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My builder told me to choose handles that have their own return spring and not rely on the spring in the latch to lift the handle. I guess he'd seen the problem before. Google found.. https://www.morehandles.co.uk/blog/door-handle-not-springing-back-how-to-guide-from-more-handles/

I can't actually see where the problem is in the photos.

Yes that's a fairly well know gotcha. It's what I was referring to above. A loft conversions makes the house three storey and the rules on escape routes from fire are different. Typically there has to be a 30min protected escape route from the loft to an outside door on the ground floor. In most houses it just means ensuring that all doors and walls that seperate the living room and kitchen from the stairs and hallway should be 30min fire rated. In a open plan house there might be no doors or walls so no barrier between a fire in the kitchen and the escape route from the loft to the front door. Even a wall of glass blocks or doors with a lot of glass in can cause an issue. Was it already open plan or was that something the designer introduced?

Deleted as it doesn't help.

Can someone fix the spelling in the title for me.

Sorry if already posted.. https://www.current-news.co.uk/mcs-express-concern-as-octopus-drops-accreditation-requirement-from-smart-export-guarantee/ https://gtec.co.uk/clause-5-8-octopus-opens-up-the-solar-pv-market-with-a-paragraph/

Did BT demand the Modem back? I'm not familiar with the BT Modem but it might be possible to set it up for use with NowTV.

I would hope they have insurance.. https://designfor-me.com/project-types/self-build/does-my-architect-need-to-have-insurance/ But it does depends on exactly what they were tasked with doing. For example the drawings for a loft conversion might meet Buildings Regulations but the project as a whole will only meet Building Regs if the design of the fire escape route, including the ground floor layout and doors also comply.

When you say you have design and drawing experience does that include structural engineering of roofs? eg Are you familiar with the different methods used to stop a roof pushing the walls out and the ridge sagging?

So I believe you want Section 10 on Page 61 "Section 10: New elements in existing dwellings, including extensions". More specifically paragraphs 10.7 to 10.11. Subsequent paragraphs give alternative ways to comply if you have issues with the above. Table 4.2.. I'm not 100% sure how to interpret section 10.7 d(i) in your case. It looks like there will be three windows serving three rooms in the dormer. I would work out the percentage for each room individually. They must each be <25%. If not you have to do the more complicated calculations in the other parts of section 10. Paragraph 4.13 might also be helpful if you get stuck.

Yes but there was a whole rafter there before the opening for the velux was cut 🙂

Some people report drying issues with F&B. Scroll down here to the comments.. https://fromevijawithlove.com/2018/04/23/things-you-need-to-know-before-painting-with-farrow-ball/

I suspect it might just be taking a long time to dry. High humidity? Was it stirred properly? I'd give it 24-48 hours before deciding its not drying. Perhaps paint up some scrap wood with a primer (Zinsser products are good) and then the F&B. See how that turns out. If you have issues with the F&B I've had success with Rust-oleum over Zinsser on mdf. You can get small samples on Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BJ2Q1V6K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09NW4ZG4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When you cut out the rafters save the offcuts. Cut them down to form a small "rafter" that fits between the trimmer and the velux frame and supports the tile batten. It may need to be tapered in depth. Get it right and it can also support the plasterboard in the splay.

Before you start building walls work out how big the roof overhang or any gutters as that may dictate how big the gap is. If its a flat cold roof construction think about how the void will be ventilated. Sometimes one orientation for the rafters is better than the other for this because it moves where the vents will be.

Perhaps skip to about 8 min..

Im not a lighting engineer but my guide/sanity check for kitchens goes like this... lighting experts look away now :-)... Google recommends about 500 lux for a food preparation area. 500 Lux = 500 Lumens/sqm. Our kitchen is about 4x3.5 = 14sqm so my rule of thumb says we needed 14*500= 7,000 Lumens in total. We fitted 15 led rated at abut 400-450 Lumens each. That works out at about 6500 lumens. We're happy with the result but its just a simple grid of LED down lights. I choose wide beam angle bulbs to eliminate shadows and "spotty" lighting but at the expense of a bit of glare. LED Lighting tapes/strips typically quote "Lumens per meter" in the specification so you can get a rough idea how many meters of linear lighting you would need in that central rectangle. Experts will tell you this is all wrong and that beam angles, ceiling heights and the emissivity of walls matter.. but if your lighting designer says you need a very different figure for the total Lumens you can at least ask him to explain how he arrived at his figure. If he can justify it then he's probably right. You might find a company that will do you a lighting design "free" if you buy their lights?

Wish my dad was still alive. He was lighting engineer/manager at BBC and could probably make a fortune designing lighting for houses. He did some garden lighting in the 1980s tor people but was getting offered projects on £ multi million houses and was meant to be retired.

Google says you can get green oak beams upto 12m but I'm not sure what size you would need. You may also need wind braces. "Instant Oak Beam Online Quotes - up to 12.5 metre sawn to size" UK Timber Ltd https://www.uk-timber.co.uk https://www.uk-timber.co.uk/custom-cut-fresh-sawn-oak-beams

Is it a SIP roof? If so I don't think it needs any ventilation and no void to ventilate. If not a SIP is it being done under permitted development (roof less than 2.5m) or under planning permission which might allow a bit more - possibly enough for a warm roof construction. If all else fails build this version.. Run rafters front to back and put vents behind front fasia and a small rear overhang. Only needs about 25mm slot for vents.

Hope you are in good health. Remember this thread...

I checked and you are correct because no new dwelling is being constructed. If a new dwelling was being created there would be a cil liability on the 95 sqm even though it's less than 100sqm.

Caution. I might be wrong but I think they only deduct the demolished space when calculating the amount of CIL to be paid, not when working out if the "new area" is over 100 sqm. So if you were to knock down 200sqm and rebuild 250sqm they would say the new area is 250 sqm which over the 100qm so the CIL must be calculated. The amount would be calculated on 250-200= 50sqm. If you start work before claiming the exemption you loose it.

Thats OK. See section 28.. So you can dig within 3m provided you don't go deeper than the neighbours foundations.

Most rear extensions would only need a PWA if the foundations need to go deeper than your neighbours foundation (in a terrace that normally means deeper than your own) or if you were building off their extensions or something like that. What reason did the surveyor give for needing one.