Nickfromwales

You can jump the generated picture from a set top box, with AV senders, but you can’t ping the coax TV signal I’m afraid. Skirtings and architraves off, run the cable, pop ‘em back on. 😢

If there’s a combi in the attic, you have to do 3 things or a service agent won’t go up there: 1) there must be a fixed access ladder, not a steps. 2) there must be lighting up there. 3) there must be floorboards from the hatch to the boiler 5-8m isn’t too bad tbf, but best to know the pro’s & con’s

The only kick in the knackers with putting the combi in the attic is a much longer wait for hot water at the furthest outlet. I’ve fitted scores of them in attics, but only after explaining this and the client accepting the compromise, so they don’t (can’t) come back and whinge afterwards. Consider this as the combi (if not a heat store type) will need flow (open the hot tap) for a sequence to occur to light and get to temp and then you get premium temp hot water out. A cloakroom basin hot tap a long way away wouldn’t see hot water in time for you to wash your mits after a pee, for eg.

Just remember if you don’t do that manual push quite rapidly the mechanism won’t press the micro switch that tells the boiler to light. The lever is only there to manually open the valve for commissioning / draining down, and if you move it slowly to the latched on position the micro switch won’t get operated You’d need to push it quite quickly, and then the momentum created sends the arm past the latch position, then it temporarily presses the switch, and then drops back away from it. First test as above is the starting point, then diagnosing from there will be by more process of elimination here Does sound like the motorised valve isn’t doing its thing, as the boilers not lighting but the UFH controls seem to be working as the pump comes on at the manifold, so should be easy to get the issue identified. Ask any questions and we’ll go through it step by step.

You’ll need to install a hot water cylinder, plus it’s likely that you’ll need to change all the rads to much bigger, or have a high temp split ASHP, which would prob have much worse COP.

It won’t be going in the garage!!! It would sap the heat energy out of the air in there in about 10 minutes. If someone says it can go in there then send them away 👉. Vaillant HEx have never been an issue afaik, so I doubt that a real problem. Many heat store combis out there so do a bit of googling. In honesty I haven’t bought a gas boiler to fit in over 6 years, so, unlike the aluminium, I’m a little rusty lol.

He was referring to the quote breakdown for the roofing works. Quite likely then the ridge is the common factor to both elevations? And you know it’s in disrepair. Perhaps find a tame roofer who will go up on a ladder with a bucket of compo and re-bed it all in properly and go from there. @Russell griffiths advice is what I’d also do but likely it’ll all point back to the ridge. Water / leaks are a PITA to find.

Any pics to see how good / bad? Who’s responsible, or is it just a case of getting on with it?

Hi. Do you know the pitch of the roof? It’s a little difficult to tell from the pics, so could you perhaps take one of the side of the house and we can then see it better, please? Looks more than adequate pitch for concrete tiles to work, I have a tiled roof much shallower than that on my rear lean-to and it’s not an issue. £2k for what is really a days work sounds like it’s expensive! Can be done off ladders too if they wanted, just health & safety gone mad these days.

There’s a really nice looking garden shed in the background. They’ve spent a lot of money fitting a nice door to it though, sheer madness!

Indeed, every day still remains to be a school day. I’ve learned an insane amount on here, plus actually being on site and being hands on with these “new technologies” has been absolute gold dust. Reading back through this, there’s a decent argument both ways, (type 3 vs 1), other than I disagree that type 3 would ‘damage’ EPS (as every one I’ve been on has had a sharp sand blinding over it). MBC, for one, lay that down quite meticulously tbf, so the devil is in the detail as always. I guess ground conditions, slope of site, water table etc (and more) would play huge parts here, so I guess this subject, as with others, would need much more info and be kept case specific to give an outright opinion or solution. No harm, no foul. 👍

I’m off to bed folks. “Springers final thoughts” are…. Don’t suffer mediocrity, especially after paying for something far better (on a promise). 👋 🛌

I am displeased with both your enjoyment, and lack of empathy.

Apologies for the break in comms, just got back from B&Q. My trophy shelf was rammed, so had to go get a second one. Excellence comes at a price folks, "beware".

I was considering that, as we did that for a job in Ipswich for the kicker course, and it made detailing the DPC/M there just a breeze, plus Nudura were happy to include it in their design approvals as a recognised method of sorting these detailed sections out. Essentially redundant if the concrete rising in between isn't 'damp' yes? I am quickly reminded why I love EPS ICF so much.

Exactly the type of architects I frequently meet, and despise with a vengeance; some I have had the client dismiss because of just how 'up there' they think they are. Then I introduce them to the ones I use and they say "ooooh, that's absolutely fantastic" lol. It's so easy to get it right, and there are so many people I cut my teeth around that I used to look up to, that I now don't give a second glance, it's mad. And I'm a nobody in the industry, just a loudmouth on a forum who'd otherwise just be lost in the noise. I just wish I got paid their salaries, particularly when I have to feed and burp them, change their nappies, and teach them the chuffing basics.......

It's actually pickling my brain tbh. Methinks the EPS would need to come off the concrete core of the ICF and then a liquid DPC applied. Did Nudura give you any detailing for this at all?

More my point of their mixed up and confusing statements of what is and isn't industry standard and recognised terminology.... But I do like the way you came running into the room ready to defend lol. Easy tiger, there's a good few ones out there too . We always give indicative FFL and state how that was decided, and the client can then chop & change with a much greater understanding of the impact when they DO then go on to change their mind; as you rightly say, a LOT changes along the way in a self-build, as most are of course reasonably clueless at the outset, but they become pretty clued up towards the end and then the fun starts A good architect will be the one who prepares the client vs catches them when they fall. I've seen waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too many of the latter, and the fees they charge to 'put it right' at the 11th hour.

LOL. It's all gone to hell in a hand cart here In other news, my battery just snuffed it on my car.....praise the lord for offspring, the car I bought them, and then trying to convince them to get out from behind the gaming PC and come and dig me out of the crap. New thread tomorrow will be "where the (expletive deleted) is the battery hidden in my GLS63". Answers on a postcard, please.

I'm stuck at home, so can you all promise NOT to drink beer and have a great meet, please?

...and all you had to do for that to happen, was stand near it and clap loudly

Given how much they get paid....why are a lot of architects quite so shit at their jobs? 🤷‍♂️

TOC (top of concrete) is what I’ve always seen as the top of raft / screed, and FFL is exactly that, your finished floor level (so not your unfinished floor level ) unless I’m going mad, which is possible.

Standard detail I’ve seen / done under every single EPS insulated raft, so the layers of EPS don’t become swamped and thermally ‘compromised’. In any instance where the clay / ground doesn’t promote good natural drainage, French drains made off to soakaways are also installed around the perimeter of the foundation. Compacted type 1 could be used to make a pond! Wouldn’t want my house sat in a pond?

Ok, thanks. I missed that. For accuracy, top of concrete is top of screed, and FFL is that inclusive of the floor covering, just to avoid confusion. So your FFL (the top side of the MC (microcement)) will be 305mm above b&b. If this was my build, just because how particular you’ll need to be with MC, I’d used cemflow (liquid cementitious screed) at 80mm and possibly consider some stainless anti crack mesh at the area of the top step for belt & braces. Ill try and draw a cross section of how I’d make the steps up a little later today.