Nickfromwales

BH policy sorry. You can ask for an amendment any time you wish, just shout I have edited the post for you. 👍 I think the timeout for editing is 20 mins. @MikeSharp01?

Not a chance, matey. You would set all the joists out on the floor, twang a string line down each 1/3 point and then pre-drill for small bore services BEFORE installing . 3x 25mm holes down one end for electrics, 4x down the other for plumbing / other electrical / miscellaneous. Oh, and yes, fit the solid timbers in at 200mm oc and move on with life. It's not going to go anywhere, and as you say, it's perfectly DIY'able.

Bruce, CT1 ffs, silicone is naff on a good day.

Buy and fit one of these and then you're safe for the immediate concern, but tbh that cupboard is a whole lot of "no go" for little fingers so best to get a lock on it if you're that worried. LINK Get an electrician out to make it safe ASAP, or maybe ask them to put an outside socket on it for you if that would be useful where the cable is?

LINK You will also need to use a primer for the concrete, before wasting one of these grommets and finding out the expensive way. This is only recommended in acceptance of the fact that your man is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay OTT. A good frame sealant etc will suffice here tbh, but best to be a good boy and do as one is asked.. Give the concrete a good scrub with a hand brush and then give a squirt of this, being careful not to be wasteful. LINK This is usually just for noise, so some Knauf acoustic mineral wool (rockwool etc) usually gets stuffed around the pipe at 100mm thickness to prevent the noise of flushed water creating nuisance noise to the room.

You could try to strip it down and clean the flow switch(es), see if YT has a video on how-to, but these things just don't last forever. Defo sounds like a flow switch issue, so if that turns out to be a serviceable / replaceable part and it's cheap, then you may as well go for a fix (but that's on the proviso that the pump runs quietly and doesn't sound like it is dying elsewhere too).

@MikeSharp01 A shit pic, but shows the final fitment and a decent fall. Nothing went anywhere other than downhill I assure you 🤣

The pan connector was laying on the floor It was later lifted up and into the receiver, and clipped in, locking it into place with a fall. I put some membrane against the wall, and pumped a load of foam under and behind the flexi so it couldn't ever drop / droop with time and use etc. I only used a flexi there as 2x 45 or 30 or even 15 degree bends couldn't get me lined up right for a rigid installation.

Yes, it still functions even when screwed down, but a proper setup sees the floor floating iirc. See the manufacturers YT videos for install techniques

Yup.

The foam strips compress down to a few mm, so no probs there.

Just remember to apply a dilute mix of water / primer before you prime undiluted. I use a proper janitors mop and really go to town, with the dilute primer solution being left to saturate the screed / slab and soak right in. Then back mop to get rid of any that’s pooled anywhere and leave to dry for a few hours before final priming. You should be priming immediately prior to laying, and never leaving this down first days to become contaminated. Specialist primers will come with instructions, follow those in that instance.

Yes to location, and direct off unit / before manifold ✔️ Do not use the flexible attenuators (flexi duct) as they’re just a cheap rubbish solution in comparison to using the rigid attenuators. I oversize these to max out on the acoustic benefits, but this obvs depends on a) how the design pressures would otherwise affect the audibility and by how much you then need to arrest it, and b) the length of the attenuator that you then need to do so. On a previous MVHR install the client wanted a lot of cooling to the 4 upstairs bedrooms, rear of the house with loads of glazing facing absolute south. After the explanation, that they would need elevated fan speed to effect cooling via MVHR, they opted to beef these up and we put 1000mm long ones in vs the usual 500(?)mm ones. One of the other ways to cheat this problem is to do what I do and jump up one size of unit to get the bigger ports / ducting; if a 325 unit will suffice I oversize to a 400 as this gives you much lower fan speeds and pressure, but also you jump from 150mm ducts to 180mm ones, further benefitting the occupants. This (imo) promotes longevity, as the fan is doing a much easier job, but also the longer heat stays in the heat exchanger the better the heat recovery should be (unless someone tells me different?). Budget MVHR doesn’t always work well, more just that it “functions” to tick a box. One of the places I wouldn’t skimp, certainly not with a flexible ‘silencer’!

