Temp

If you plan to let it all go silver its not really important. If you plan to paint it best avoid horizontal surfaces and sharp corners/edges and the paint will last longer. We have a lot of exterior oak treated with ozmo UV Protection oil to keep it honey colour and its the horizontal surfaces that go first. For the middle one I would screw up through 2 into 3. You can recess the screw head so it doesn't need to be very long. If you go for pressure treated soft wood I've found strimmers cut through the protection on fence posts and they rot out at ground level. Very noticeable as I have some posts that don't get strimmed and others that do. 9n some new posts I wrapped them them with heatshink sleeves designed for fence posts but they are messy and not sure if they work yet.

Lots of possible issues I'm afraid.. This will likely be considered a "raised platform" that requires planning permission as over 30cm? Planning permission also needed if you use any sort of non permeable surface like concrete, tarmac or paving without collecting any rainwater run off. May need some linear drains and a soakaway to prevent run off onto the road. An 80cm high retaining wall is about the limit for DIY design when it's just a lawn on top. If there is going to be a car top you probably should get it designed. Ensuring the made up ground is properly compacted will be vital or any paving or tarmac on top will sink. Building Control might also want to prevent falls over 80cm? Edit: Just noticed it's says 40cm on the image so that's a bit easier.

Some but not all thermostats have adjustable hysteresis. I think some also have anti cycling time delay built in. The overall effect is the same, you get slightly less precise temperature control. A thermal store or buffer tank stops the boiler short cycling but costs £. Another possibility is fitting a smaller jet in the burner. We did this after discovering our boiler was bit too big even in very cold weather. According to Grant the smaller jet is a bit more efficient as well. We haven't noticed issues with the smaller jet blocking. ..

We have 80mm and wish we had fitted more. If building again I think I'd fit at least 150mm.

Got a link to the manual so we can see what "100 (300)" means? Is that minimum 100mm but ideally 300mm? 100mm for a chain link fence but 300mm for a wall? Some models are designed for wall mounting where a wall in close proximity is expected. If it says the minimum distance to a wall is 100mm then it should be OK to put a tree trunk at 100mm.

I checked and you can only appeal for non-determination in the 6 months from the date your decision was due to arrive. So probably too late if the application was made 11 months ago.

Try this guide for installers... https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/sites/default/files/2022-05/Boiler Upgrade Scheme Installer Guidance.pdf Table 2 page 23

I had a quick look at the regs on what counts as a BUS heat pump and it says... https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2022/565/regulation/9/made So if you are allowed to retain an immersion heater surely you can retain the tank its in?

It's quite normal for the committee to let the PO write the actual Planning Grant and conditions but it usually happens quite quickly one they approve the application. Just keep an eye on the time limit for appealing for non determination or you loose the right and then they can take as long as they like. Appeals cost the council money so the mere threat of appealing might speed up the process.

Is there a loop pump on the manifold?

However you might come under.. I think in this case you should be charged 5% by trades, 20% on materials you buy and possibly reclaim the VAT paid on VAT431C? If that covers such a project.

+1 about not being experts on VAT but unfortunately I think HMRC are correct. Extract from VAT708 (my bold)..

This isnt my field (I'm an electronics engineer) but if the main issue is vibration you can also drill a contiguous concrete pile retaining wall then excavate.

If you get stuck you can build a retaining wall using sheet piling before removing the soil, then clad with something better looking.

Southampton? My lads going back to Southampton for his 3rd and 4th years in September.

Exactly. There is no excuse for the planning officer not to issue the planning grant after its been approved by the committee. In my area it takes ages to get planning approved but once it is the grant is normally issued within a week or 10 days. @Sam G Have you checked the web site to see if it's on there? Might have got lost in post?

It will be difficult to correct later. I'd get it sorted soon as.

So the committee voted to approve and you still don't have the planning grant? That's crazy I would appeal for non-determination and ask for costs. Beware you only have 6 months I think. I reckon the moment that's filed you will get your permission. On what possible grounds can a planning officer overule the elected committee? I suppose if there is time before the deadline you could write to the head of the planning department and head if the committee to tell them you will have to appeal for non determination if the grant isn't recieved by date. Make sure to remind them it was approved by the committee meeting months ago.

No. It used to be the case that a garage floor had to be 100mm lower but the rules changed a few years ago. It now only has to slope away from the door between the house (or utility room) and garage. See page 30 paragraph 5.5.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/485420/BR_PDF_AD_B1_2013.pdf I note there is no minimum slope specified but your BCO might want you to show that any spilt liquids flow away from the door.

They can climb up inside rainwater down pipes, along gutters and in through quite small holes in roofs (for example where pantiles meet fasia boards). Set up some rat traps in the loft where there was poo. Consider fitting leaf guards to down pipes? Edit: I forgot to mention a council rat man once told me they leave scent trails for family members to follow so after you catch one set the traps up again in same area.

Every house I've had including our selfbuild has suffered from a problem in this area. The plasterboarded ceiling shrinks and the plaster cracks where ceiling meets wall. Unfortunately the crack isn't always right at the junction. If it was it would be easy to fix. Instead its frequently a few inches down the wall in places and a strip of plaster comes away from the wall. For that reason I'm not going to suggest you fit tape over the gaps, or at least if you do I don't recommend lapping it down the wall. Any plasterers out there got a solution for this?

Are there enough wide slates for the verges etc.

Got to wonder why it was removed and replaced with steel? Perhaps it leaked because the slates are too small. I think only the headlap is critical because ultimately that's how far up the roof water has to be blown before it gets in. The batten spacing is determined by the headlap required and tile size. Google found.. https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Roof_slates I would do a mockup with 85 to 91mm headlap (instead of the 3" shown) and see what it looks like. Does it work with the holes? Check you have plenty of slate in good enough condition. Can you get more of the same size if needed? American site but.. https://www.slateassociation.org/slate-roof-condition-assessment-surveys-part-1/

Avoid cutting into the ground or dirty logs and it stays sharp much longer.

Ground floor far right hand window.