Nickfromwales

Same kind of stuff I linked above, just a cheaper brand

https://www.bes.co.uk/class-o-adhesive-tape-black-3mm-x-50mm-x-15m-17548/ A bit of this both sides/around, and then nail clip the pipes. Then fill over. It’s not the best things to chase a wall and bury pipes, but I’ve done it so many times I’ve lost count. Heat will leak into the wall, but a comet may also hit planet earth and kill us all, so decide if a neat room is important and accept the compromise afaic

1.5mm would be plenty at such low consumption. 1.5 carries 18amps give or take. You need less than half an amp or so.

If different brands do exactly the same size, yes. If not……..

I'm a fan of that floor also. Much warmer looking room tbh, so that's a silver lining to your cloud afaic

5kW?

Giving the sizes of the ducts would help I have offcuts of the green Ubbink 92mm (that's all I've used for the last 5+ years) if anyone needs internal/external diameter etc?

I'll do it for £40 lol. These beers just don't buy themselves!!

A single check will be quite short, a double check longer and with a hex nut for service (in the majority of cases). Defo try what I suggest and eliminate that is my 2 cents.

Copper is the ultimate, but I would feel bad not covering the plumbers time if he's not done anything wrong (at least some beer money if nothing else).

I’ve been doing this for 30+ years chief, do as the wise Welshman says lol. 😜

It’s down to knowing how much heat the UFH is going to actually deliver. Kitchens are the worst as there’s a lot of redundant floor area covered by units etc. Suspended floors just need as much of, the best insulation you can afford, but also for you to foam everywhere that allows draughty airflow eg around the skirting board etc. 2’ of insulation in a room with an open window means the room will never get to temp, as cold air infiltration (and the resultant convection loss of any heated air) will render the UFH useless (at full power) in a second. Wunda will cost the whole thing for you. Simples!

If a rotary pipe “slice” was used to cut the pipe then it would already have turned the end of the pipe inwards, removing any abrupt shoulder that is often the cause of a damaged rubber o ring. If the old joint was desoldered then defo would need a good clean back to copper and the burrs removing. That all assumed ok, as it’s going to leak from day 1 if so damaged, then you can relax. Hep2O stuff is excellent for quality, robustness, and an effective long-term solution here. Where did the leak come from then? The radiator valve?

Is the non return on the UVC hot outlet a single check or double check? I’d look at that next as these tend to be quiet with lots of flow/pressure and noisy with lower values. May be the ‘groan’ off that tbh.

Ok, but don’t use mortar, it’s crap, use flexible tile adhesive instead. Cement is way to friable, and will just disintegrate over time removing any support you assumed it would provide long term. If you can fit / cut a paving slab then cement board should be a doddle?! Again, use tile adhesive regardless not mortar for bedding those too.

Defo lose timber any time you can. Build up with tile adhesive and cement board vs batten and plywood is my recommendation, and live a long happy (leak free) life. 👍

I just recommended Gordon from Bridgend (iirc) who does a lot of MBC Timberframe’s insulation work. He blows all the cellulose stuff in. For PIR / other sheet insulation try Seconds&Co for big discounts on nearly perfect but ‘seconds’ insulation materials. Spoke to their chap at the NSBRC weekend event and they said they can also supply insulated plasterboard too. ”Save money on your insulation, buy more beer”……sign me up!!!

I'd have told him to Go FHS

9/10 it was the £2 relay that opened the gas valve, but even though I could go get one from Maplin I just couldn't take the risk of a secondary fault at (then) my expense for the same PCB.

Firstly, what’s a hefty call-out fee? The PCB is usually a prime candidate at 10+ years with a combi, so nothing terrifying there. Why was a refurbished board fitted?! Usually not cost-effective tbh. The PRV started passing for a reason, so did they check the pre-charge pressure in the expansion tank when they replaced that part to be sure it’s not just put a band-aid on it? Any grants for a free boiler replacement in that area?

You can cut them and go that route, but best to get your BCO's input to see how much overlap and the number of fixings they'd "like to see" used. In honesty, an overlap of 100mm past the face of the supporting structure in each direction should suffice, with a bolted connection, but best to ask first and execute once

Yup. For heating, via thermal storage, you can directly heat the circulating water with a big immersion and use that to bolster/reduce oil consumption (basically by it being seen as an electrical inline heater of sorts), and that will have some benefit of introducing cheap there direct electricity to space heating, but for a domestic heating scenario in a poorly insulated 2-storey home the least capacity TS I’ve installed for bulk stowage is 2600L. That was storing at 85°C to be anywhere close to being useful/effective and to have sufficient sustain. A 300-500L storage tank heated to 85°C would be drained to a useless temp in an hour or two.

Copper, where it's the plant room or where the pipe is exposed and mechanical damage/aesthetics are important, every damn day of the week. Everywhere else, Hep2O is the weapon of choice. JG Speedfit still remains my go-to for pressure testing/temporary hook-ups, but tbh......a fitting which slowly undoes itself over time is not something that really instills confidence. I go to sites where folk have used this stuff for welfare setups etc, and each and every joint has begun to undo, and none have the 'obligatorily forgotten' circlip fitted which sends a cold shivver down my spine of how many of these are installed in homes and are ticking timebombs....? Put a Hep2O fitting together, do the same with JG, and have a look for yourself as to the difference. Night and day IMHO.

The only member of my household that gets a bath EVERY night lol.

+1. Bigger tank, lower temps, less losses, no brainer.