Nickfromwales

35 years ago I walked for 40 mins in the rain, after dark, to knock my mates door to see if he wanted to come out, only to be told by his mother that he's done the same thing with a different mate, so I'd guess which one and keep walking. I'd have killed to be able to send a text lol, and asking to use the house phone got the death stare. You're having tech anyways, so.....why buy 'OK' for £200 when 'shit-hot' is another £100? (in the grand scheme of course!). Time flies and tech gets old quick, but I bet your car has got ABS You could live without a mobile and without WiFi.

WiFi 7 is the bomb. I just moved people into a new build and the WiFi is crazy good. >300m2 L shaped house and only 2 WAP's (Ubiquiti) and great results tbh. Will be changing my 6's to 7's asap, night and day different imho.

Yup, great stuff. Happy days.

Dangerously close to cross dressing lol. But yea, just on the ends and one side where the prevailing weather hits it hard. Will make a big difference as otherwise it blows a hoolie through a ‘van.

Dry lay over the dilute prime is fine, prime neat as you go, per m2, is what I always do. If the MIs tell you to prime 2 layers and leave to dry before tiling then follow those instructions. Then have a sponge with a 50/50 primer water mix on a damp sponge to spot clean each m2 as you lay the adhesive.

The trays from GSE and Easy roof are all lagging well behind vs the panel manufacturers. Just a great example of the left and right hands not being from the same body!

Good darts! Some may say "a feature". Bloody good forum is this.

A very light gauge membrane will be necessary unless you go for a dry (aka traditional) screed. The perimeter expansion skirting that you put around the room will come with a similar gauge membrane attached that drops down and the you tape the two together. Depends on the slab and how many breaks there are. If none you can do what I did for the job with the pics above and just tape the expansion skirting membrane to the screed, and then no membrane is needed for the main areas. The volumizer is usually only necessary when the heat circuit is short or the rate at which the energy can be consumed is low, so if the rads are always on an running whenever UFH is on you could possibly get away with it, but when designing a system you MUST always specify it for the absolute worst case scenario so it can cope (and comply with the boiler MI's which will ask you to connect the appliance to a system that compliments it sympathetically, eg removes the possibility of it ever routinely short-cycling).

It does diddly squat really, but I fit them and then drill down through the wood with a 3mm drill bit, into the far left and far right ends, and fit 50x 5.0 woodscrews in to give me timber > metal fixing points. The point load rating you should be looking for is based on 80 stone of (impact) bodyweight iirc, eg someone falling / stumbling backwards and landing on the pan; possibly to compensate for the varying size and shape of the general population and encompasses some headroom for someone who likes a pie or two (or seven) 'coming in for landing' at too high a rate of knots. I take the cisterns out, clips are quick-release both sides, use a wood chisel or similar. Then I drill a few holes through the steel frame, more to the top to counter where all the loads are most problematic, and the screw from the inside of the frame to the side timbers; I fortify this with some no nails or CT1, whichever is in the gun. Is that a bit OTT, prob, have I ever had someone come back and say it moved, never; and I've fitted LOADS of them.

In the winter make a skirt for it, as these things are bloody baltic cold in the winter unless you've got gas CH and it's on constant. Stayed in one massive one on hols, not in winter, with oil filled radiators.....and wife was paranoid the gas fire would kill us all in our sleep so that was only in use when we were conscious. NEVER EVER AGAIN.

I'd get a pump matched to the OEM and speak to technical to see if they can share the same PWM feed cable. If not, then you'll need a dumb-ish pump that is somehow hydraulically separated from the OEM unit, prob achievable by a small low loss header. LINK

If you use 2 runs of steel and 3 timbers you may be able to reduce the profile. @Gus Potter?

Yup, at 50mm you just know. It's like when you have floating wooden flooring vs when it's been bonded down.

🙄 ffs. Sorry, I promise to never make such a mistake again, for at least the next 15 mins or so.... Different sized houses at the same standard give different results @50pa, but when over twice as good as the coveted PH standard I guess I expected a bit of praise, not the 'incorrectly diminishing number' firing squad lol. It wasn't that I got better or worse over time, as these are (were) all shit-hot results!!

I very much disagree.... you not had your full daily intake of pastry yet?

Yup. An age old thing, so if they start spitting water out it doesn't go all over the attic. As for the leak, these do flex and move about, and if they've been in for 30 years you've had "value for money" lol. Given the amount of water, and where these are, I'd put my hand in my pocket and get them both replaced immediately / local plumbing refreshed. Then enjoy another 30 years. In my experience, disturbing one and leaving the other often causes the other to leak. I think it's a pact that these things have, written in ancient transcripts by aliens who visited from far away, because old plumbing stuff just seems to hate to be interfered with. By the time you've got the plumber there changing the 1st tank, you're not looking at too much more to get it all up to scratch and all nice and new.

I did plant room & M&E on what was essentially a 6 bedroom bungalow (split level) and they had spent £100k on 1st and 2nd fix plumbing. What a shower of shite, and they said they were experts. In their small-print was a statement that they couldn't guarantee results as they weren't doing the plant room / end equipment etc. Client then told me it was over their heads and they refused to quote for it..... 2000L of stored pressurised cold mains in the garage (detached) and then found the 32mm pipe that appeared each end actually then reduced to 25mm for the 75-80m between the buildings ffs. Told the client to dig it out and swap it to a 50mm run, and then the showers all worked in unison. No duct for ASHP or GSHP so we ended up having to install a 3phase electric boiler as no gas on site.

140/60 would be fine. A common misconception. A 50mm screed will be fine, just more often than not anyone tiling over it would insist in a decoupling membrane to cover their arses. The thicker the screed the longer to heat up, and at 50mm you'll be able to turn them on/off with reasonably accuracy without any issues, as they'll act a bit like a radiator would in the same room, just the end result would be far more comfortable. I've had my screeder lay from 50mm all the way down to 10mm, primer bonded, with a dry mix S&C screed, and we tile straight onto that with BAL ultra flex adhesive, only one tile hairline cracked and that was where the new UF heated floor met the existing original concrete slab (as I was young and still a bit wet behind the ears and didn't allow an expansion / break there.

Cheap lino for now, and it'll be warmer underfoot when the heating's not on.

+1, I've done M&E for a load of their build clients, and have had 0.25, 0.26, and 0.27 ACH from their 300mm blown frame PH offerings, very good build quality, and they will put that up for you over 2 long lunch breaks.....SERIOUSLY fast build program, but seamless too as they do turnkey foundations and frame. That means that the frame goes into production whilst your slab is being installed vs other TF companies who will tell you to do the slab first, come out and measure, then put you in the queue for production. SIP's is quite acoustically transparent too, for anything less than 180mm / 200mm, whereas the blown cellulose TF offerings are graveyard quiet imho.

I'm not, hence.... Erm, why are you still messing with this, sorry! Get a sparky in, chop-chop

👇 👍 😎

Some do and some don’t so you may want to just look for one either way an external pump if worried, but upsizing the pipework to maybe 35mm should remove the issue of the additional hydraulic resistance, (meaning you can have the pump wherever, but more importantly you won’t have to be worried that you’re then wedded to that particular OEM pump (and its performance not being inadequate))

Always a pleasure never a chore, lol. Plus my OCD often sees me stealth-editing. My turn to construct something is WAY off lol, I just to work for others who are doing it a lot (and now don't make the mistake of showing the wife!!).