the substrate will allow a robust purchase that will last the lifetime of the build, so yes, you're absolutely A1 in getting this planned ahead, meticulously. Nudura have issued this detail primarily to fire rate the internal reveals, a thing some overlook when blinded by the seemingly most pressing concern ( water ingress ) but they have issued me a statement last week stating that I could just install the mesh, then install the windows, and then render the reveals. This was a chosen path for getting a robust surface in which to apply foam and tape ( foam better than Compriband here as ICF doesn't really need deflection mitigation like a TF would ), but certainly if you could render out first, then this would give you a great surface for the peel and stick to adhere to, plus give a continuous impervious surface to the flat / bottom ( and lower edge of the sides too ) opening of the reveal. The more I see of this and the further I get involved with detailing this on behalf of folk, the more I cringe, considering what I've seen, done by others, to date. Keep plugging away, as this is one area where the devil is very much in the detail.

Just get a continuous layer of dab running the full width at 750-950mm off ToC, for the base units to be affixed to, and the same at x height to take the wall unit fixings.

Tell them the room will become a cupboard. Cap the pipes. Instruct BCO to delete it. Simples.

Devices which extract condensation have a condensate tray, this has a drain pipe, and this discharges the water to a drain. You have 1g glazing atm, or 2g ?

or unless it's mitigated against with a suitably sized buffer.

I wouldn't worry about deflection here tbh, as the weight will ne supported largely at the 4 corners. The only thing I don't like is the fact it's rather 'loosely' nailed, whereas I would have used construction screws to join this lot up. Would have helped to stiffen things up considerably.

Have you been at the cooking sherry again?

110%. MVHR here will be nigh-on useless imo. I turn these down tbh, as I know it's the wrong thing to do.

Voice-activated space heating...? Hmmmm.... "Hey, Siri. I'm sweating my bollocks off here!".