Nickfromwales

Or just say my name three times @KJL, are you referring to the clip rails or the individual clips? If the latter, they’re just 16mm “nail clips” from any decent merchant and come in bags or boxes of 100. https://amzn.eu/d/amdxnLI 👍 That job had posi joists at 400mm not 600mm, and were designed at the pre-construction phase for the weight of the screed. It was Cemfloor cementitious liquid screed. It’s very solid underfoot now, but still not “concrete solid”.

You'd both be lucky to have me....ffs

£20 is £20

A lot of partial water changes will be necessary to keep this anywhere near healthy and stable tbh. If you’ve a heat pump > UVC then just dumping that into the ‘pool’ would be the easiest and reasonably efficient way of just knocking the chill off the water. Having this heated is going to be a big uplift in cost to maintain, so prob best to set your expectations accordingly. As 👆 but with the caveat that we see value in doing what puts a smile on our kids faces. If any of this is offset by off peak electricity or micro-generation then I could live with it tbh. If it was mine, I’d have a blended valve with a timer and solenoid for filling, with a dedicated outside tap and a hose to the pool. Then I’d partially empty it each evening when in use and then maybe overheat heat it from midnight - 05:00. That would be in conjunction with a good cover on and a good quality local pump and filter being on and regularly cleaned. Otherwise this will quickly become a vat of unhealthy (invisibly so) goop which my kids would be told to avoid. I fitted a 19’ x 5’ above ground heated pool for a client, tiered garden which we reduced at the end so the pool was 4’ below ground and wrapped by a deck, was a nice thing to have if you could afford it. I put up a dedicated ‘shed’ for the boiler and pump house and sand / cartridge filter etc etc and the cost was thousands to get this all right. Unfortunately you’re either dedicating your life and time to this with a big investment in infrastructure, or just emptying and filling with potable (already mildly chlorinated) water prior to use, on demand, and sucking up the cost to provide the heat and the water. Any heated, maintained pool is a money pit and is hugely time / attention hungry. Hot tub owners are one of 2 people; lazy smelly buggers who don’t care and keep adding more chemicals, or immaculate and particular folk who keep the unit spotless, clean, and healthy, and pay the price and have the time. Oh, and with kids, I’d NEVER entertain putting an electric heater into the pool….. The only place for a certified inline electric heater is on the return of the pumped filtered loop, but then you’d just bite the bullet and use a cheap pool ASHP so the running costs were 1:3 / 1:4 which isn’t too bad. Again, used pre 05:00 to do the bulk of the heavy lifting to further reduce costs. @SteamyTea how long would the temp need to be at 45°C (or more?) to do a legionella purge for the 3.5m x 1m pool volume?

If you leave the unwanted text and hit refresh on the browser you’ll return to an empty text editor box. When you click on it to make the comment again you’ll see the text reappear and an option to restore that text or ‘clear editor’, so click on clear and the text will all disappear 👍.

Yup. For stuff which you cannot go back to, it is sensible to only use quality, industry standard stuff every time.

I think that would be a "yes", as there has. Just another BS government 'initiative', with MCS being equally as w4nk as the FIT, et-al. And we vote for these people......... (well, not me anyways).

Pan a sonic. #subliminalmessage Cylinders2go for UVC. Fired up another Panasonic today, still very happy with how quiet and cost-effective these are for a simple install. And cool capable straight out of the box.

Time to discover timber methinks, all you masonry addicts! Even load-bearing walls can be done well in timber….. why make life any harder than it already is? 😑😌

Went to get his hair done and a manicure! 💅 obvs. 🙄

Open vented?

Cut back the XPS and set Compacfoam in. I did this with a 4.9m slider, and set the Compacfoam in with flexible tile adhesive so I could tap it gently to level and set the required depth with great accuracy. This isn’t about point loading, so doesn’t need such drastic work-arounds tbh.

