Temp

PS Actually if they make one you probably want one that takes hot in the side, cold in the bottom and mixed on the other side so it's easier to insert in the existing pipe.

Yes but... Most shower mixers require the hot to be 10-12C hotter than the shower water. So if the hot to the shower is limited to 48C the shower will probably be limited to 36-38C ish. However google says the ideal shower temperature is 37-38C. You might see lower in practice due to losses down the pipes. You could fit a mixer valve that can blend up to 60C and turn it up a bit or remove it when the BCO is gone. I'm not sure if they need specific fail safe features or could be a regular mixer. Google found this one intended for UFH but again it's not one I've used. The one we have is no longer available. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Temperature-underfloor-Compression-Kudos-Trading-delivery/dp/B085GLWX73?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2S4BLAJZOXGY6

There are whole estates or two storey houses closer together than your proposal. One option might be to mirror your design left to right and possibly reduce the resulting part of the L nearest the other house to one storey. Do this and rotate it to the same angle as the other house? You might also consider making a street scene ddrawing as proposed showing both houses as viewed from the road showing the heights and gap between them to scale. Perhaps run that drawing past a planning consultant before submitting it.

Is there a danger of it freezing if not deep enough? Old houses frequently have cast iron stacks on the outside of the building so it was probably allowed in the past. One issue Is that stack should have a large radius vertically mounted bend at the bottom. Not sure how you would do that. How wide are the footings and how many pipes do you need to cross's them? Could you core drill a hole through them?

So you have fully filled trench foundations and want to run your soil pipes over the top? Above ground?

I don't know if these are actually any stronger or if it's just marketing speak but they say upto 40kg. https://www.eurofitdirect.co.uk/collections/heavy-duty-concealed-hinges

The vertical separation between the hinges matters so a short wide door is the worse combo. Think I'd look to see if they make a version for heavy doors and/or move the hinges as far apart vertically as possible. I guess replacing with two doors would look odd.

Blum hinges are probably the most widely used hinges on the market. Have used them myself. What I would do is remove the middle one temporarily. Set up the other two and refit the middle one.

VAT 708 has akl the details but it's quite a messy guide that tries to cover all the schemes. Best find the relevant section and refer your tradesmen and builders to that. I assume you haven't moved into the property as I believe that restarts the 2 year clock.

I feel for you. This sort of thing is unfortunately quite common. It took me over a year to get to the "recommended for approval" stage. All I can suggest is to keep going. If you run out of ideas consider employing a planning consultant.

Yeah I know that but I think you can only apply to discharge numbered conditions.

Mentions cavity trays should be used above windows etc in here but not a lot of detail. https://www.recticelinsulation.com/sites/default/files/country_specific/uk/Specification Guides/Recticel Insulation Cavity Wall Spec Guide.pdf

I notice the house also appears to be close to a slope on the left. I wonder if there are any foundation issues?

Was the 3 year time limit a formal numbered planning condition? I suspect not but if it was one option would be to apply to have it discharged 🙂 There is a fee but one fee covers all of the conditions you ask to be discharged at the same time. So if you discharge them in two groups then there are two fees.

I can see some people not putting in a first floor to stay within the new floor area limit. Then later trying to add a mezzanine.

Different councils have different attitudes to class Q. Some seem very opposed, others seem to have no issue. If its just been used for agricultural use for 10 years it should be OK. But it must be "capable of being converted". Some councils want a structural survey that confirms that the amount of work doesn't take I into the realms of a knock down and rebuild. I think I would get a locally based planning consultant to quote to do a site visit and comment on your chances and what he would recommend you do next. That might be a survey to convince the planners it's capable of being converted. If the survey isn't favourable you don't have to submit it, figure out what you need/can do to it while it's still a barn and if necessary get a new survey done to accompany the application. I've heard some councils draw the line at underpinning. Eg if underpinning is necessary they won't grant it as a class Q. However I don't think there is anything to stop you underpinning while it's still an agricultural building. Others are probably more knowledgeable about this than me.

The issue is this... The planners are only allowed to issue legally binding decisions using official documents. So for example if they just wrote you a letter saying your PP is till valid that would not be legally binding on them, they could in theory change their mind. So if you want a legally binding ruling on the status of your PP then you would have to apply for an LDC. If you are confident that you can prove your PP is still valid you could just carry on. I think what I would do is carry on working AND apply for an LDC on the grounds that work started before PP expired. Its extremely unlikely the planners would start any kind of enforcement knowing an application for an LDC has been filed.

Approved Document S.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/infrastructure-for-charging-electric-vehicles-approved-document-s Might have to read that a few times to work out how many are needed.

Looks cool but I noticed it's "coming soon".

Buy brand name. The big manufacturers tend to use same cartridge in new designs for a long time. Not so sure about unbranded makes.

Does the path get any use? Can you replace the fence without needing to do anything to the path? Think I would find an odd job man willing to break up the concrete and replace with a gravel path if it doesn't get much use. Replace the fence before putting gravel down as he will need somewhere to put the dirt from the fence post holes.

According to Google the ideal shower temperature is in the range 37 to 40C so you're looking for a differential of perhaps 3-5C. This discussion from 2010 ended up talking about Thermostatic valves in general rather than just shower mixer but you get the idea.. https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5751 Maybe by now there are showers with electronic mixers that can do it?

+1 You will need to apply for a dropped kerb. This isnt just permission to lower the kerb, it also gives you legal permission to drive over the pavement. I think it also stops the post office or cable companies putting post boxes, or similar on the pavement that could prevent you driving over it. How busy is the road? The council might not want you to reverse out if it's a busy road. They may insist on you being able to turn around in your front garden. What do the neighbours have? A few years ago the planing laws were changed to try and reduce flooding. This means that Planning Permission is required to pave a front garden unless you deal with all rainwater onsite. You should be fine with gravel but be careful what you put under it. You might consider MOT type 3 hardcore instead of MOT Type 1. I believe Type 3 is water permeable where as some versions of Type 1 can be like concrete. Have a look at the Paving Expert website. See their index for everything related to paving and drainage. Preparation is key to making a driveway that lasts. Pay attention to what they recommend you put under the grids/gravel. https://www.pavingexpert.com/ https://www.pavingexpert.com/pavindex The grids you mention come in different materials. I suspect some makes last longer than others when driven over regularly.

It depends a lot on the soil type. We have trees close on clay. According to the soil report and the SE we didn't need exotic foundations. Just deepish trench foundations lined with expansion boards and beam and block floor.

We have two wall mounted WC with these concealed frames and cisterns. In my case they are in boxing below windows. You can service them through the flush plate but I formed an access panel on the top of the boxing as I'm over cautious. Haven't needed to use it. Shop around as prices vary. There was once a German eBay seller that was cheap but that was pre Brexit. Note that the distance between flush, soil pipe and bolts is not a standard ! Most pans will fit but it's worth checking before buying as there are some exceptions that won't. Remember to set the height of the feet taking into account any floor tiling. Basically follow the instructions and all goes smoothly.