Nickfromwales

There are many ways to skin a cat

Comes with a lifetime warranty then.

Item 4 is the concern. The flue is called “coaxial” as in the products of combustion are blown out via the inner 50mm or so section whilst outside air for supply to the combustion chamber gets sucked in via the larger outer ‘ring’ of the flue. There’s an air switch that needs to see equilibrium between these pressures or the boiler locks out, thinking that one or other is compromised. Safe in that respect, but the way the original installer left this, especially without the cage, is just horrendous. Glad you’ve seen a positive outcome, and I still share the same concerns as you over the pump, but the MI’s will always take precedence over BCO or GSR. The difference between good, or OK I guess!

Spoil yourself lol.

Yes, but 120mm is a lot for perimeter insulation. 50mm would suffice, and will retain more heated m2 of floor area.

An accumulator is like a battery, and it’ll charge up to the max “power” that it has available. Cold mains enters your house at higher static pressure at certain times of the day (usually higher overnight at 2-4AM) so those are the peaks that you’d want to harvest in the accumulated volume of stored energy (water pressure) for use when you wake up with the rest of the world and they use the water ergo you’ll otherwise suffer lower pressure at peak times. To maximise stored volume in the accumulator you need to adjust the back-pressure in the vessel to allow the water in, so you need to know max pressure so you can set the pre-charge accordingly.

The transition from ‘old to new’ seems odd, which may have left a step inside the pipe. Hard for us to comment / judge tbh as these are German standards and fittings not UK.

If I’m in a hotel and the fire alarm goes off, I get out of bed and lay on the floor. Unless it gets to north of 45°C I’m not too concerned.

RCD to lights and sockets, yes, MVHR normally in the plant so would prob be one of the last trips to go. Nobody has front-of-house RCD CU's anymore, do they? Possible if it's a retro-fit I suppose, but during most conversion / refurbishments the CU needs replacing to get a new cert done on the electrical adaptations. All relatively academic as the rule is, see a fire, GTF out. I am just saying to preserve the dwelling, whilst waiting on the fire brigade, stopping air getting in will slow the fire down a lot.

.....fan the flames by supplying fresh oxygenated air in abundance! For preservation of the fabric of a dwelling, you'd discover the fire and close that compartment off as best as possible (close the doors) and get the hell out of there, and then raise the alarm. If the meter is outside then yank the fuse to the house to shut off the MVHR. MVHR would not evacuate smoke, no chance. Dedicated smoke evacuation fans for stairwells etc move huge amounts of air, whereas MVHR at trickle is like a squirrel coughing. You may be asked to install intumescent air valves (ceiling diffusers) but most are just happy with fire-rated spots. This will soon change I believe, as a ceiling should be 30 mins FR throughout. You can buy a self-adhesive intumescent strip to apply to the internal bore but you'd need prior approval from your BCO before assuming it's fine to go with that.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/monument-tools-mains-water-pressure-test-gauge-11bar/82412?kpid=82412&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Tools?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=Cj0KCQjwib2mBhDWARIsAPZUn_nCdrUSQHC88zTNOQI8V5NfpgJIhXydzHSQnpCFQWeV3Y66aEvcMT0aAks0EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Whack that on the outside tap / washing machine feed etc. It's 3/4" so you'll need an adaptor to get onto 15mm pipe or a 1/2" thread. You'll need to put a double-check non return valve on this and leave it overnight. The non return allows you to capture the highest 'peak' pressure available ( usually around 2-4AM ) to survey this correctly for an accumulator. Accumulators live in the plant room, or garage, utility space etc as these are nominally 200-300L, so quite big.

That will give you the flexibility to add another phase if ever necessary.

Defo 2x radials, but 15mm to the shower will be fine. I fitted a crica £2k Hans Grohe shower in a clients build and the water flow from it was just silly (huge amounts). I did install a 300L cold mains accumulator there though, so you may want to consider space to retro-fit this if the shower dips when a tap is opened elsewhere in the house simultaneously.

All except when the hot water is FOC from solar?

