Nickfromwales

You should be measuring the old unit, and then getting a direct replacement based of that.

@Silly Man Anything worse than <1.0 ACH and I'd not bother with MVHR for HR. It's just such slow airflow that the natural rates of infiltration may exceed the flow rates of the MVHR, so just an expensive ornament at that point, and one that'll be pumping cold air into living spaces and bedrooms all winter. Airtightness is #1 on the list, insulation comes after that AFAIC. You can have 1000mm of insulation, but in a draughty house it will still leave you feeling the cold with a big heating bill. Don't forget that if you decide to bite down hard on this subject, which I absolutely think you should, then you can talk to your doors and windows supplier to make sure they don't install trickle vents. If you can get the contractor to follow some basic methodology and build standards from the outset, then getting AeroBarrier involved will get you the AT result that you are possibly, currently thinking is out of reach. If you coordinate this well from Day 1 then you can achieve excellent results for very little extra £££.

AKA cable entry / stuffing glands. I use these exact same boxes on outdoorsy stuff, and like the fact the lids are click on / off. I always set the box in place, drill the fixings holes, and then remove. Then I apply a bit of CT1 to the holes and put the box back in place so the screws go through wet CT1 for belt & braces; even more so if the box is subject to driving rain. Apply just enough so that it gets displaced and comes through the fixing holes. You'll notice the 4 square tabs that are visible at the centre of each side. Ironically, these are drain holes, and you should punch out whichever one is the lowest point of the box, when mounted. This allows any water or moisture to escape in the event of some getting in there, howsoever. Basically so the box cannot slowly fill with water /moisture over time. I also seal 3 sides around with the same clear CT1, but never do the bottom edge, for the same reason so that any water that gets behind can run down and out.

Sacrificial, as it's part of the manufacturing process where the material is injected.

Great progress.

Expensive for what it is TBH. Check out Air-Haus.com for the price on a Brink 450 for comparison. I've been installing them for years, mostly on PH or thereabouts level projects (well insulated, very airtight (<0.6ach)) with excellent results. You'll have to pay for a design that's worth the paper it's on, but most will QS for a system based on a very rudimentary design (they keep possession of it) from your PP drawings, to provide an indicative quote, so you can get a yardstick. Some will only price design, supply, and fit, some design, supply and commission for eg. CVC in Oxford designed and supplied for all my jobs, and are knowledgeable and helpful.

Yup. 👍

No worries, just it’s a lot of money down the tubes potentially.

If it’s a smaller house they can look out of place, especially within eyesight of other 30” doors. In a bigger house the bigger doors are usually favoured as they look to be in perspective.

Hi. Have you explored options here for you to possibly become VAT exempt (zero rated) for your project?

+1. Smut hidden.

Easy enough. Just take the 2 sides and the head out, and then push the window very gently (you need two people for this, both wearing gloves and goggles), and lift it up and out. Then, once the unit is out, you can pry out the remaining bottom seal. This you should be able to persuade back in afterwards, but remember to use a block of wood and never hit the moulding directly with a regular hammer (rubber or nylon faced hammers are typically in the window fitter arsenal ).

OK, stupid question maybe, but why block when it could be insulation and thin coat? What's the spec for cold bridge mitigation at the cavity, where it meets the posi's, if you go block?

You can’t build just for yourself, there’s all kinds of nonsense that can catch you out, things ‘they’ want you to do/install/future-proof against etc.

The part where it’s complete is not sat on the padstone. The T that’s been left is the end load bearing bit. Quite hard to comprehend that someone would do this to a steel specified by an SE!

If this is disabled “adaptable” vs “visitable” then they may want a 33” door on at least one bedroom and the FF bathroom, if there’s one. A job I did a while back had this classification and we had to swap a 30” door on the bathroom and put a 33” one in. 2 winders on the staircase, so I asked how the feck is somebody in a wheelchair getting up there?? Just crazy. If a wheelchair user bought the house then it would need a lift installing, which means a refurb. BCO in Gravenhill wanted a visitor in a wheelchair to be able to access the CU!?! WTF….. clueless tossers at that site.

Have you tried it with the link out?

@Gus Potter, has this steel just been destroyed by the undercut and diminished web?

Says to link t3 and t4 at the boiler to ‘reset’. Best to try and default it all, but likely a call to tech support will sort it while you’re there.

One get out of jail option here is to leave it on an MCB, and fit an RCD socket. If the ‘dodgy’ cable is to be left on for any amount of time. Link Sounds like this is a split load board from previous comments? If so, and it’s “high integrity” you can put an MCB before the RCD, same thing if it’s a dual RCD CU. No more nuisance tripping then.

Have you tried lowering the DHW set temp to its lowest setting in case DHW priority is blocking it? Is the boiler cycling back>forth the cylinder?

Just to clarify, the FCU is not needed, just go straight from C > C2.

Did much the same thing testing an in-screed wire heater. 30m of a 50m extension lead rolled out from the site cabin and left to run for a couple of hours. Centre of the plug top which I’d put onto the heater wire was just bubbling like a pot on a stove, had a molten middle with a small swirl of smoke rising from it. Only 1800w combined, but constant. Cooked the lot. Heating worked well btw

I feel like we’ve just time-warped! I guess I was replying whilst it was being skimmed lol. 🤷‍♂️🙃 Looks good, happy days.