Nickfromwales

If it is the flow of the central heating then you would have to isolate the flow AND the return as they are one common body of water. Also, doing this will render the boiler unusable for heating, and may affect hot water production too. Unless you can confirm the drip is between the boiler and the isolation tap, and not between the radiators and the isolation tap, then isolating the boiler wont stop the drip. Give them one email as a written warning that you will get your own plumber, and that if you are not seen to within 48 hrs then you will pay the 3rd party plumber yourself, get the issue fixed, and then that you will deduct their bill from the next rent payment.

You can stop paying rent until this is fixed. Just photograph the boiler leaking, and meticulously document the correspondence between yourself and others. Send everything via email or message. When the money stops going out you will need to have it to hand to make the arrears payments immediately upon the issue being resolved.

Says 12cm depth, so yup, you're into a bigger stud I'm afraid. Or send it back. You just bin the Geberit stuff and put a normal pan connector onto the pan

FYI, I bond the vertical 4x2's to the frame and drill into the metal ( long 3mm pilot drill ) so the frame supports the timber and vice versa. By the time you combine this, drilling 40mm holes low down in the stud isn't ever a problem ( drill dead centre ). @jayc89, Why not exit the building with the 2x 40mm pipes before you strike the 2 x 4x2's closest to the frame? Then boss them onto the soil pipe externally ( if not too 'ugly' / in plain sight )?

Just double up the studs that you need to drill through, and you can stay at 4" They do one which goes into a 100mm stud wall https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/geberit-slimline-114cm-wall-hung-wc-frame-with-sigma-8cm-cistern Cheaper elsewhere.

I think a lot of DNO's are now fitting 3ph heads regardless, in an attempt to start some smarter thinking / future-proofing. You can have 1, 2 or 3 phases connected, depending upon your connected loads / if you want oodles of PV / rapid 3ph EV charger etc.

It's called "covering ones arse so one cannot possibly fail".

All depends where the CT clamps reside?

Defo stainless ring-shank. How many times do you need to remove? Plus, this will be captive, so the lot would have to come off, up to the point you needed access. If you ever need to remove a plank, just use a pin-punch to drive the nail all the way through and out the back of the plank to release it.

Go back and challenge. This is nonsense, sorry !!

This can all be achieved with a posi-joist deck tbh. I have installed many, been around loads, have installed UFH atop, tiled atop and for all uses of spaces ( bedroom / other ) with ZERO squeaks and ZERO issues with deflection. You will get deflection, but not anything where you will stop and make a note of it ( if you install the posi's properly and reinforce with stiffer joists and never more than 400mm o/c's. I do nothing other than help create forever homes for private self-build clients, so failure is defo not an option, quite the opposite. B&B is massive overkill AFAIK.

+1 to no upper floor(s) insulation ( other than acoustic if necessary / mandated by BCO ).

+1. "Airtightness, airtightness, airtightness". Ventilation heat loss is the killer, fabric heat loss comes second. If you manage airtightness then the heating issue becomes easily manageable ( in a true low-energy dwelling ). I took 3 days for my current clients PH to drop 2.7oC after I set the ASHP to 15oC flow temp!! Clients stated that the property was a bit too warm to work in ( sweeping / tidying up etc ) at circa 19.0oC on the central room stat! That's without the MVHR fired up yet, and the doors opening and closing all day long with trades in / out. Did I mention airtightness?

What's the U value of the Isotex wall? I can't remember off hand.

Have you run this again, using a different supplier and 92mm radial ductwork? Punching smaller ( sub 100mm ) holes in steels before they're delivered to site is a doddle, and I do it for most of my M&E clients tbh. For 120mm holes ( penetrations ) you can still do this and just plate / reinforce the steels by design from your SE. Would save 2x plant rooms for MVHR ( if that bothers you or not of course? ). Your EC should be screaming "fabric first" from the rooftops. See above. Nice! Defo a good candidate for ICF too. The insulated slab will likely need a lamination atop, of UFH in screed? If PH ( or as near as damnit ) then I'd say that it would be pointless to insulate > UFH > screed, and I'd just allow the heat to 'soak' into the insulated concrete as a bity of a heat capacitor.

Is this because the system designer has defaulted to series-run 125mm ducting ( or larger ) everywhere? I've recently installed a heatpump for an Insulhub client in Oxford, and that is a 7kW unit in a medium sized 3 bedroom dwelling. It very rarely gets above 4-5kW output and that was in the utter depth of winter. To hear you will need this size of HP must mean you're building a much larger property or not going fully airtight etc? Has your EC dictated any of these target values to justify the sizing? I am assuming you are going with UFH in an insulated raft foundation, as Jamie and the gang did in Oxford. That slab is performing ridiculously well btw.

Thanks @Temp Seems that continuous mode uses either comfort or economy temps, and doesn't actually shut off. I expect having DHW and a HRC running when in residence has masked this occurrence. Case closed. "Watson, fetch me my pipe!".

Er, no? If no WC'p sensor, it would default to continuous as it could not be commissioned. It would show an error code if trying to select WC'p mode, Shirley? Albeit, yesterday was a bit of a blur.

If there is no call for heat, the 0v or 230v signal would drop and the boiler would go into pump overrun and then go into standby? If it’s a system boiler.

Continuous operation as I read it in your screenshot means it just doesn’t attenuate flow temp a-La weather comp. Not that the boiler ( heat generator ) would run continuously? Was there a WC’p outside sensor installed also when the boiler was installed? If not, then that’s why it’s set to that. I would have thought room temp setting would have been the one, with the room stat dictating this? FYI, I’ve never worked on / been around an install for one of these.

@Tennentslager Yup. Defo swap to solvent where you’re half in / out of the wall. You need some sort of rubber / flexible connection on the discharge side, immediately before it picks up the solvent weld. Don't forget to clean that pipe before you pick it back up in solvent weld, as that will be contaminated now.

Ok. So you’ll only need one manifold here. Can you explain the above a bit better please? 😊

Breakout behind? Not in front ( which is what I am saying to avoid. Surface is cosmetic, but the plasterboard behind is the functional bit. I think that’s the bit the Gripit people offer / say to use? That’s due to the size / splay of the Gripit wings, me thinks.

Put the drill on very high speed. Drill a small hole, then a larger and then the final, without pushing on the drill whatsoever. If the plasterboard blows out behind, then these fixings won't hold very well.

Have you wiped both sides to confirm this is inside the glass 'sandwich'?