Nickfromwales

How can this be true? If there’s no spares then you’ve zero other choice? Y branch cut in to existing run, a single socket 135° bend into that, and take the branch off to pick up the ACO. Standard practice tbf, and even if you did this with a foul connection it would still work perfectly well.

It won’t end up overheating if they turn the flow temp to a couple of degrees over the room stat set point. Can’t happen. I’ve been around enough of these types of projects to know this isn’t an issue, just lots of people like the complex math behind it all and then still just come up with the same conclusion. This really isn’t rocket science at all tbh, any any seasoned (and directly experienced) M&E consultant or ‘heating engineer’ (not the ones on their mothers side) should be able to just look at this holistically and call it. If it’s going to be an MCS certified job then it’ll just be about ticks going into boxes, and then the system fettled afterwards to perform to suit the dwelling based on real life experience in the actual address, and the occupants feeding back to the installer after a full 12 months of occupancy. Tick boxes don’t take the occupants own quirks or preferences into account, imho these are the most important factor but often get overlooked.

It's whatever someone (usually a salesperson) can convince someone else of what it is. A client (spoiled brat 2nd wife of a wealthy old chap) bought an £1800 vanity unit (no basin and no tap) and a £400 extension drawer set to go on the end. 15mm chipboard, and probably £200 of materials / soft close drawer runners / labour involved. By the time there was a sink on top and a tap, the 'sink' had cost near to £4k. Just picking the drawer front up broke the corner off it, terrible design where the mouth of the unit and the drawer front were 45'd and then became ultra thin on the leading edges. Thin vinyl veneer (black) and light chipboard, so any chip or mark was instantly visible. Utter dogshit, and I've bought better off eBay for a 1/5th of the price. Said brat was told by the salesman that is was a high spec blah blah, and she told her new husband to stump up or life would be hellish. After a bit more shopping she'd blown nearly £18k on a bathroom suite and enough tiles to do 1/3 of the walls and floor. Most of it was available online for prob half the price or less, but she wanted the retail therapy and putting on a pedestal, so off they went to be robbed blind in broad daylight with a huge smile on (her) face. The other side of the coin is my sensible clients who want value for money, but not "cheap", so when I explain higher spec systems that come in more expensive than other quotes they have had independently, from their own due diligence, they see where the extra money has gone and appreciate the improvements in quality / longevity / comfort / etc and are then happy to pay the uplift between my quote and the ones they have; most systems are bean-counted to be competitive, so are quite vanilla in terms of initial offerings as most know they're competing against others who have priced off the same plans. The 3rd side of the coin is the minority who ignore my advice and reasoning, go for cheap as they are insistent they have done their own investigations (with no industry experience or actual real life knowledge) and then complain when the uninformed choices they made have backfired and cost more / delivered less etc. To these people who think they know better, I say "fill yer boots".....no skin off my nose!

Shouldn't they be providing input? If they can't you need better installers!?!

https://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-round-central-reducer-white-125-100mm/10684 You can buy duct tape, or get the large jubilee clips. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kair-Metal-Hose-Clip-125mm/dp/B07ZPGVH4L/ref=asc_df_B07ZPGVH4L?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989677905430&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=42064&hvtargid=pla-4583589145554366&msclkid=eb0a5ca7b18819f05a0835004d2084ce&th=1

My 5.5L V8 GLS 63 makes the same wonderful noise and is a lot quicker than 6.6 secs. Surprising that's as slow as it is for a hybrid, but I bet it's dialled down in the factory and is capable of much quicker; I expect they stop utter and outright abuse of the battery and drive train to promote longevity and reduce early failure etc.

I doubt you'll be able to use that much insulation with a screed. You'll be removing a lot of volume of screed and by the look of where you pinch points are, you'll likely just have to leave them uninsulated. It won't matter one little tiny bit btw, so my advice is to step away from micro-managing this to death and accept that the flow temps will simply be so low you won't even know the UFH is on . If you have any pre(mis)conception of having hot sections of floor where the pipes group together, then you're going to be proven pleasantly wrong, as it just doesn't. Losing such large volumes of screed at very localised areas, especially at entrances to rooms etc, will be a bad idea and is something I actively avoid, so the way the pipes are bunched up are a bit daft and not how I'd lay it out. Living room should be fed from the utility and the pipes for those two loops taken under the partition stud wall, as that deletes 4 pipes from the first lot of congestion. Yes, people "frown" on pipes going under partitions, but the reality is zero ill effect as you're stuck to this project like velcro and can mitigate against any misadventure. Entrance hall needs to be completely reconfigured, that's just silly. Pipes can then be spaced equidistantly in the double doorway leading into the kitchen / open plan room. Close, but no cigar I'm afriad.

Modern plastic aka push fit pipe just doesn’t suffer like copper does regarding condensation. Quite an odd thing.

Ya. Less material = lower production costs.

Is this built yet?

Yup, but the materials now. A good few have refused temporary disabled access ‘ramps’ but I think you’d be ok with compacted type1 and some pavers either side. Will be there a while I guess.

Probably failed, so it won’t hold the pressure your putting in. Are you 100% sure you’re getting air into it? I assume you know the cold mains needs to be off and at least one hot tap open to do this?

That, and to reduce the amount of material used in manufacture, to bean-count.

"I'm not a smart man, Jenny"

FFS

If I’m buying an HRC pump, and fitting it, with power and controls, then I’d be using it to its fullest advantage. Not just using it for one single outlet (if a new build and you can get insulted HRC pipework in with ease anyways). Get the basins and kitchen sink on the HRC and you’ll never look back.

It’s called trying to help. Can’t say we didn’t try.

Ask the stair company to encompass this so the interface with the stairs is seamless?

“Use the force, Luke……”

Yup. I use it all the time, totally different beast. The only control you need with foam is your trigger finger. Part fill voids, walk away, add more as necessary. After a few trial runs you’ll become one with the foam and wastage / trimming will be minimal; don’t expect to not have to do at least some trimming etc, obvs.

just cut it after it dries?

Yes, he gave an interesting stab at us over that foolish assumption. Who’s have known the cooker and cooking utensils lived outside. I was going to post this, but I fear someone may like it and then I’ll get bullied for that. He has a heating system, it works, it won’t get used. At least the house will dry out in the summer. 🤐

Can be cleaned as you go if just using PVA?

You won’t see the ply as the rest of the floor covering comes up way higher than that. You’re very brave putting SLC straight down onto the chipboard, but if someone says they’ll warranty the job without even a 3.6mm (aka 4mm) ply binder then it’s on their head I guess. I’ve never laid anything directly onto particle boards, ever, but I have had lots of insurance work from others who did so.

Have a look at the Grundfos Comfort pump folks. "Most", maybe, which means you need to spend more time looking and reading Manifolds at the plant room only. This is how you delete the large bore dead legs at source. If you have "manifolds everywhere" then these will need to be fed from 22mm and will be the opposite to the solution of reducing dead legs.