Nickfromwales

I can’t win them all, lol. I used a table saw for the first time, and I made a proper mess at the mid point and end, just through inexperience and that other thing…..wanting to keep my all my fingers and thumbs. That is a big distraction tbh. If it’s a table saw which has a nice big bed and supports the wood then great, but the small square table-top saws are a baptism of fire. For a one off job, and if the OP isn’t using these tools every day, then the track saw will be a great choice imho. If the OP feels confident, then go with the table saw, but I’d recommend spending an hour or 2 running dead stock through it to get some practice in before going at the linings, as it’s pointless going through all this to save money and having to buy new linings as they got chewed by the saw. Particularly difficult to consistently keep the whole length against the blade fence all the way through to completing the cut, AND get it out of the blade before it gets another unwanted shave. I’d not consider this without a competent second pair of hands. Track saw can be clamped and used ‘mono’ so that would be my choice here, based on the OP’s experience.

You keep saying this, and I'll keep disagreeing with you, sorry. The inherent benefits of not using masonry (brick / block etc) is hugely significant, especially if your chosen TF contractor offers a guaranteed airtightness score!! Even more so again, if they're blowing in Warmcell to the walls and roof as this again deletes time, labour, and irregularities in how the product(s) get installed. Also, once you incorporate these key elements into your trajectory the downstream time saving is also massive; there is only electrical & plumbing 1st fix to do before you move immediately to boarding and plastering, in an all but bone-dry dwelling, and most TF will be service battened to accept small bore services. Makes everything a doddle after that tbh, and is very attractive to the hands-on posse / avid DIY'ers.

Is that small - medium concerns, or the larger more recognised companies? If so, who of recent? Genuine question which will be of value here.

If the same rad is going on back on, cut behind the door (300-400mm away from the wall so you can get a pipe slice on, without straining the pipe, and the copper can be cleaned for re-soldering) and then cut again 8" away from the opposite corner, and then the same in the corner opposite that, to completely remove the pipework from the room, (but fully intact), so as to be reinstated. If you are wanting clean pipework, and it'll very likely be painted as not many people want to see solder/copper at joints, just get a flapper disc in the grinder and clean the paint off, prime and paint the majority, and leave 6" away from where the pipes will be re-soldered and paint up later when in situ. I'd then box these in afterwards with the skirting, as suggested, but that's down to personal preference.

That will be zero to do with the pipe IMHO, and everything to do with poor internals of the valve itself. A full-bore isolation vs a horrid Ballofix valve is chalk and cheese. 16mm pipe is plenty if off a combi. I'd only go 22mm if off an UVC etc.

I think most brick & block layers like to string the line through an block through, the same way TF co's and chippy's will leave footers of stud frames fly through the bottoms of each doorway, and then cut them out retrospectively. Pennies in the grand scheme, but pays dividends in getting stuff nice and straight / plumb etc.

That's not apples for apples is is? I think @nod was referring to the instance that we see before us, and in that scenario most prefer to go out as far as is practicable.

Errr, kind of goes for everything and anything tbh. You can buy a saw, but that doesn't make you a carpenter etc.

Tut! 🙄 There are folk who do this on their one-off new build and have just one instance to record / recount, and folk who do this for a living. I do this for a living, and the results always speak for themselves The feedback is from clients who are living with and using the systems, and there is NO better critic than a client, I assure you. If you clip strategically to give some wiggle-room, and decouple the copperwork from the fabric of the build with insulation where it enters, then you'll enjoy silent, issue-free operation. FACT. If you've bought a unit which chugs and shudders. then you chose poorly, sorry, and will defo need the flexi's. They're a product to resolve an issue you created, so once again I impress upon the good people here......"Choose wisely and design problems out, as prevention is cheaper and better than cure(s)". The Stiebel unit is remarkably good, you could make a tower out of playing cards and sit that atop, fire it up, and they'd still be there intact. The Panasonic units aren't far behind in fairness, considering how gob-smackingly good value for money they are!! Both are incredibly 'silent' too. @Thorfun, how's 'life without flexis' to date?

That's my afternoon gone

More chance of ruing them with a table saw tbh. Can you hire / borrow a track saw for the day and get them all out ready for cutting in one go? Remember, you’ll be taking both sides worth of material off the one side, not cutting both sides

Whatever you do, do NOT cut / chisel / plane these linings down!! When you come to install arrow-straight doors to the wavey linings you will kick yourself. Work out what the minimum amount is that needs removing, mark each lining side with this information, remove the lining, cut it down with a track saw (and nothing else) and then refit. As you’ll have taken the minimum amount off, you’ll still have some gaps to fill, but that ‘the norm’. If you are an excellent chippy, you could use an electric plane, but you won’t get straight lines at the beginning and end of the ripp.

Did they show you a copy of this?

Which one(s)?

What are the emitters upstairs?

Crikey, is the ASHP in the next village? Are they on the same floor of the house, or GF & FF?

Oddly my spread asks for the orange stuff. Maybe it's just cheaper than buying glasses.

I am en route! Never underestimate what a Swansea boy will do for free beer.

Can I have some money to go out tonight, please?

Ok, you'll just have to come inside of the ring beam steelwork, and avoid the intermediates, but a lot easier than the awkward incremental gapping's of B&B! The communications provider may well want rigid BT56 ductwork / similar, or they may refuse to pull the service in. After that I'd put cold mains into a 110mm UG soil pipe with a rest bend (unless you can get an off-cut of the blue stuff), and then all other things just in regular flexi ductwork. Electrical stuff only needs the hockey-stick if mounted externally, as most will be SWA and suitable for direct burial so need no such protection when rising through the slab, plus they're visible so no worries about 'safe zones' etc.

It was going so well...........

Yup, all looks kosher I'd look at a retro-fit hot water cylinder insulated jacket on eBay etc and wrap that buffer up to the nth degree, just a shame it couldn't be in the heated envelope somewhere. FYI, you can tee the returns into each other wherever they are easiest to do so. Top and bottom and diagonally opposite is best, but it could be piped top & bottom entry with both pipes the same side if it made things massively easier, tbh. Fills up with the rest of the system off the filling loop, yes. Remember to manually crank the zone valves to the fill / drain position (via the lever on the side of the valve) when filling or draining. For the ground floor and 1st floor rads, will these all have TRV's on each rad, and will they likely all be at least a % open whenever the heating is turned on / calling? I'd say that would be a yes. If so, I'd suggest fitting a 3-port valve, located up at the buffer, to prevent it from being heated (and wasting heat) unnecessarily eg if the 2-port zone valve for 'rads' is open ergo no short-cycling. In a nutshell, you can then choose whether the buffer is 'in play' or 'bypassed', and this is a doddle to do. You just power up the 3-port off the same wire that opens the 2-port for rads, so it 'flip-flops' between the 2 states. All you need to do is buy a 3-port diverter (NOT a 'mid-position' 3-port) and Bob & Fanny are yours for the taking Rads ZV = closed means buffer is in play, and vice versa. Should make this as energy efficient as you'll ever get it 👍. BH buffer pic.pdf Edit: wiring may be far simplified if you use 2x 2-port at the buffer, but my brains a bit fried, been a long day. Edit #2: Scratch that, the 3-port is spring return so all good to use 1x 3-port for this . Beer o'clock I think.....

Makita one jams way too many times. The guys working for me all have the DeWalt as you do. Good choice.

1) Sell the panel. 2) Purchase beer. 3) Enjoy solar thermal by sitting on a chair in the garden getting a tan. 4) see item 2.

Minus 4 teenagers, no doubt