Nickfromwales

Amen!! Instant cool then too, so twice the bang for the same buck. 😎 Would make it more attractive to prospective tenants then too.

I think anything that allows one to stick 2 fingers up to the grid brings a huge amount of satisfaction. We've had clients who will spend £10k, for a system that's guaranteed for 10 years, they know they'll get less than 10% RoI, and they still say yes please (as long as they're not negative at the end). I do however feel that the electricity market will soon lend itself further towards the consumer, plus when V2G comes (probably closer than we think) then the rules will flip again. The heart wants what the heart wants, end of, and I doubt anyone who's critical of these maths here would stand in the road screaming at Bentley owners saying "A Nissan Micra would have been a cheaper and wiser choice, Sir!". We know it, they know it, just get on with your lives and let the Bentley guy enjoy his drive. Let's assume that, for the purpose of context, it was a sunny day and it was a Bentley convertible

Thanks. I usually quote 13-15% losses so about where you summarised it. That's the reason I'm such a fan of hybrids tbh. I doubt I will ever specify another true AC coupled inverter as it just doesn't seem to make any sense whatsoever (to me, anyways!).

It does depend on where the footings start / finish (depths) of course, but as any general builder will just regurgitate the same shart they used on the last 40 jobs, I'd take everything they say with a pinch or 3 of salt. Firstly, they should ONLY comment after conducting a survey, and that involves pulling some flooring up and getting a tape and possibly a shovel out. The depth would be made up with layers of insulation, so no need to import huge amounts of logistically difficult hardcore etc, just a base layer of type1, a sand blinding to get you snooker table flat and level, and then use cheaper EPS for bulk build up and finish with PIR (minimum 140mm). Set the top of that to be FFL -75-80mm for dry screed (relatively slow response from UFH), or -50mm for liquid screed (quicker response for 'timed on - off' of heating). Unless he has used a calculator to work out differing costs for different heating methodology, has asked you how long you'll be in the property for, has worked out heating requirements per annum, and then added the value to you as the owner re floorplans and benefits thereof, then how the feck would he know what is economical or not?! BCO will only be interested in the damp proof course, and the amount of insulation, but you should exceed what they ask for as UK building regs is dire on a good day. They'll 'maybe' be interested in you preserving airflow to the other ventilated floor spaces, so maybe it would help if you uploaded some floorplans showing these areas vs others etc.

Is nobody assuming discharge losses? If you have a hybrid then this is far improved, but if you have an “AC coupled” battery then you go, DC from panels converts to AC in the Inverter Then that AC goes into a breaker in the CU The battery is connected by its breaker in the CU Then AC goes into the battery BMS That converts to DC to charge the battery Then the DC in the battery returns back to AC in the BMS for consumption or export For a summer pattern that’s 3x conversions, and a long round trip and defo more than 10% lost there Delete conversion 1 and jump to 3 if this is your winter pattern / maths. But still more than 10% Are members here quoting this from stated figures or from the actual sum of the round trip from actual, real life (live) data? Genuine question btw as I’m about to change my planned system (and install more) and hoped my maths here wasn’t wonky.

Maybe consider doing the same cheat, but instead of the timbers you can use resilient bars? That will tighten up the joists, just enough (you don't need to go mad), and offer a '2-birds 1 stone' upgrade and gain some additional acoustic control.

This is a pic of my current MBC TF project, and this shows the counter-battens that MBC installed, perpendicular to the joists above (hidden by the membrane but you can see where the membrane is quilted where it was first stapled to them). This extra 'bracing' is achieved just as simply as affixing 25x50mm counter-battens (larger of the 2 two common roofing battens) to the underside of the bottom chord. There's zero rocket-science

Option 3; Rip the floor joists out and convert away from a ventilated floor in that room. The current direction for cross-flow of air would need to be considered, eg would filling in this area stop airflow to other spaces? If not, it's bye-bye joists and hello fully filled floors with insulation and screed.

Even better....🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Use one of the storage facilities? Short contract, or agree a deal for longer term.

Conversely I would recommend going with factory made ends, as these will resist moisture etc better. The tool will costs as much as the ready-made cable

...which is just bloody lunacy!?!

