Nickfromwales

Worst case is the 1st fix plumbing has the hot and cold reversed, as these are very important to get the right way around (hot to hot and cold to cold etc). Does the wash basin tap work or are these concealed mixers too? Does water come out when hot is selected or zero water when hot is selected (test this fully away from the cold setting on the lever /tap).

The clue is in the question, eg “tumbled”. If you want a more ‘perfect’ product you usually ask for ‘rectified’ as that comes in a regularised format vs the rustic look that is expected with a tumbled product.

Easy tiger. Have you looked at each end, all fittings, and have deduced that it is 100% the pipe in between that is leaking? Pathways for that pipe run known? Could it have been punctured by a screw or a nail, think where that could have occurred. It’s a piss-you-off situation, agreed, but let’s see if we can help you to resolve it via the least painful methods and avenues, ya?

What type / size of pipe is it that you suspect is leaking? Joints assumed in the run or just joints at either ends and long runs of push fit? Copper and soldered joints? Info plz

You can have the vent as a remote SVP stack, behind an outbuilding for eg, if you prefer to not penetrate the roof, but at the worst you only need 1x SVP and then the other can be an AAV. That depends on what it is going to be; tray / flush to floor tiled over wetroom former / other. Info please!! Maybe show us pics of what takes your fancy and we can work from there 👍

If the invert (drop from vertical to horizontal) is less than 1300mm then no AAV required, push back if BCO insists! SVP can take these without issue, providing the lot stays at 110mm (smaller pipe can be used if it's just a vent). Where solids are introduced there are rules to follow regarding the runs being pretty much straight to the inspection chambers, without any changes in direction. If you have to use a bend then rodding access should be provided where the soil stack appears above concrete / FFL.

I'll ping it over by PM mate

My bad, I assumed a concealed unit.

I fit these into the shower valve, and add 1/2" x 3/4" brass bushes if needed. LINK Then no need to convert to copper Done bucket loads of jobs this way, perfectly acceptable and robust option.

Depends on how many wood burning stoves are around you, as then I'd want an extract.

It is down to what is stated in writing between yourselves. Also, text or WhatsApp, and then your last hope of impartial witnesses hearing you say this (not family or friends). Sounds like you have a case to withhold the payment until these works are rectified, but you’ll need to sit this chap down asap, and explain your intended path. He needs to be provided with an opportunity to rectify, and he then only has a certain amount of time to respond, or you employ a 3rd party and bill him. Talking is better than shouting so choose how you will approach him and explain you just want what was promised. Do you have separate foul and storm water drains to the network? If not then they may be allowed to become combined, but the gotcha is, you’d probably then need to go to a soak away first, and then just the overflow from that goes into the foul.

You usually have one or the other, but on a project with PME and an annex which was metal clad with PV, it was too far away to export the earth. For that one we terminated the SWA in a PVC adaptable box and lifted the earths there and then added a rod to the annex CU. That is recognised practice, connecting two together, not, afaik. There are two very different potentials at work here, so conduit a qualified electrician to advise you properly, as you say you think it’s not an issue when it is . It is not sensible at all imo, it’s dangerous.

Pretty much, which is why Great Britain is now just Britain.....

I'd be very careful as the combination of the two is a not-well-recognised widow maker. Why aren't you simply getting rid of the earth rod?

We had the same problem on one job, so we just extended them to suit.

They aren't all interchangeable, that's the problem you may face, hence me saying buy one complete unit which has both 'parts' of halves

The shower trap usually had the outlet as part of the product, unlike a kitchen sink where the trap and the waste outlet are two separate bits of kit. If you have access then change the whole unit and use something reputable like McAlpine. Check sizes before ordering

Sorry! Yes, very effective but need a higher flow temp. In that pic was 2x 16mm pipes in spreader plates, then 22mm P5, then 6mm ply, then tile adhesive and porcelain tiles. You’ll defo need a dedicated UFH manifold for the upstairs circuits so you can set different flow temps for GF and FF.

Just looked at the HG more intensively, and it’s just a whopper of a ‘wet’ heat exchanger in essence? So not really a store so much, just water is ‘in it’. OP says these things in a nutshell.

Perhaps, but taking heat for DHW production from a HP via any type of instantaneous heat exchanger isn’t great however you cut it (imho). Heat pump to UVC is just way better from many aspects. What temps and COP do you get? And is this an EAHP, or a monoblock > TS with an instantaneous DHW coil in it? You’ve prob said many times but I forget. Good to hear what works when it doesn’t ‘click’ with me.

These ones are sat on top of the joists, others we did from the underside with the plates I linked to (actually we used the single runs and overlapped as the joists were at 400 oc). You need to go slow and steady when lacing the pipes in from underneath to avoid kinking them. And avoid what I did which was sleep on my feet and wrap the pipe around a joist and then notice after I’d tucked it in that void lol.

Are you saying you put a ‘swing check’ valve in?

A heap pump and a thermal store should never meet. For a TS to make DHW you need to be above 75°C, so to ask a HP to do that is just no bueno.

Good point!

Sorry. Missed this. My thoughts exactly which means the world’s gone mad! And your BCO lady is out of a job. Protect a steel that’s already protected, but leave the wood exposed that’s holding the fecking steel up. 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️