Nickfromwales

Buy a used impact off eBay and a couple of new batteries + charger (Chinese copies if you’re brassic) and move on to the next problem. A corded impact would be punishment from hell and utterly impractical to use around a build site. Once you buy batteries and a charger, the naked tools, especially used, are cheap as chips.

👊

If you contact Wavin and tell them you’re fitting a 400mm lever in to it they may say ‘behave’ and dissuade you from using them. They’re for taps / close to wall items where they won’t come under undue forces etc. Brass here, all day long mate!!

Yup. Likewise lol.

If the rubber isn’t covered with it then you’re ok, but I never ‘lube’ these up as the idea is for the rubber to take against the brass and stay put.

Use zilch here, these go on dry, or the rubber washer displaces and you are Donald Ducked.

The Hep2o tap connector is what I use on these, and the spare / alternative ‘square’ washer goes in the bin. Sorry to be late to the party, just crazy busy atm.

Particularly good advice if... So you have some paperwork to support methodology & execution. Most BCO's will just be happy with that tbh.

If the insulation absorbs sound waves, then the more you install the better the results. Air does not arrest sound waves "fill 'er up!!"

For rooms where you’re actually concerned about acoustics, why not also use sound block plasterboard too? Not much more money for belt & braces, and only needs installing on party walls (between habitable spaces) if you want to conserve funds. Me personally, I’d put SB boards on every internal wall, and white on ceilings of FF, but again I’d revert to SB on ceilings of GF.

I think it was just popular, and possibly there were not the alternatives available 'then' as we have 'now'. I've used dry cement based screeds for the last 20+ years without an issue, so I will be interested to see how one of my build clients self-levelling cement screed turns out tbh. I will continue to avoid anhydride screeds personally, just cant see the attraction myself 🤷‍♂️

Nothing will stick to the laitence, no primers / adhesives / bonding agents, nothing. If a floating floor is going down, or carpets, not a problem.

I think there’s an unwritten law about buying shit tools from a supermarket. 👎🤔😛

Play with fire, get fingers burnt basically. Some just take the piss and look surprised when they get collared. 🤷‍♂️

It’ll likely be brass, so don’t go half at it or you’ll lose the little bit of meat you cut into. Pilot and thread extractor all day long! Start with a tiny drill and work up to not tighten this stub in any further.

https://www.theheatpumpwarehouse.co.uk/shop/heat-pumps/air-source-heat-pumps/7-kw-panasonic-aquarea-high-performance-mono‑bloc-j-generation-1-phase-r32-wh-mdc07j3e5/ Panasonic 7kW for £2.5k + the Vodka And Tonic. Reverses for cooling without much thought / input, but if this is a let property you’d need to decide the merits of cooling (or just not announce it until you perhaps adopt the property later down the road?).

I’ve been planning a suitable punishment lol. @nod, please tell me that you’re going to put all the locking collets onto every SINGLE fitting?! If not, the punishment will have to be quite severe, sorry.

Nice and neat, top job 🫡👌

In my GF bathroom I brought the pipes up in the footprint of the pedestal, so you can’t see any plumbing other than the waste pipe existing horizontally through the wall. 1, best of the worst, but defo convert to copper and clip it. 2. not whilst I’ve a hole in my you-know-where 👎👎👎 3. #1 choice, using a Hep 90 in the wall to allow copper to be on show. Behind a radiator is where those plates get used, eg where they’ll never be seen and where there is no need to fill / sand / decorate around them.

Defo have 90’s in RS, but the ones you show are also glue coated (the blue) which heats up and cures from the heat from the friction of firing the nail in. Try smacking a misfired nail in and you’ll see how well (and quickly) the glue holds! Stand down red alert, and just pop some extra 90’s in if you want to. I doubt you’ll have a moments trouble here tbf, even if simply left alone.

Unless these are in direct rain etc you really don’t need to worry. Bright nails would be the worst to have used, but that’s more because they’re not ring-shank (so they don’t grip the wood very well) vs whether they would rot out. FWIW, I used regular light galv 51’s on my feather edge and no signs of trouble to date, and they’re completely exposed to all elements. Do you have a pic of the nails used?

Do you mean how would I convert what’s ‘on display’ if the pipe is Hep and it’s that which is poking out, vs having been converted to copper? Is the Hep fixed or does it have play? Issue may be, gripping hold of the pipe to push a fitting on, but if you be Hep on display you’ll need a minimum of one Hep fitting to get you to copper. If you want / need to convert to copper that is? Pics?

Just install a flexible cable conduit over them and tape up the joint. It’ll be fine, as there’s actually very little actual movement, ask people who’ve tiled over ‘expansion points’ and not even had so much as a hairline crack. If the slab is of a reasonable thickness with anti-crack mesh etc then it’s just going nowhere, and if it’s a low energy home the slab should see big temps shifts anyways?

Yup. I use the inline McAlpine traps with 21.5mm x 32mm reducers in each end.

A good place to start the process of elimination tbh, as there’s nothing worse than changing stuff to then arrive straight back at the original fault.