Nickfromwales

I forgot this was a timber frame. 😵‍💫 Tony’s trays aren’t needed in this instance? If so, why? @G and J?

As long as you pull long radius bends then defo a winner. I’ve used 16mm pert-al UFH pipe to send temp sensors down, buried in the screed etc, and works a treat. If you can get a fish wire up it, then the fibre will zoom through.

Bigger box helps, as it’s just punishing to struggle with a smaller box with everything in such close proximity. Also gives you the option to add to it later without losing too much more hair.

Yup. I use it a lot. Closed cell (unlike the knee jerk foams from the builders sheds), doesn’t bridge damp, and when it cures it’s very robust (unlike the shed foams which crumble like a bit of honeycomb). Every project I’m on is airtight, so I also use this for cable/pipe penetrations too, or any awkward junctions where tape or membrane is impractical to use. Just wondered if a squirt all round with this would negate installing Tony trays and membranes etc. Can’t really see, if injected properly, why this wouldn’t do the job. I assume the one benefit is to not have the ends of joists exposed inside the cavity, but not so sure that’s actually an issue. Me personally I’d just fit a wall plate and attach the joists to that vs making loads and loads of penetrations in my new walls.

WiFi’s getting better and better too. Very impressed by the WiFi7 Ubiquity WAPs I put in a clients build last year. 2 units gave excellent cover for a 320m2 build (MBC PH TF). 👌

Would the Illbruck 330FM foam not suffice here vs the Tony trays?

A bit like when you get caught looking on cat6hub? 😜

A bit late to start the 11 steps then. I can’t save them all lol.

No idea whatsoever. Sorry. Maybe patch in with regular bricks, and then do a thin coat render over it to make it look a little easier on the eyes? Not the prettiest of walls, do you want to invest time and money to make it look this way? My 2 cents, please don’t take offence.

No way josé. You’re just panicking now because you’ve been rumbled for hiding in the comms cupboard; after convincing the better half that without these things life will cease to exist. You’re a dead man if she ever reads this. Lol. I’m going to pm you with some institutes that can help you through these difficult times. Stay strong, you can make it back ok. We all believe in you, “go champ!” To clarify, the ONLY time this is justifiable, is when the wife is watching 90 day fiancé and hadn’t notice you standing in the (normally closed) doorway to the offending comms room, desperately trying to justify the massive time and money over investment in what…….just didn’t need doing whatsoever. Plug the god damned cat6’s into the switch. Ffs. With the time saved, go visit the coast and take some pics instead. That’s value. Patch panels in your home, = zero value. Just “No”. 👎.

Cos I said so. 🫶🙃

When will folk realise that the patch panel is way ott. Making off the cat6’s to RJ45 plugs and pushing those directly into the switch………works perfectly. Less gin, more tonic, folks

Maybe start at the BM and ask for contact details for the rep of the membrane supplier. Pick their brains for a top local installer.

I used those piranha ones on the last job, much easier imho.

Same as the screwfix and plumbers forums, fecking boxing rings full of big egos..... Buildhub is a joy in comparison, which is why we sometimes shoot first and ask questions later, lol. "Just keepin' the patch clean guv!"

Will be dependant on what is tapped (tee'd) off the rising cold mains, before it gets to the attic. Ideally the stockcock will supply the outside tap and cold water appliances, then you'll have a second non return (single check) valve to keep the stored energy in the accumulator for use with bathing etc only, as you don't want things like the washing machine and outside tap using the stored energy and then the shower being starved when you need to use it. All the info you've provided says to me an acc'r on its own will be plenty enough additional potential here, to provide short-sharp boost for showering, and to bridge the times of less than brilliant pressure / flow from the network.

I'd love to have the capacity to go on to one of these jobs with the same budget available to me, and run a close-knit team of trades to build the same thing for a decent chunk of profit.....but it just doesn't ever seem to work out unless the jobs are back-to-back and are rolling out of a conveyor belt. MBC have a near unique USP, and their prices reflect this; if you go to the local corner shop for a pint of milk it'll cost you way more than going further for a supermarket, so the convenience factor is at play here. When entrusting large sums of money you want reassurance that you'll get what you were promised, another USP for any worthy supply & fit company, so best to be honest here and say those who don't have time or knowledge will give up the extra fees to have someone to be held accountable for any issues, minor or major, which brings a lot of comfort and reduces stress and anxiety 100 fold vs 'going it alone'. There's a hell of a lot to go wrong, if coordinating and leading a project such as a full new build by one's self, and some think they "got this" (a lot soon realise they "don't got this" btw...) and then are left holding a very expensive baby. You can buy a load of car parts off eBay and build a car by hand, or you can go to a car sales and drive off in less than an hour, depends if you've got the time/space/tools/knowledge, same as anything else. I've seen a lot of self builders go massively over budget, purely by misadventure or having balls bigger than their brains.

And you have to remove all the installed PIR to fit it. Chillax peeps, a good afternoon with some 330 and a bit of GAF and this can be brought back into 2025 without having to re-mortgage . I would say that the above is good advice; buy the 2 layers of PIR, and then tape the joints, then install standard plasterboard with long screws.

Just ask (tell) them to make sure not to squirt loads of foam in and that then gets to the felt, you just need the gaps filled slowly and with the minimal amount of foam getting behind the boards. They'll need to leave it to expand and cure, and then for it to be cut back flush, before the next layer of boards go on.

Looks a very neat job done by very conscientious workers. And kudos to the 1-man ply-boarding machine...top guy.

Every gap needs to be foam-filled. Clearly there's too much product been installed for these guys to go removing this and replacing with new stuff, cut better, but TBH if they do the foam work meticulously then you'll be fine. It is sloppy work, so time for a cup of tea and a chat with them to say this won't fly. With the second layer, this can be saved, but ask them to take more time and cut this lot in much better from this point forwards. Tell them you absolutely must be given the opportunity to check this has been done properly before they even think about covering it over with the next layer

I've seen this in action with previous projects I've been on where MBC were the package provider; problem arises, they respond immediately, positively, with zero friction or delay. Folk are only human at the end of the day, so it's inevitable something will go squiff, just refreshing to see it put right quickly with the minimal of fuss.

Pilot drill the screw holes obvs.

Yup. 👍 If you do it as I say to do it, the glued joint will be stronger than the wood. Get the paint off, glue and clamp it as best you can (clamping over a straight edge such as a good box spirit level is best) and make sure to leave for 48hrs for the glue to go off completely. Try gluing two bits random bits of pine together with the same method, and then trying to get them apart, and you’ll have your answer

Hep2o these days is just wonderful stuff, but ironically they’ve made a new range of twist-to-lock fittings, methinks because the fit and forget fittings I’m used to were a pita to decouple, so marketing prob got involved to help folk who are fingers and thumbs.