Nickfromwales

I think its here, just check to be sure. LINK

The pic of the ceiling shows evidence that possibly loft insulation or a flap of felt / membrane is causing trouble. Have you been up there to investigate? Damp / mould down below just looks common to ‘life’, so will probably disappear with some ventilation.

Back when @ProDave was a boy, there was only 2 houses and a church

If you remember, I mentioned walking past the house with the shark through the roof. Lol. Just a couple of streets over from that.

Hi and welcome. I worked on a replacement dwelling in Headington, and I have to be honest it is just great to see old, inefficient bags of 💩 from an era gone by being razed and replaced with something great. That was an ICF build. Are you allowed a 2-storey replacement or 1.5 with room in roof / other? Bungalows seem (imo) such a waste of a good bit of ground space.

PM me if you want details of a great SE, (as they don’t want to be ‘advertised’). Not the cheapest, probably mid/high on costs at a glance, but they did a big complicated project for me and I was glad to hear there were no bolt-on costs for the good few final tweaks / redesigns etc plus they problem solved a bunch of stuff for us too (including coordinating with me for a large pita basement and swimming pool). Im glad you went with an insulated raft as these are night & day better than most other options

No mate, that’s exclusively reserved for us plumbers

May be of interest, that I fit Willis heaters in parallel in an infinite loop, with flow and return to the emitters taken off that loop a-la close-coupled tee arrangements. Much less stress on the pump when the TMV on the UFH manifold is close to or at the chosen set point.

Yup, agreed, as long as the cable runs aren’t vulnerable to mechanical damage. May still need an RCD at source if so. It’s down to being there and giving it the old ‘electricians eye’ lol. 😜

Defo costly at a glance, but when you factor in the unit costs, simplicity of install, near zero maintenance, huge longevity, almost immediate heat effect to occupants, they make sense overall. The only kick in the nuts here is the installation ‘engineer’ who first did all this didn’t do the maths, hence there is now a cost to ‘put it right’, then it’ll be a good setup eg fit for purpose.

If you’re on talking terms then just pay to have it rendered and lose the fence? There is not a cats chance that the wall is getting re-made or much further improved, let’s be honest…. You’ll use a lot of energy and life force fighting against this, so just look at whether you want top pay for a new fence (eventually, regardless, as that’s a waffle fence and will snuff it) or use that investment to make the wall look as you wish?

I think there’s a couple of perps which are shy of mortar, door looks A1

Heat rises too, and if someone attempts to heat a communal public (open) space, with convection heating or A2A, my point is that the entire space will need to heat up, which will either take forever or be near ineffective; given these places typically have doors swinging open and closed and air changes are hugely adverse for space heating. IR defo the best option, with smaller un its placed more frequently (if designing from scratch), with also the added benefit of 100% efficient and near zero waste from switch on / switch off times.

Then choosing ICF makes you a wise man, just stay away from woodcrete and defo go for EPS! Can you anonymise your plans and upload them so we can pull them apart comment enthusiastically

Probably no good here as they won’t ‘throw’ the heat over distance as the IR ones do; “heat what you hit” etc

Not if that device is only an RCD, it would need an MCB downstream of the RCD so the inrush / overcurrent doesn’t then smoke the RCD.

You’re easy to wind up, lol. ☺️

With the hot return, I would be inclined to change the pump and start there, if you are after a DIY process of elimination. Beware though that Biasi are the cheapest boilers on the market and have never agreed to fit one as the first one I did in a rental never actually made it to the commissioning before it went back to the merchant (in favour of a Baxi). Repairs to these, if you manage to get any robust tech support (I failed here, it was dire) then parts and labour will quickly cost more than the value of the boiler. We had multiple different failures on switch on, with different led lights flashing in different patterns to identify the fault, but even Biasi couldn’t decipher what the boiler was trying to tell us.

There are some other, more recitative ones out there. I think BPC do some but a bit of googling will soon get you there. It’s down to liking what you like, and pics speak a thousand words

I use Ubbink (via CVC Systems Ltd, Oxon) on every single full house MVHR install I do, and it’s great stuff. The only thing I find is that the usually outlets (valves) are a bit utilitarian. I am using a few of the plaster in types where these are in communal / living spaces and need to look a bit ‘nicer’.

A tilers sponge, they’re lightly coarse, and lots of elbow work I’m afraid. Anything more will mark the plaster. What paint did you use? Or is that discussion in another thread already? It may be that the plasterer polished the hell out of the plaster and gave it the undesired mirror finish… If so you’ll need to discuss this before putting paint back into it.

Virgin seem to be less fussy, so I’d say pull a unique 50mm duct in for that, from the house to the boundary. Don’t forget to put a rope in it!

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/10mm-type-90-22-gauge-staples-pk5000/ It was a cheap B&Q DIY compressor set that I bought to do these types of jobs, and a lot kore to be fair, and came with the stapler. If the job isn’t huge then I’d persevere with screws and washers. Clout nails would be my very last option.

As a potential “prophet”, I would attempt to reach out to people and tell them to get off their uneducated horse and rely on good peoples work ethics, their industry experience of 30+ years, and their zero fail rate. When someone has taken the time and effort to design a system for a client, in good faith, they would hope that they would be rewarded for their efforts….not second-guessed incorrectly and their efforts kicked to the gutter, which is something that happened to me, in another similar instance, where the client decide to retrospectively scrutinise works undertaken (after stating it was working perfectly well) and most annoyingly when they know the square root of fcuk all about plumbing; the reason they sought the services of one in the first place I suspect. IF someone was suitably educated, they would surmise that if 2 Willis heater were installed hydraulically equally, then NO FECKING mixing could occur through the other unit IRRESPECTIVE IF EITHER WERE ON OR OFF. Flow through each unit would occur, as designed, eg equally. If one heater is off, in this scenario, and the other on, then the sum out of the “heater” would be 3kW of heat output. I guess we’re off to the glue factory….

Yup, exactamundo. You can lead a horse to water, but some are just destined to become glue.