I’ve only now got used to pronouncing Welsh words after 50 years of it, lol. Welcome and thanks for sharing your project. 👍

You should thank your guys, they’re doing a very good job there. The female up theory is not ever what happens, and open pipe always gets cut and then a fitting placed on to it to carry on above the slab. Stand back and enjoy as the magic happens, and buy them a few slabs of beer as a thank you. Seems to be very meticulous work compared to some of the muppets I’ve encountered out there

Wet what please? Exact type (cementitious or gypsum or dry S&C) plz?

I have to build up the levels to achieve the floor level and I’m using UFH. Figured we could use cheap EPS to hit two birds with one stone. Labour cost is the same. Small uplift in material cost for EPS/stone Ah, makes sense, sorry. Focus on taping up well to prevent ANY airflow between boards and rafters. If you can add 25mm to the interior face to stave off the repeat cold bridging then that would be the cherry on the cake, and PIR weighs next to nothing so shouldn’t affect those maths.

I have worked for a few exactly as described above, and they are lower to the ground than a slugs ball-sack tbh. Big smiles, "can you do x,y,z", I carry on on good faith and then the bullshit and excuses begin..... There are 2 in particular who I hope d1e soon. Everyone sympathises with clients and little GAF is given to the contractor when the offending clients pop out a few crocodile tears. Nothing satisfies more than them falling on their own sword; when the case is genuine of course. I equally hate people being taken advantage of when they need a decent tradesperson to look after them. @Buildmeup, you can't come on here and actually name or pick someone out, unfortunately, but I completely get where you are coming from. I have been left with zero option other than to assume everyone will do you over, which is a sad state of affairs......but it does allow you to change the way you do business and learn (the hard way) from your mistakes. "What doesn't kill you..." or so they say!

From the 'net: We’re aware that some people focus on the pillars (“dots”) and they can become an objection to using this glass. Let us delve a little closer into why they should not be the focus of rejecting such ground breaking insulating glass: The pillars are very small and back a very short distance from glass cannot even be seen. Window are designed to be looked through to the outside view. Therefore our focus is through the glass not on the glass. If you focus on any type of glass you will see blemishes, dirt, dust, road grime, smudges, finger prints, maybe scratches and even bird poop! The two points below are also crucial considerations to weigh up “can I live with new space aged glass and its benefits if I can see some small dots when I walk up close to the glass”? Conventional rubber sealed double glazing has a very thick black rubber seal and its prone to breaking down, and the seal is very visible, whereas vacuum insulated glass is thin, it fits into windows and it has an edge seal that adds strength, longevity and you cannot see it. No double glazing will provide the level of thermal efficiency any where near that of xxx vacuum insulated double glazing.

Complete and utter insanity on a biblical scale. Conservation officer needs a reality check on what the planet needs moving forwards, other than his short 'tache and raised right hand. Bonkers.

and ? Passive in the slab and a bit poor where the heat rises and wants to escape?

You didn't say how modest I am?!

Then defo foam it all and let the foam ooze a little to the top. Leave to cure and cut back with a sharp knife or saw, with the cut benched up a little to leave you something to seal to. Wet the area thoroughly with a brush and some 50/50 PVA/water solution and install the foam whilst that is wet (it helps the foam to stick and also allows the PU (moisture cure) to cure without voids etc). Then get some brush on Passive Purple liquid airtight membrane; speak to Adam White of Intelligent Membranes to check if it's worth priming first, but IIRC you can apply that straight to the parge and the plywood. Use a sponge and clean water to rub any residual dust / contaminants off the plywood, do a good job of this, and then use a bit more of that PVA solution to size the plywood (leave it to dry this time). Use a good few coats of the PP where it crosses the foam and sits on the plywood, and leave to dry thoroughly before each following coat. It's really good stuff!

@Annker What are you trying to seal up in that picture? If you're planning to tape the top of those metal hangers then what about the gap on the other side of them? I think you'd be better off with a foam (FM330) here and get it in from the underside and over the top and down, to fully encapsulate the steel hanger where it is cut into the wall.