There's a big difference between being tight and being homeless. For the record, keep paying your mortgage, ok!!

They’ll still help a little, but the attic trusses are a slightly different beasts!

This makes a world of difference for deflection, and I try to do this on every posi-joist'd project. Tres Bien.

Isn't the norm to just increase the overlap slightly to run with the slightly lessened pitch? From 40 to 35 is nothing afaik, so I'd say this is fine. Just go with the increased overlap for belt and braces?

When I was installing kitchens, the top oven usually sat on two metal L-brackets and not the wood shelf we can clearly see in the pics. That would lower the top oven and create a new problem at the top of that though. 🤷‍♂️

https://www.amazon.co.uk/World-Data-Cat6-Network-Premium-Ethernet/dp/B002K75KCE/ref=sr_1_16?crid=1JPJOY1MI3C6E&keywords=5m+external+patch+cable+white&qid=1687196419&sprefix=5m+external+patch+cable+white%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-16 Just change it if / when it dies. Will probably last for years tbh.

Amazon sell ready made outdoor patch cables in various lengths. I bought a load to install temporary WAP's on my current project as the mobile signal was dire or non-existent. They have been stood on, left out in all weathers, and everything else in-between. Still worked after over 18 months of that.

In a weeks time this will be a very different situation. Just reassure yourself and SWMBO that this chap is not going to come through your door, that’s not going to happen. I strongly doubt you’ll ever see this person ever again, unless the police ask you to identify him. Update us on what they say when they give you some feedback.

Acting in self-defence is a reaction. Buying a taser and waiting for this chap to come back is pre-meditated, eg you'll be off to jail in a heartbeat. How long you spend there will depend on whether this individual has an underlying health issue (pacemaker etc) and you've inadvertently killed him. Stand down with the Charles Bronson approach!! If all he did was shout and try to intimidate you then it shows he's just got a screw loose and is highly unlikely to take this any further. After the red mist subsides, most episodes become water under the bridge. Take some time to reflect on what went on, and realise this was a case of mistaken identity and not a result of something you did (unless the Uber driver cut this guy up and you were there for him to vent at?). Building gates higher is something to do to protect you against creeper burglaries and trespassers, but they don't shout and scream, they work in near silence. This guy was clearly just a showman, as anyone seriously pissed off and after revenge wouldn't have spoken to you other than to say "have this", upon where you'd have received a swift smack to the chops, or 2. The only issue here is (setting aside emotional upset and you both having to eventually 'get over this') if he comes back to vandalise your property / vehicles. I'd just buy a couple of cheap battery Ring cameras and a outdoor POE WAP, cabled through a window which you can then just close over the cable, and run those for a month or so until this anxiety subsides. Which it will. It's just raw right now as this has clearly shaken both of you up badly. After days, then weeks, then months of nothing happening you'll realise this was just a one-off altercation that shouldn't have happened. The police will 100% pursue this chap through his reg number, so also await their response. They may even suggest restorative measures, where they accompany this guy to your house / you meet at the police station etc for you to discuss it on neutral grounds and to allow both parties to speak. Once you offer assurance that you couldn't have possibly done anything to this chap he will then have to apologies and then you won't have such anxiety any longer. He will then be bound over to keep the peace or charged and put in front of a judge, you'll likely be asked to decide as you'll have to press charges when he is tracked down. Possibly after speaking to him you may decide that him being bound over would suffice.

Battery powered Ring cams are quick and simple to install, but tbh won’t deter someone like this individual. At the level that escalated to, you just want evidence / clear footage so the police can support robustly. Was this a case of mistaken identity? Have you ever met / seen this individual before? People who are highly emotionally charged are often irrational and their actions become entirely indiscriminate. This person left in their car and then came back again?

Get temp readings at the manifold that services that area. See if the return pipe is warmer than the flow.

@Mr Blobby Have a day off mate!! Why do you think you need to cool a small area over the kitchen!? Yup.

If no shower door / screen, then be sure to fit hardwood door linings / architraves etc and paint them if so required. They all need to be sat into a fat bead of CT1 and then you'll not suffer any degradation of the timberwork.