Nickfromwales

With an EPS system I suspect you'd need a form of mechanical fixing at (or above) a certain kg/m2 loading, so perhaps you'll end up fixing a 6 or 9mm cement board to the structure and then using tile adhesive to attach the flint to the CB. If this is a woodcrete then maybe you can parge with cement slurry, tank, and go for the above fixing method.

Does that require holes to inject being made at very high frequency? It's a spray rather than an 'injectable' product? I'm not sure if the 'right' product is a slower curing foam, eg so it travels much further before the curing process begins, as otherwise you'll have a lot of circles vs a continuous sheet of new material. This would be an excellent option. Any update @EinTopaz?

Yup. Needs a simple, robust resolve, so would go for a design and rebuild in masonry. Drainage has probably been overlooked at the foot of the wall, further amplifying the issue.

If you know where the sand and cement were bought / type / manufacturer etc then raking out and removing a whole brick(s) is not terribly difficult or compromising. The only issue with a 12-15mm dowel is that it may just stab the PIR if it requires a little ‘grunt’. You could rake out T section, eg where courses of mortar meet the perps, and then mitre-bond 2 bits of door stop together to mate a T piece to slide in, to get a bit more footprint to apply the pressure (only required anywhere where the dowel doesn’t work of course). The only bump in the road here will be, if there’s big snots of mortar preventing the full sections of PIR being pushed back uniformly. Good luck.

Please do try to keep relevant content on here wherever possible, or summarise if you have an “Eureka!” moment, as solutions gained off air do not benefit the masses 🙏. Gratsi!

Ok, thanks for that input. I guess I’ll stop mixing up this vat of wood chip, sawdust and PVA then?

Ok, so which ones work? Can you take your better half with you so one person can hold the hot pipe at the cylinder whilst the other person goes to open one of the non-functioning taps in the fully hot position. The new hot cylinder will have a ‘control group’ which looks like this, and you need to make sure that none of it gets even warm when running those outlets. The pipe at the top of the hot water cylinder will naturally be hot to the touch as it rises from the cylinder, so follow that pipe until it is cool / cold and that where you want to hold it to see if hot water travels out of the cylinder at all. Do NOT open the taps that work before this test or you’ll then heat up the pipe you’re testing with! Report back if opening any non-functioning taps pulls any hot water out of the cylinder or if that control group gets warm. This one may be tricky to solve so best to start getting through a process of elimination that doesn’t require paying for a plumber to come out.

Panasonic Aquarea units are just fantastic value for money, and very quiet too.

That’s my thoughts. Looks to be uniform and intentional, eg by design in manufacture. We shall soon find out!

I would confirm with who cut them, and if they were sized / spec'd / designed for this application. If so, then no issue, if not, whoever cut them is facing a feckin big bill... To support from underneath you'd fit noggins of full depth, solid timber, or off-cuts of the same profile I beam. I've never seen this done on any site I've ever been on, and that more than a few! Time to ask some awkward questions, but start at the manufacturer and designer first, then move on to the fitters. Good luck, and hopefully it is intentional / allowed for.

Do you then just waft the stench of a #2 around with a dinner tray? And dry the walls of the bathroom with a towel? MVHR is exactly that, for the times where the house cannot be left open to the elements, at winter, and at night for ground floor at least for security, plus any time you are away. It costs next to nothing to run and provides heat recovery, so utter madness to not use it, more so to make a high performance dwelling and then not complete the circle by having the heat recovered vs letting it blow out to the clouds. Have you got extractor fans in all your bathrooms which you never ever use? 🙄

Worst case is the 1st fix plumbing has the hot and cold reversed, as these are very important to get the right way around (hot to hot and cold to cold etc). Does the wash basin tap work or are these concealed mixers too? Does water come out when hot is selected or zero water when hot is selected (test this fully away from the cold setting on the lever /tap).

The clue is in the question, eg “tumbled”. If you want a more ‘perfect’ product you usually ask for ‘rectified’ as that comes in a regularised format vs the rustic look that is expected with a tumbled product.

Easy tiger. Have you looked at each end, all fittings, and have deduced that it is 100% the pipe in between that is leaking? Pathways for that pipe run known? Could it have been punctured by a screw or a nail, think where that could have occurred. It’s a piss-you-off situation, agreed, but let’s see if we can help you to resolve it via the least painful methods and avenues, ya?

What type / size of pipe is it that you suspect is leaking? Joints assumed in the run or just joints at either ends and long runs of push fit? Copper and soldered joints? Info plz

You can have the vent as a remote SVP stack, behind an outbuilding for eg, if you prefer to not penetrate the roof, but at the worst you only need 1x SVP and then the other can be an AAV. That depends on what it is going to be; tray / flush to floor tiled over wetroom former / other. Info please!! Maybe show us pics of what takes your fancy and we can work from there 👍

If the invert (drop from vertical to horizontal) is less than 1300mm then no AAV required, push back if BCO insists! SVP can take these without issue, providing the lot stays at 110mm (smaller pipe can be used if it's just a vent). Where solids are introduced there are rules to follow regarding the runs being pretty much straight to the inspection chambers, without any changes in direction. If you have to use a bend then rodding access should be provided where the soil stack appears above concrete / FFL.

I'll ping it over by PM mate

My bad, I assumed a concealed unit.

I fit these into the shower valve, and add 1/2" x 3/4" brass bushes if needed. LINK Then no need to convert to copper Done bucket loads of jobs this way, perfectly acceptable and robust option.

Depends on how many wood burning stoves are around you, as then I'd want an extract.

It is down to what is stated in writing between yourselves. Also, text or WhatsApp, and then your last hope of impartial witnesses hearing you say this (not family or friends). Sounds like you have a case to withhold the payment until these works are rectified, but you’ll need to sit this chap down asap, and explain your intended path. He needs to be provided with an opportunity to rectify, and he then only has a certain amount of time to respond, or you employ a 3rd party and bill him. Talking is better than shouting so choose how you will approach him and explain you just want what was promised. Do you have separate foul and storm water drains to the network? If not then they may be allowed to become combined, but the gotcha is, you’d probably then need to go to a soak away first, and then just the overflow from that goes into the foul.

You usually have one or the other, but on a project with PME and an annex which was metal clad with PV, it was too far away to export the earth. For that one we terminated the SWA in a PVC adaptable box and lifted the earths there and then added a rod to the annex CU. That is recognised practice, connecting two together, not, afaik. There are two very different potentials at work here, so conduit a qualified electrician to advise you properly, as you say you think it’s not an issue when it is . It is not sensible at all imo, it’s dangerous.

Pretty much, which is why Great Britain is now just Britain.....

I'd be very careful as the combination of the two is a not-well-recognised widow maker. Why aren't you simply getting rid of the earth rod?