Temp

They only lost because they couldn't prove the current building had been there more than four years ?

Initially this will only apply to existing blocks of flats. They plan a consultation on extending this to all detached houses. No doubt there will be a lot of restrictions if it ever happens.

This is the sign I got from the ebay link above after I painted it with Osmo UV protection oil. You can choose the font and colour of letters etc

We saw some fantastic carved oak doors in Belgium. Perhaps not the best we saw but I still had the link... https://www.dierick.be/nl/binnendeuren/handsnijwerk

Wow, this will upset some people. The devil will be in the details.. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-7518545/Families-able-add-two-storeys-home-WITHOUT-planning-permission-new-plans.html

In the video there is water coming in the top of the door. That's somewhat unusual as normally the roof overhang or gutters shelter the very top of the door to some extent. Part of the problem is that the door opens outwards so the seal probably mates against the inside of the door or wipes against the top of the door. On inward opening doors the seal can mate against the outer face of the door. Check for any gap between door and seal at tge top and fix that by raising the door if its sagged a bit. In addition I recommend fitting a weather bar with drip groove above the door to divert any rain outboard and to shelter the gap at the top of the door. This should be the width of the opening in the wall eg wider than the door. Edit to add this sketch of what I think is happening..

If there wasn't much clearance it doesn't take much movement to bind up. Should be easy to fix. Did you paint the top and bottom of the door (eg the end grain)? If not then no wonder the wood has moved.

I have seen shutters hinged in the middle so they form a bit of a room divider when open.

I switched to Plusnet but BT own them as well. Been ok so far.

I think if you went down the painted route Pear wood and MDF would be ok. Might save money painting it yourself. Minimise the number of drawers and doors, open shelves will be cheaper.

Depends on your budget. I think IKEA have simpler room dividers. At the other end of the scale a good carpentry company can make anything you want. Show them photos and have them come measure up and quote. If I had to guess I'd say a full custom job in expensive wood might be £4-6k but I'm no expert. Perhaps go visit som carpentry firms and ask to see their photo album of previous jobs.

Wonder if it's possible to hook one up to a bigger reservoir? Something like an old 47kg LPG cylinder? Then leave the compressor running for awhile before starting work.

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/private-residence-relief-hs283-self-assessment-helpsheet/hs283-private-residence-relief-2019 Only or main residence If you live in, as your home, 2 or more houses, you can only have one main residence at a time for Private Residence Relief. You can nominate which residence is to be treated as your main residence for any period. Your nomination must be made within 2 years of the date you first have a particular combination of residences. If there’s a change in your combination of residences, a new 2-year period begins. If you do not make a nomination, the question of which is your main residence will be determined on the facts.

Apparently its 36 months rather than 18 if you are disabled.

I would also avoid putting pipe where the WC pan will screw down :-) We have two rooms each with their own loop. You can feel the floor screed is cold at the doorway between the two where we have no UFH pipes. I would just make the unheated area a bit bigger than the footprint of the fridge - say 8" to 10" " around it.

I've mentioned this before but one possibility is to find out where the planning department publishes the weekly list of planning applications received. Look out for applications for Outline Planning Permission as these might be from a land owner preparing a plot for sale.

I recommend "How to find and buy a Building Plot" by Roy Speer and others. Try for the latest edition (2010?) and beware planning rules may have changed since your copy was printed The normal advice is to find a plot first then see what sort of house suits the plot. Planners like uniformity of design...except when they don't. In other words if all the houses around your plot are stone clad houses of identical design they are unlikely to allow something radically different in shape and use of materials. However if the plot is already surrounded by a variety of different contemporary/modern designs then one more might be looked on favourably. Ideally you want the plot to be at least twice the foot print of the house because later additions (sheds, garages etc) can be built without planning permission (using Permitted Development Rights) if the total built area would remain less than half the plot. Yes and no. That might be the way to get a plot for the lowest price but it's also the highest risk. No land owner sells land without considering its development potential. When you find land for sale without planning permission you have to ask yourself why on earth hasn't the seller tried to get planning permission themselves. Why sell a field for £50K when it might be worth £500,000 when it has planning permission? Perhaps they have tried and failed. You also need to beware the land banking scam - people buy a field, divide it into 20 plots and get plans for the whole site drawn up showing roads ets. Plots are sole off at a price that makes them look cheap for a plot with a promise that they will get planning permission for you. Many people have lost money and some are stuck with land they cant even get access to in order to maintain. There are safe ways to buy a plot that doesn't have permission (eg Option to purchase contracts). There are different precautions you need to take depending on the plot and what's around it.

Book them for the same day and you might be able to use the digger to fill the hole in after. The percolation test can take up to 24 hours if the soil isn't free draining and may need three holes. Plenty of sites with guidance.. http://suds-solutions.co.uk/percolation-tests/?gclid=Cj0KCQjww7HsBRDkARIsAARsIT7lTZKG8g7kZufjkhGDqfYBQ3ynNmExhNGbkmxnfjtaX7PqvZjMVW8aAjaCEALw_wcB

£350 -£550 (plus VAT) https://powerpipehr.co.uk/price-and-size/

Currently 18 months but soon reducing to 9 according to... https://www.which.co.uk/money/tax/capital-gains-tax/capital-gains-tax-on-property-avuq96u1500f#private letting relief You may have moved out but do you still use the old house (for storage?) because... So at least 9 months and up to 2 years. You only pay it on the gain in value after deducting your annual allowance.

That's just because the pipe used for a WC is 110mm. Its easier to fit a 110mm AAV to the top of the stub stack than to fit a reducer and smaller AAV.

As I recall on a new housing estate not every house needs to have an open vented stack to dissipate sewer gas. I've seen guidance that says only thing one in four must have one. I think most houses have one to prevent water being dragged out of traps as others have said. But even this isn't always a problem. It's common to find downstairs WC just go straight into the floor with no stack. @Robin Banks Do you have a mini stack like the diagram posted above? If so is the top capped off?

Tool station have a range of boots. £35.

When we purchased a house in Belgium we discovered it had a solid first floor. No creaking when someone walks about. No problem with tiles in any room you like. Cool floors in summer. Liked it so much we built a beam and block first floor when we came back to the UK. In the end its a personal preference thing. Just as some people prefer brick and block walls while others are happy with stud walls. The self build show in Brussels (called "Batibouw) had several companies promoting different ways to build solid floors.

If I understand correctly your image shows the old corner of the house. Typically that end of the beam is carrying a lot of weight and is bearing onto quite a small footprint. Sometimes a pier or post is required in addition to a pad stone. It should be possible but certainly discuss with your SE. It might depend on the condition of the existing wall/bricks. The SE may also be concerned about racking or "disproportionate collapse" issues.