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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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Yup. It would be better if the buffer could stay within the heated envelope, but it does come with quite an excellent insulated jacket. You'll need to insulate the pipework very well of course, but losses should be minimal.
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The reason I ask is that mist systems are far less impactful too. Around the same price point too.
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That stuff is straight from the deepest depths of hell. Iirc Impey or Wedi sell it for sealing around their wet room shower formers and it is just such a PITA to remove from yourself, your tools, your hair (when you forget it’s on your hands and you scratch your head, pondering how to get your Stanley knife down from the ceiling after trying to shake it out of your hands and it flies off), and anything else it touches. Fantastic stuff as a product, but what a bastard of a thing in every other respect, as it literally NEVER cures.
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Toshiba Estia 300L heat pump cylinder
Nickfromwales replied to eniacs's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
There are heat pumps which are capable of chucking out over 75°C temp water, so maybe this is a bit of inventive (albeit misleading) labelling by the manufacturer, vs a ‘lie’. -
I would, personally, forgo the IWI and EWI, and just employ a 300mm(or more) twin-wall, a-la MBC ( Larsen?), and kill a few birds with one stone. The electrical and plumbing 1st fix become a ball-ache if the service battens have insulation between them. I was having this exact conversation with Adam yesterday, and, IF, I have successfully worn him down sufficiently, this project will see 50mm timbers tagged onto internal face of the 400mm I-beams to allow for 450mm of Warmcell in the frame; negating any IWI or EWI whatsoever. Labour costs, time, and materials costs should be significantly reduced with this approach, so I will be happy to see where these talks end up. Every day is a school day, so I am happy to be educated
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Toshiba Estia 300L heat pump cylinder
Nickfromwales replied to eniacs's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Heat pump coils are typically north of 3m2 area. This looks like a split, so the delivery is via the F-gas? -
Plus the costs of a retro-upgrade to 3ph end-of-line equipment. It would make zero sense to retro-fit, so decide now, or forever hold my peace.
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Any detail for ANY part of the build is down to; The individual(s) you select to undertake the work Their (proper) understanding of what you wish to achieve Their ability to execute the work to the required standard. Their tenacity; to research, learn, adapt & overcome. This is why I am a very busy bunny, as I cannot do a bad job and the results I attain speak for themselves. You can build your house with broken pallets, it matters not one bit, as long as the person in charge of AT detailing actually give a feck. Anything can be achieved if you employ the right people. The products, and installation instructions, are available at glance, so educate yourself as to how these need to be implemented, or employ someone to act on your behalf. The best diligence is your own
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He says he wants a zero before he snuffs it. He'll probably die with a roll of AT tape in his hand. If anyone is looking for risk mitigation, I very much doubt you'll find a guy with more integrity than Adam. He can also stick-build in sites with zero access, which is a huge USP. I have already recommended him to one of my new clients from the Build It Live show at Bicester, as they have a difficult site. I told Adam, he said "Thanks", LOL. I am sure that, deep down, he enjoys the adversity
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I was on site with Adam yesterday. He's Wilkinson Passiv Homes now IIRC. https://wilkinsonpassivhomes.co.uk/ Great guy, excellent work ethic, and cries himself to sleep if he doesn't get an airtight score that's under 0.2 ACH , (which he does, btw). I am looking forward to working with him on our clients new PH certified build, where I was getting more orange by the minute laying the bloody UFH pipes over fresh rusty rebar (😭).
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Have you checked to see if you can use a mist system vs a sprinkler system? You'd need to cross-reference BS9991 over BS8458. I can't recite it, but worth at least asking as it'll do away with 1x 32mm pipe if so.
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LINK Select 25 or 50L option as required.
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Yup. No issues there, but why not install a buffer now? These can be compact and fit into tight places. This one’s a 50L wall mounted version.
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Sorry for the digression, but how did you arrive at this size? Is it a new, insulated and airtight dwelling? The quotes seem very favourable, do they include the whole job or have you asked them to remove the contestable works already?
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Is it worth power trowelling a garage floor
Nickfromwales replied to joe90's topic in General Flooring
A cheap A2A unit would give all the heat and cool you’d need tbh, and with a CoP of 3 or above Instant hit for as long as you need it on, plus it can be set for anti-frost, if the contents are precious. -
I almost always keep the zone valves at the heat source, as it’s just easier to valve downstream of them and isolate locally for service / replacement. They’re just a gate, so it doesn’t really matter where you locate them, they just arrest flow. Option 1 gets the 👍
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Hi John. It’s relatively easy to do, just have a second pair of hands when you uncoil the ductwork as it needs to be completely laid out and untwisted. Then it’ll need at least one extra pair of hands to feed it into the house. Install the soil and waste pipes first, as they take presidency over the MVHR. Have you doubled up runs to the furthest bedrooms? Have you allowed for attenuation?
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Is it worth power trowelling a garage floor
Nickfromwales replied to joe90's topic in General Flooring
I was saying that 25 years ago, so I could pinch the 1750cc engine to drop into my 1275GT mini. -
Is it worth power trowelling a garage floor
Nickfromwales replied to joe90's topic in General Flooring
Old school will always give results. -
Not with those numbers! Was more a question than a suggestion, as I have a number of new clients who will likely adopt Luxone or Control 4, so I'm just doing a bit of mining tbh. For anyone with no home automation, it may serve them better to run a lower Wm2 mat as it will need less focus on accurate control.
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Just unsure if it's actually fit for purpose? Solvent weld is all I've ever used / recommended, as it dissolves the plastics and "welds" the 2 mating surfaces together. FWIW, I cannot recall reading here and this being said, but that doesn't mean I didn't, I just cannot recall. Chillax, it's just an online forum where folk say stuff.