Hi. Answers will be along shortly I’ve just removed the duplicate thread as otherwise you’ll just have a volley of replies across both which is a bit messy

Any bare concrete will have dust / other surface contaminants so you primer that before laying any kind of screed or adhesive at a thickness of less that 50mm (normally above that you won’t need to prime but the installers would usually decide this). If you pour some screed onto a dry slab you’ll likely be able to chip it back off in one piece as it’ll have just adhered to the surface dust etc. A bit like you greasing a cake tin. The clip rails add to the mix as they provide a mechanical connection, but should not really be relied on as the only measure. Thin screed systems <30mm need a specialist primer which stays tacky for a long time. Boilers modulate, a bit like you controlling a light with a dimmer switch, so they can match the heat demand as closely as is possible. To drive a non modern boiler into UFH you’ll likely force some short cycling, the boiler repeatedly lights, heats up, can’t get rid of enough heat so hits the internal stat set point, then waits to cool slightly, then lights again, and repeat. That’s can lead to reduced longevity and much deceased efficiency. A buffer / volumiser adds a runoff volume of water, if you think of heat as air, it’s like you blowing up a balloon quickly, and then just letting the air out slowly over the next 10 mins, then repeating, therefore taking the ‘short’ out of short cycling. That make sense?

Hi. What are the floor coverings going to be in those rooms? I assume you’re lifting the floorboards to do the work and install acoustic insulation, and if so you can start by putting 50mm wide acoustic strips on top of the joists for the new floorboards to sit on. Depends really on how ‘mad’ you want to go, but you’ll need to be cautious of what insulation you pack around electric cables / light fittings etc, but the more acoustic insulation the merrier obvs.

I went to one gypsum laid job where almost the entire ground floor of tiles had separated. You could lift a few m2 by putting a chisel under the tile that was centred in the doorway to the wooden floor of the living room. It had been primer coated too, but it was the primer + adhesive + tile that was loose, zero had stuck to the screed so I assume they’d not scraped / mechanically prepped it at all.

Dry sand & cement? Or gypsum? Yup, and the Adrex (A35 iirc) stuff is too expensive to compete against. Undeniably good stuff though, and can take ceramic tiles 45 mins after laying at 80mm. I cheated by laying porcelain the same day, but insisted that the grout was done 7 days later......still alive to tell the tale

I disagree wholeheartedly, sorry!!!! That is a bag of shite, and even Stevie Wonder would agree.

There are an alarming number of dwellings that have had EPS EWI applied, that are now displaying huge amounts of damp and mould growth on the interior surfaces of the external walls, literally stopping at the party wall. This is down to rain getting in at the top, or air convection (aka thermal tenting) happening from the bottom to the top, with the moisture then being harboured by it condensing and then being trapped with nowhere else to go than into the fabric of the house. Do this properly or receive the consequences!

In a real life situation, in a 2013 B regs build which will be poorly insulated and very draughty (sorry OP), I think it will be an absolute necessity to guarantee rooms achieve the desired temps and then stay there. This advice is case specific to this thread and OP, and reflects the unknowns, build fabric, and different floor coverings. Balancing this, room by room, via flow rates on the manifold....... is just going to be wishful thinking afaic. £400 to assure you of excellent boiler longevity, and user comfort? Money very well spent IMHO. "This ain't no passive house baby!" edit: closer to £800 tbh with buffer and plumbing alterations, but I still would recommend this in a heartbeat.

☝️ 👌

Why not use cementitious self-levelling screed and have zero of the above? @nod what say you?

Punishable by a full 5 mins on the naughty step 👉 No probs, I'll cancel the cavalry

Are you intending to stand the first saleable property away from the existing connection for the farm and solar array? Is the plan / assumption to only be tethering the house you build for yourselves to that? I'd assume that connection has plenty of headroom for the second dwelling too. The DNO will need to be approached for this, as we can only procrastinate tbh, but I'd have thought there would be no issue with them digging down and splicing the new feed cable from the HV transformer to create the additional connection and supply cable for the immediate needs.