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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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+1. Needs a proper solar survey doing with the shading looking at exclusively. The lower panels may be worth sticking with, if the software states it.
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That's the kiddy.
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(expletive deleted) you. 👍
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@Wilbur1969 Use the search engine and you'll find a lorry-load of answer on this subject. Feel free to find and add to a relevant thread / topic and we can keep the library in good order
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Beware running electrical cables directly in insulation though! You need much larger ducts / conduits to run cables, or you will not evade regs requirements for de-rating a circuit or massively increasing the conductor size to allow you to run through insulation. You don't need to worry about short rises / drops though the 300mm thickness, but after 300mm horizontal for eg the regs kick in.
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Minimum height of insulation build up on concrete slab
Nickfromwales replied to seano's topic in Barn Conversions
Fabric first approach wins every single time, without exception. You design once, you insulate once, you go mad on airtightness once, and then you reap those benefits every day until you cark it. Money in the bank, in an ever changing ( worrying ) world of energy dependency. Why are our building regs standards still so utterly shite?!? -
That's for a basement though I don't like installing a skinny heated layer over a decent constructional slab as it simply turns on and off ( as a heat emitter ). Not desirable AFAIC vs the huge thermal time constant(?) you achieve from heating an entire slab. That allows you to strategically 'inject' pockets of low cost energy into the floor as a battery / heat bank and for that to slowly release heat into the home with near zero difference in temp shift ( hysteresis ). Simply night and day better IMHO. Heating a constructional slab / passive aka insulated raft is absolutely the better option, and installing a 300mm wall a-la MBC and fully pumping with cellulose is just an absolute and inarguable no-brainer ( budget allowing ). If you are time-constrained ( or impatient ) then removing all the extra labour / cost / detailing / airtight measures of a multi-discipline wall system will pay massive dividends in 'getting a wiggle on', as one MBC PH TF I was on took 31 days from a hole in the ground > passive raft > frame up and complete ( YES, 31 DAYS ) including a couple of weeks on stop for the slab to cure before the frame went on. When the stars align, I will build my own out of MBC PH TF, and develop with that or Nudura. Just waiting for a ship to come in, and then it's off developing I go . Anyone who wants quick, stress free and to have a huge amount of liability / responsibility removed should look long and hard at MBC's offering with a minimum guaranteed airtightness score of 0.6ACH to boot! Folk, some are / were on here, have had issues with MBC and them farming stuff out to sub-contractors, I'm on one that suffered this atm, but thankfully Joe took direct action and this has now been resolved. No company can say they've been 100% issue-free 100% of the time, I don't care who they are, ( or if they do then they've just been very good / clever in covering it up the trail of breadcrumbs ). DIY'ers won't want to pay the premium for a turnkey package, some will actively desire acquiring their self-build wings, so, as with anything, it's horses for courses. The choice of company and service will be down to the clients own remit.
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Well played, sir. We salute you, the whole world salutes you.
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Minimum height of insulation build up on concrete slab
Nickfromwales replied to seano's topic in Barn Conversions
Can you share where you purchased for the OP, please? And how long ago, of course, as the world's gone entirely tits-up over the last few years. -
Minimum height of insulation build up on concrete slab
Nickfromwales replied to seano's topic in Barn Conversions
My wife is the same. I go to the shops and open her text for the shopping list and just stand there asking myself WTF half the things are on the list. When she calls out what they are, it's spelt how she thinks the words sound. Then I say "oh, yea". -
Flush pipe keeps leaking due to un-even floor
Nickfromwales replied to Dan1983's topic in General Plumbing
Can you get a pic of the offending item? -
Have a sliding pocket door from utility to WC. Bob's your Uncle and Fanny's your Aunt. Thank me with beer.
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Minimum height of insulation build up on concrete slab
Nickfromwales replied to seano's topic in Barn Conversions
Where have you been getting prices? -
Ask BCO about this, and if there is any need for buttresses etc. The steel may be able to have tongues on it to allow fixing the wall and the steel together mechanically, which may help retain max GIA.
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Minimum height of insulation build up on concrete slab
Nickfromwales replied to seano's topic in Barn Conversions
Whats your VAT status? -
Minimum height of insulation build up on concrete slab
Nickfromwales replied to seano's topic in Barn Conversions
240m2 / 2.88 ( an 8x4 sheet ) = 83 sheets for minimum advised thickness of 150mm of insulation. 83 x £75 = £5,810 for 150mm of kingspan / cellotex ( you may get cheaper using seconds / damaged boards ). Then you'll need prob 120mm of RC35 concrete, laid in sections with expansion joints, with reinforcing / anti-crack mesh, and then UFH pipes get zip=tied to the mesh prior to the pour. You'll need sand blinding, then 25mm of EPS as a sacrificial layer, then the DPM, plus some perimeter insulation skirting ( 30mm PIR ). Not inconsequential amounts of money / labour as that's a big old floor! -
Minimum height of insulation build up on concrete slab
Nickfromwales replied to seano's topic in Barn Conversions
200mm of XPS or 300mm of EPS ( much cheaper but you need to cost for the extra excavations / muck-away then ) so I'd go with 200mm of rigid which will be around Passiv standards. 300mm unnecessary. -
If you post a plan, folk here can make suggestions Where the door and window(?) are etc will affect the design / layout.
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That low a temp is only feasible if you have a large / over-sized hot water cylinder, of course. Possibly set to 50oC at the outset and see how you manage with that temp / capacity.
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So, how much does it cost to create more DHW, and how much do you get for each exported unit? The immersion, if you set the thermostat that low ( eg you set it to 48oC but clearly it is factory set atm (?)), is not going to be on all the time and you'll then revert to exporting the surplus? Simples. Just tweak the stat, but no lower than 45oC!! DHW should be the No.1 priority for diversion, so you need to preserve that before considering exporting, however if you can buy electricity back in cheaper than the export then that's a different thing and you then need to add a timer to the immersion to select when you heat the hot water. Not sure what these tariffs offer, but the principles above can be applied either way.
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To Tank or not to Tank? bathroom advice required
Nickfromwales replied to TryC's topic in Building Materials
Yup, lol, let me show you to the exits
