Nickfromwales

Is it an insulated raft or B&B?

Yup, and Yup

3 shredded wheat time for you, lol. If you look at the pic I posted, I made brackets up from 25x5mm steel flat bar (drilled and tapped for the cylinder brackets to be affixed) and screwed the lot into the structure. That's going nowhere fast! Just remember to install the unions before you wall-mount it!

I bolted the Panasonic's down to a concrete plinth and used solid copper, zero issue, and I mean 0.00000. I fitted anti-freeze valves to the most recent one, and used glycol on the one before that. Why would you think these are going to split? I assume freezing conditions?

That hanger system seems to have made the job easier than with timber. Quite pleasing on the old OCD, lol.

That sucks!

Is this on an S-plan or Y-plan (2x 2-port zone valves or 1x 3-port) and does this service space heating as well as DHW? Sounds to me like a wiring or programming issue perhaps, but certainly a quirky issue. Have you tried restoring factory settings and reprogramming the controls?

Have you bought the flexis?

Don't get "the wrong end of the stick", but "suck it and see"?

I wouldn't ever design for that, as most of my clients will be in reverse with the heat pump, providing cooling The heating of bathroom floors which are tiled is far from madness, as whilst showering at 38-40oC (or more if you're a woman with asbestos instead of skin) then stepping onto a floor at 20oC will feel adversely cool / cold. Some people do not want that, some don't care, which is why I ask each of my clients how they live, what their needs, wants & wishes are, and I make their home the way they want it. There is no right or wrong, just what people want, and there's over 14,000 people on here

I assume that house was there first, and the land around it sold, but the owner of this house stayed put?

Yup. +1.

In summer this will be nuisance heat anywhere other than the bathrooms, so for "chill removal" with tiled floors outside the heating season it's electric or nowt. All components would have to be potable quality, and this would need to be like a hot return HRC arrangement? By the time you factor in slaughtering your ASHP to save a few £, it just doesn't make any sense to me at all (even when excluding the cost of the labour, equipment and downstream maintenance to facilitate this).

That's mandatory for every job I do, as I cannot risk 3rd party injury. Self-builders can burn their own toes, but I cannot FYI, nearly every single UTH controller will come with a floor probe, certainly all the Warmup stuff does. It would be daft not to install this tbh, and they supply a small conduit for the probe to be replaced retrospectively.

A 240W mat will probably give you overshoot tbh, I'd stick at 100-150W max. Nothing will melt as you need to cap the floor temp at 27oC max anyways, and if you're anywhere near 27 then you've done something VERY wrong. Electric mats don'y usually turn on/off, they usually go from one temp to another (comfort & economy / aka setback) so maybe just allow them to cool to (x)oC instead of down to frost setting? If you have PV the maths (running costs with using setback temp vs "off") won't be too uncomfortable. FF bathrooms yes, just electric. GF with slab go for both afaic, as electric mats are cheap enough to install, less controller if you insist, and then retro-fit the controls later if so necessary. Always separates the miserly from the luxury-feel folk Give me a little 'luxury' every day of the week!

I'd say pointless, if the last few I've installed are anything to go by . Quieter than a mouse whispering and zero movement / vibration etc. Piped with rigid copper too and not a flexi in sight.

TigerClaw vs Screwfix Can you post a link please?

Hi Brendan. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/47-market-place/

It's unnecessary with a concrete pour afaic, but necessary with a Flocrete or liquid screed. Radon is down low with Kore and MBC, so doesn't need much more protection other than at the perimeter, where it is exposed for a while. The upper level of EPS becomes the 'sacrificial layer' and protects it.

Have a look here and watch the video https://www.mbctimberframe.co.uk/passive-house/passive-foundations/

As long as there's no gaps The caveat is that the use of a lower performing material requires more of it. Compacfoam or Marmox does the job well within a much thinner profile. Not hugely different in performance per-se, but it's uniform and can be 100% gap / void free so that adds (U) value

If you keep the insulation up high, the service voids are preserved.

String is king!! Just use a heavy duty staple gun and away you go.

In an ideal world, that is Still wouldn't have mattered, other than the shift of onus. One pour started, then their pump failed, then they brought the reserve pump, and that failed. So the concrete got bucketed in by excavator. IIRC they finished around 01:00.

Indeed, and I've just had this exact conversation with the PH architects on one of my current projects. I'ts down to whether this was impactful on the front facade or not, but blinds (external) would always be my 1st choice for ground floor at least. Overhangs can be a design feature and integrated early at the design stage, so both shoes fit tbh. The main point is, I dislike anything dictating window sizes when PHPP can be manipulated (rob Peter to pay Paul) to achieve a mutually beneficial outcome (manage 'issues' / retain larger windows to enjoy southern views etc), and I feel that PH often focusses too intensely on the dwelling and not so much on the occupants, who may be in residence for multiples of decades. The focus of my attention is always "client first", and then we look what issues that has created and then I 'engineer' my way out.