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Temp

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Everything posted by Temp

  1. As I understand it the reason the membrane is deliberately allowed to droop is to prevent water from pooling above tile battens causing them to rot. If the batten presses the membrane against something like a sarking board or insulation then dirt washed down the membrane can accumulate and prevent water draining away. If the tile battens are raised up on counter battens then it's not an issue.
  2. Exactly. In addition the tile needs to overhang into the gutter by the right amount. When you move a tile to get the overhang right it's angle changes meaning the height of the fasia board needs to change. Worth making a mock up on the roof that includes several rows of tiles and short lengths of battens, the gutter, fasia and any membrane support tray. Took me a few goes to get it all looking right.
  3. If you don't get any joy out of Duisol you might care to submit a complaint to the ASA. Web sites are considered adverts and adverts must not be misleading. Can all be done online these days. You must provide a screen shot and state why you think it's misleading. They will give the company a chance to comment and for you to comment on their comment. In recent years I've made three complaints and had all upheld although one company strung out the process for a year and then withdrew their advert which meant the ASA didn't publish their findings. You don't win anything except the satisfaction that nobody else will be caught out.
  4. I believe you can indeed totally block a neighbours window provided it hasn't acquired a Right to Light under the Act with similar name.
  5. The results of the 4th test are out (Stone wool and fire retardant filler in the ACM) https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/fire-test-report-dclg-bs-8414-test-no4 It appears it may have passed the fire test but with some structural issues??? The reports are short on commentary but the web page says... "The test result shows that this combination of materials can meet the criteria set out in building regulations guidance BR 135."
  6. That was the second test in the table and yes it failed. Basically they seem to working through the most likely problem combinations first. Hopefully the next test will pass as that uses the retardant version of the cladding panel but I wouldn't bet on it.
  7. Yes. If it's a cold roof (insulation between rafters) then you need 50mm ventilated air gap between membrane and insulation.... unless the membrane is vapour permeable. If membrane is vapour permeable or it's a warm roof (insulation above rafters) you can run it over the ridge as no ventilation required (normally).
  8. The third combination from that table (ACM with fire retardant core & PIR insulation) has failed... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/fire-test-report-dclg-bs-8414-test-no3 It failed because the fire spread too much causing the test to be terminated early. One article says 13 buildings over 18 meters are affected.
  9. Yes. The verge facias and the facia at the bottom of the hip are all in the same vertical plane. One thing I found difficult was setting the height of the top of the facia - it supports the bottom tiles at the correct angle to match the rest of the roof.
  10. That took me a while to figure out as I had half length tiles at verge and ridge. I used a wooden spacer to set the batten pitch but it only has to be fractions of a mm out and by the time you get to the ridge you can be miles out. Best stop and recalculate when you are about 10-15 battens below the ridge. It's also worth making a mock up of how the ridge and eaves will go. They may not do s "Hip Apex Cap" for your ridge system. If not I think you have to cover the area with a membrane patch and then cut ridge tiles so they mitre together like a hip apex cap. Darn Peter beat me to it.
  11. Apparently it's being built for Jodie Whittaker.
  12. That's the stuff I used I think they normally recommend 3/8" which is nearer 10mm. If possible pull the cable through the duct before you drop the duct into the trench, especially if there are lot of bends.
  13. Perhaps talk to the Halifax as they say.. https://www.halifax-intermediaries.co.uk/products/mortgages/self_build/stages.aspx https://www.halifax-intermediaries.co.uk/products/mortgages/self_build/buyingtheland.aspx So suppose the plot cost £200,000 and you wanted to borrow £100,000. You could ask them for £110,000. They would release the £100,000 you need (it's less than 75% of the land value) but they would retain 10% (about £10,000) until completion. OK so not ideal but no other stage payments to worry about.
  14. I think what you want is called a "land only mortgage". Google that without quotes finds a few hits although some are aimed at farmers (eg borrow against your land to build a barn).
  15. You say some of his staff are good. Are they the ones you might need? Perhaps ask them discretely if they are full time employees or contractors and collect their business card.
  16. If the hole is a right mess drill it out (careful not to go right through?) and glue in a dowel. Usually you can get away with using a larger diameter screw or pushing match sticks into the hole with whatever glue is to hand (epoxy is best, not contact adhesive as it remains rubbery). Let the glue set up before trying to cut off any excess dowel/match sticks. Does the catch have to be in exactly the same place?
  17. This page has details of the insulation and cladding combinations being tested and approx. dates for when the results of each combination will be known. These tests are being conducted on a 9m tall mock-up with fire breaks fitted between floors. I've added the results so far released.. https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/ACM_cladding
  18. There are lots of 3kW fan heaters around that come with a standard 13A plug so it can't be too bad a problem?
  19. Osmo polyx/hard wax oil. Osmo do small 5ml samples for about £1 so cheap to test several colours or clear.. http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil
  20. Looks very neat but shouldn't there be lead soakers all down that edge?
  21. Reading this... https://www.taxinsider.co.uk/690-How_Vouchers_Affect_the_Amount_of_VAT_Due.html It says.. So the risk is that you are charged the full VAT but the store only passes VAT on the discounted rate to the HMRC. The HMRC then refuse your reclaim saying you "over paid the VAT in error". On that basis it looks like the safest route would be to get the store to only charge you VAT on the discounted value of the gift card but good luck getting them to do that. I bet they only ever charge VAT at the standard rate. Any time someone presented a discounted card they would have to change the VAT rate calculated by the till.
  22. Ah ok so it might matter if the card isn't in your name? To reclaim VAT it must be you that makes the purchase. I suppose that could make a difference. Who gets the warranty if the card isn't in your name?
  23. Why would it make a difference how you pay? Cash, credit card, Tesco club card points, shouldn't make a difference? As far as I know you just need a VAT Invoice. When I purchased stuff at BnQ and other DIY stores I just asked the lady on the till for a VAT receipt. Usually they fished out a pad and hand wrote one. Sometimes they had to call for a manager to do it. They need your address to put on it. I think HMRC accept ordinary till receipts without your address up to £30.
  24. When I purchased stuff at BnQ and other DIY stores I just asked the lady on the till for a VAT receipt. Usually they fished out a pad and hand wrote one. Sometimes they had to call for a manager to do it. They need your address to put on it.
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