+1.

Try a B&Q, as the larger superstores carry all sorts of weird and wonderful plastic trims (located where the steel and alu trims and box-section / sheets etc are).

I routered the tops of the joists in my mates house, donkeys years ago, just enough to run about 50m of 8mm microbore directly under the chipboard (P5) deck. It was connected to the CH flow and return and was balanced with a single 15mm gate valve which was mounted under the removable bath panel. AFAIK, still works to this day, and I'm talking 20+ years ago. Zero insulation (as it was 1st floor / within the heated envelope anyways), and as the pipe was toasty hot the heat got through. Makes me shudder when I think back tbh, but this was a quick and easy way to get the result when there was a budget of <£50 lol. There are P5 deck boards available which are pre-routered, but I would suggest maybe contacting Wunda and asking them to design & supply a system for you that suits your exact circumstances. They give comprehensive support upon you placing a deposit.

That’s 1200mm deep x 1400mm wide total width which will take a cubicle 1200mm return x 1000mm in-fold door. I see no reason to heat that area, given it’s a 1st floor bathroom that will always be at or above ambient, but I have run UTH over them before (at the clients request (insistence)). Most say they barely ever bothered with it tbh, where it was a 1st floor bathroom.

Hi. Most shower trays / wetroom formers are 22mm thick and cannot be 'cut into', however there are very few instances where I've run the electric UTH (under-tile heating) wire into the wet area, as there's very little point tbh. I'm actually installing a Wedi setup atm for a client, and have allowed for the main areas / circulation space to be serviced by the UTH but not the wet area. When the shower is running, you'll only need a couple of degrees to raise the floor (wet) area to where you perceive it as "comfortable" (that has a thousand definitions btw) so I doubt it is worth making this job such a PITA. There's a few solutions for the wet UFH in the bathroom, but I am a fan of (correctly installed) aluminium spreader plates. Then you just install 22mm P5 'weyroc' flooring with ply atop, and tile away. This isn't a very 'reactive' floor heating system as there is a lot for the heat to get through, hence it is very few instances where you see wet UFH in just a bathroom. The economics of just running that on its own for eg would not make much sense but with your circumstances it likely won't matter as you'll likely have the heating 'ticking over' vs on or off? You will defo need this to be on its own manifold with its own thermostatic valve, if there's not UFH elsewhere in the home? If that is the case, you can possibly get away with just having a pump and a TMV at the buffer tank sending tempered water direct to this individual 'zone', but we'd need much more info about the system to advise definitively. If you have this amount of renewable / lo-cost energy available, I'd make like easy and install UTH which you can run over any wetroom former etc. If you install the tiles over insulation tile boards as I am doing here, then the heat up time will be massively reduced and then it can just be timed for set-back operation, switching between comfort and economy temp to make it energy efficient.

+1. They just don't want the hassle. Bin.

https://lilleytileandstone.co.uk/schluter-reno-t-transition-profile-select-colour-width-and-length.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw_aemBhBLEiwAT98FMqPfJcmP0Ikj5ma7v9dWF2HrtHFwxloj4JIQKJ7EicB3nMeQAl_n7xoCOWoQAvD_BwE#139=123&144=227&93=154 Any good?

Just use it in a rotation fashion around the pipe, do not 'polish' linear to the run, as that make make lines vs the 'rings' that you want to create. I'd say it will be fine, but I would also say it would need a good 72hrs at low . mid . high pressure test, and to be filled and emptied (to stress and relax the joint a few times) so maybe set this up as the outside tap and use it a few times a day for a few days.

I've lost count of how many Ubbink systems I've now installed, with joints / couplers a plenty (large houses / convoluted runs / asshole builders with gas nailers damaging ducts etc) and the couplers are bombproof. Just use the coupler, no need whatsoever for the tape afaic. I've not taped any that I've installed, on the proviso that the duct is supported properly (mechanically fixed) and there is zero strain on the fitting. Crack on. ☝️👌

I didn't say it was easy just it is doable. It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog

Snap, lol. 😄