Nickfromwales

Oddly, I just asked it, and it said "Not while I have a hole in my ass"..... Must be a different Indian sub-contractor pretending to be AI than the one you got. Such a shame.

My worry would be those walls simply disintegrating the second you start to interfere with what is taking all of the weight of them. Even underpinning, very slowly and painstakingly, would prob be a worry. Any kind of vibration or percussion is an enemy of those walls for sure. Sounds a bit drastic, but can you drop those walls and replace in stud? You’re quite committed atm, and not much of the existing there to tie back in to if you put timber suspended back in.

Not at all, you’re just obvs using your reading glasses to examine them. I doubt we’re helping Mike much here….

Set your catastrophic concerns aside for tonight at least It’s not going anywhere, anytime soon. Just looks like typical moment of such a structure over such a period of time. There are methods for “stitching” brickwork together to prevent further degradation, involving taking out the mortar, inserting linear metal binders, and then back filling the joints with a high integrity resin (iirc) mortar (pointing system) which is recognised and certified as a long term solution. For your own peace of mind, you can get an SE out to examine, but I’d suggest avoiding any 1st year apprentices and go for someone who’s been in the game for a while who will give you a sensible and pragmatic service/opinion and a robust method for rectification. If works been done next door and power breakers were used, this would’ve been enough to encourage those cracks to grow a bit. @saveasteading / @Gus Potter

I’m a tourist attraction. I worked in Falmouth a lot, in the dry docks, lovely little place. Plenty of beer and scoff from the Admiral Nelson. Anywhere with a coastline is great tbh, and we’re spoilt with the Gower peninsula. 20-40 mins from my front door gets us most the way along it, Oxwich, Wormshead and Rhossili etc.

…probably also helped that you stopped tossing your slop bucket in there?

Estimated cost of flushing WC’s (etc) p/a? What is/are “etc”? Estimated cost of buying and installing equipment and drilling borehole? I assume mains water is at boundary or on site already? If this isn’t to delete your water bill 100% then I can’t see this a) saving money, b) being a good idea. The cold mains needs zero maintenance, no pumps replacing etc.

Was thinking more a-la Basil Fawlty vs car type of thing.

I'll belay the thrashing................for now, but I have my eye on you, mister.... Hopefully not whilst wearing a black PVC mask with no eyeholes.

Ask BCO what they’ll accept as a pragmatic solution regarding how much (little) concrete cover you can get/have to get in place.

lol. Yea, good news they’ve closed those timber openings in, so you can reverse that. Yes, the Marmox is compatible, just needs your plasterer to scrim tape on the Marmox side of reveal to deal with the fact that the skim is going over some exposed/bare XPS there. If you need a sketch to explain I can sort that later. Pull all the PIR boards forward, so they’re flush with the stud work, and then foam everything with the product I mentioned. It’s way better than the regular dogshit foams, plus it is airtight (closed cell) and won’t bridge damp/moisture. Leave that to cure and then cut it all back flush. Then do NOT foil tape the joints, only foil tape the joints of the 25mm layer that you say you’re flying over this lot with. Don’t buy insulated plasterboard for this, as you’ll want to foil tape the joints and stagger the joints in the plasterboard too, which you can’t do with ins PB. Remember you’ll need to order in some extra long PB screws Put some PIR on top of the purlin too vs just screwing PB to it, but I’m guessing you know to do that. In an ideal world you’d foam each outside edge of every piece of PIR that you fit, so there’s no gaps at bottom/top/sides/junctions at walls etc. Cold air infiltration will delete the insulation work so pay proper attention room to this. Foam between the PIR and the floorboards, to stop any thermal tenting. These things will yield better results than most can appreciate. If you get one of these motorised, even though you can reach them, on very hot days you can get a controller that’ll open then an inch of the temp gets too high (as long as it’s not raining ).

Check out a load of content here, such as:

If you have the plug behind the appliance then you'll need to pull that out to change the fuse, so if these are integrated appliances defo put a single socket in each adjacent cupboard and make life easier/fit & forget. Same I did.

Some pics of the doubled timbers each side of that window would help. May be an option to delete the one immediately next to the opening and add one the other side, to gain a wider opening. For insulating the reveal, you can just install 20mm of Marmox backer board and skim straight to that, so no need for the additional PB And use Illbruck FM330 foam for all the gap filling of the Ken Dodd's teeth that is your existing PIR lol.

You just risk damaging the felt, if it's original bitumen stuff vs new membrane, so I'd avoid that tbh and just get a price supply and fit for the blown bonded beads, and carry on foaming gaps and fitting new plasterboard etc internally.

There's a crack over the rear doorway too?

That cracks looking like something worse than just the effects of a leak?! Is the rear an extension?

T not allowed as the change of direction at the base of a stack, unless it’s above the rest bend, so you can add a 110mm connector which has the rodding access on it, then have the rest bend.

Looks good to me. When your ready to pour the SLC bump the thread and we’ll give you some pointers to make that as simple as possible.

If this is over 45-50m then you really shouldn’t be exporting the earth? What’s your sparky got to say about this?

He was a penis then.

Yup. Electrician is not shining here tbh.

Ok. Hold the press, ffs. With a Wago, not his budget 2nd cousin, you lift the lever and it stays there. Then you insert the cable, viewing through the clear body to confirm that had arrived safely to the required insert depth, and THEN, you flick the lever over. Just so I can sleep tonight, what bit is the clever bit that the sparky did….?

Doesn’t that promote an ethos of “why bother”? If you run your site properly and educate the trades then you’ll find the majority are receptive. If people on your site are performing less than admirably, then I attribute this to poor leadership. Explaining that poor results or ignorance/slovenliness have consequences to them will address this quite significantly and reduce the problem. Also, telling trades to work slower and more meticulously, and that you accept the marginal uplift in costs for this to be observed, yields far better results imho. Can you elaborate please?

Sorry. A knee jerk response, as you have a sealed compartment wrt roof above/floor below, ergo far less to detail vs a domestic residence.