Temp

Unconstitutional unless supported by real impact costs..

I've never heard of the brass MALE connectors failing in the way described. They are just tubes. Could it be faulty non-return valve in the tap? If you remove the male hose connector from the tap does the tap on its own work? Isolation valve still off?

Is it clear that it has to be the three years immediately after completion? Could be any three years? Eg years 5 to 8 ? Not everyone moves in on BC completion day.

Many people live in a rented house while self building. Technically they also have two residences.

Discuss this with the planners. It might be you just need to ask for the condition to be discharged on the grounds it is exempt citing the Act @garrymartin mentioned. If they fail to discharge or remove the condition I believe you can appeal the condition on the grounds its unenforceable. But beware of the deadline to file an appeal.

My builder made long bolts from M10 or M12 (?) threaded rod and nuts. He fixed timber to the wall with several wall anchors and the long bolts pointing out through the timber towards the WC frame. Nuts were added both sides of the WC frame to stop it moving in either direction. Needed a dry run to cut the "bolts" to the right length. And he fixed it to the stud work.

It doesn't look like the outside finish is damaged? I'd let in a block(s) of hardwood where the hinges have pulled out. Needs skilled work with a chisel. Not sure if I'd do one long block or two shorter blocks. They would be few mm narrower than the existing so the external finish would be preserved. You could probably find someone to fix it for you. Perhaps see if there is a local woodwork club.

@LeeVanCleef Find out if the local authority has a guide or a Local plan. Google it. Its likely to be on their website. Here is one example.. https://www.dumgal.gov.uk/media/22633/Housing-in-the-Countryside/pdf/Housing_in_the_Countryside_February_SG_LDP2_Adopted.pdf You also need to think about access to services like water and electricity. Can be prohibitivly expensive to run these to a remote site.

I believe "Self Builds and Custom Build Developments" continue to be exempt. The rules published in Nov 2023 included exemptions for "Small Developments" and "Self Builders and Custom Build Developments". In April 24 the document here.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/biodiversity-net-gain-exempt-developments was updated to remove /the exemption for "Small Developments" but the document still contains the exemption for "Self Builder and Custom Build Developments". Eg it still contains this exemption...

I ended up making my own. We have had inset basin and counter top styles before and I much prefer this style now. Much easier to keep clean.

I've only had a quick look at the docs but I would resubmit the application that expired in 2022. Then or at same time submit plans for a room in roof style house.

No, Building Notice vs Full Plans is nothing to do with Planning Permission.

I remember reading that in VAT 708. At the time I wondered if it was intended to refer to people converting a garage roof space to a habitable room in the grounds of an already constructed house. That wouldn't be zero rated for the same reason as an extension or alteration. However I've just looked for in in VAT 708 and can't find it. Has it been removed or did I miss it? I looked at all 48 instances of the word "garage" and 5 of the word "above".

Historically a single 2+E has been run down to switches. The blue (Neutral) wire in this is sleeved brown and used to provide switched live back up to the light fitting. This means there is no Neutral wire at the switch. Most dimmers don't need a Neutral but I think some home automation devices may require one. I'd use 3+E. An extra wire is also needed where you have two way switching (two switches controlling the same lights). These switches need Live, two Switched Lives and possibly a Neutral. Total 4+E, normally done as Two 2+E ?

Think you might need two layers of plasterboard under the beam to meet fire regs? Otherwise I can't see anything technically wrong.

+1 The problem with spray foam in roofs... Water vapour from the house that gets into the loft must be ventilated out or you get condensation and rot. Some roof membranes, particularly on older houses, are vapour impermeable. This means it can't escape through the membrane so vents are provided at the eaves. They are designed so that air goes in one side, across the loft and out the other side taking water vapour with it. When conventional sheet insulation (PIR, PUR etc) is installed at rafter level it's normal to leave a 50mm ventilated void between the membrane and the insulation. Air goes in the eaves, up this void and out at vents at the ridge. If you just spray foam onto the membrane there is no ventilated void. No way for the water vapour to escape. There is a risk of condensation causing the raters to rot. In some houses there is no membrane and the foam is sprayed onto the underside of the tiles and around tile battens, this can also trap water against the battens causing them to rot. If spray foam companies were to fit some sort of tunnel or spacer between rafters to preserve a ventilation gap before applying spray foam there might be a way to use it without creating a condensation risk. Unfortunately the appeal of spray foam is the speed of application and fitting these spacers would detract from that. Scaffolding would also be required to provide vents at the ridge, in many cases the ridge would need replacing to provide vents. Mortgage companies have woken up to the issue spray foam can cause and many now won't lend against properties where spray foam has been used, even if used correctly. This has nothing to do with cans of spray foam used to seal around doors and windows or cavity wall insulation.

We've had a Visonic for 15+years. The indoor wireless "Quad" PIR sensors have very good battery life if you turn off the optional red flashing LED in them. The control panel on ours has way too many modes and options for most people. They have key fobs for arming/disarming like a car so you don't really need a key pad.

Welcome to the forum.

Do we see large housing estates with heat pumps yet?

What would Electric (eg Fan heaters) with a a battery to time shift look like?

Might not be criminal damage if your contract says all materials supplied remain your property until invoice is paid for? Perhaps add something about right of access to collect them?

I've not studied part O but perhaps overhangs and or external shutters can be used to help meet the regs?

My understanding.. DPC should be at 150mm. I think only a limited number of renders are approved (by the manufacturer) for use below the DPC.

See Forms 7 (multiple parts) here.. https://ecab.planningportal.co.uk/uploads/1app/forms/form_1_assumption_of_liability.pdf The main things to know are.. You must still formally claim the exemption using the forms. The planners may tell you that your planning application is exempt BUT you must still formally claim the exemption using the forms. You must not start work on site before sending the forms and getting confirmation they have been processed. Hassle them for written confirmation. One form must be sent in after you finish the house/completion. You must live in the house for three years after completion. There are other disqualifying events (like renting it out) that can mean you loose the exemption. If you loose the exemption by mistake you get a bill for the whole amount which can be a fortune.

I have a copy of Carpentry and Joinery by Brian Porter. Excellent books I recommend. Small extracts from the relevant pages are below