Nickfromwales

Pasquill have defo stepped up to the plate. Kudos to them and their aftercare/customer support.

Here, I do all RCBO CU’s, and enjoy the same luxury, only better. If an earth fault occurs in your scenario then all the MCB’s get disconnected. In mine only one offending circuit dies. One, not multiples of. Sorry, but there’s zero comparison.

Oh, and you only use end crimps (aka bootlace ferules) with screw down connectors such as.....choc blocks. Stranded cable just gets a twist to straighten it up.

You sir, have CLEARLY not made off enough choc blocks in your time to appreciate the 19th wonder of the world, the lever connector. I suggest you go and kneel on some pencils for such blasphemy, and repent.

It's a masonry cavity wall I assume, so not practicable?

Been using Ultra for years, great stuff.

Should mean you don't need to be asking here? Why has he asked you for a cable that isn't available? Is the pod to be metal clad (standing seam)?

If you start fitting 2x RCBO's for 1x room, I will drive there and thrash you. "NO".

Where is the non return valve? They're the cause of this noise if they start to go U/S.

You can put anything you like as the external rain screen with TF.

That's not so bad, you'll have wonderful breakfasts!

+1

Any decent carpenter/joiner should be able to assess this for you, and declare whether it can be saved or is too far gone? Specialist will prob look to make a meal out of it.

Erm, so basically zero comparison lol Did you fit normal extractor fans though?

Ok, thanks. Have you heard of AeroBarrier UK? Probably ideal for you to get <1 ACH. This is a bit of a cop-out afaic..... <1 should be achievable if you know where to focus your attention during the early part of the construction phase. I've done builds down as far as 0.27 ACH, and with not a huge amount of additional time/money etc, just attention to detail and a bit of experience/tenacity. Most of my M&E projects have been new builds, ICF and TF, but there are a few on here who have gone down the traditional masonry route and done very well.

Has anyone mentioned mechanical ventilation or trickle vents to you, or the ideal which is installing MVHR, or do you already have this planned? You're building to (N)ZEB?

Criteria will be that the chamber and rodding point must be in a straight line of sight. If not, they can ask for you to have rodding access from either side (up and down stream) of it.

You can spray this with a closed cell foam, and it'll do a better job than trying the PITA and knuckle-scraping with membrane and tape. https://insulation-more.co.uk/products/soudal-soudafoam-maxtwo-polyurethane-spray-foam-insulation-kits-complete-sets

A diagram with some idea of layout etc would really help folk to comment further. Just pen and paper is fine.

Ok, thanks. One option is to remove the alarm box and have somebody blow bonded EPS beads into the cavity to finish it off. Gives better draught prevention, and will push down into any gaps in the existing insulation. Once done, alarm box goes back on to cover the hole required to inject.

A is best IMHO. What is your plan for AT everywhere else? What is the house (brick and block?) as you may be better off going straight to AeroBarrier after you've done the membrane at the ceiling and you've foamed around windows etc. Next question would be about AT at the ground floor...

Cemfloor (cementitious) screed is good, or a dry sand/cement if going thicker (65mm minimum for dry is advisable). Cemfloor is happy being laid as thin as 50mm, and is quick to go down; levels very well if you have a good installer, but doesn't just flow and level 'by itself'.

Is that room really 1700mm wide?

We've done solar reflective glazing for a few clients builds, works far better than I first thought it would. Part O compliance will be a big thing for this design, if you want to keep all the glazing for the views/personal preference etc, but it is a LOT of glass tbh. Defo look at installing an ASHP so you can get cooling via chilled water > UFH and air handling. Either that or you're likely to need air conditioning in the upstairs rooms to make them tolerable during the peak of summer. Heating a well insulated, airtight house is a doddle in comparison to keeping it cool

If you 'can' PM it, that is