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Different councils have different attitudes to class Q. Some seem very opposed, others seem to have no issue. If its just been used for agricultural use for 10 years it should be OK. But it must be "capable of being converted". Some councils want a structural survey that confirms that the amount of work doesn't take I into the realms of a knock down and rebuild. I think I would get a locally based planning consultant to quote to do a site visit and comment on your chances and what he would recommend you do next. That might be a survey to convince the planners it's capable of being converted. If the survey isn't favourable you don't have to submit it, figure out what you need/can do to it while it's still a barn and if necessary get a new survey done to accompany the application. I've heard some councils draw the line at underpinning. Eg if underpinning is necessary they won't grant it as a class Q. However I don't think there is anything to stop you underpinning while it's still an agricultural building. Others are probably more knowledgeable about this than me.

The issue is this... The planners are only allowed to issue legally binding decisions using official documents. So for example if they just wrote you a letter saying your PP is till valid that would not be legally binding on them, they could in theory change their mind. So if you want a legally binding ruling on the status of your PP then you would have to apply for an LDC. If you are confident that you can prove your PP is still valid you could just carry on. I think what I would do is carry on working AND apply for an LDC on the grounds that work started before PP expired. Its extremely unlikely the planners would start any kind of enforcement knowing an application for an LDC has been filed.

Approved Document S.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/infrastructure-for-charging-electric-vehicles-approved-document-s Might have to read that a few times to work out how many are needed.

Looks cool but I noticed it's "coming soon".

Buy brand name. The big manufacturers tend to use same cartridge in new designs for a long time. Not so sure about unbranded makes.

Does the path get any use? Can you replace the fence without needing to do anything to the path? Think I would find an odd job man willing to break up the concrete and replace with a gravel path if it doesn't get much use. Replace the fence before putting gravel down as he will need somewhere to put the dirt from the fence post holes.

According to Google the ideal shower temperature is in the range 37 to 40C so you're looking for a differential of perhaps 3-5C. This discussion from 2010 ended up talking about Thermostatic valves in general rather than just shower mixer but you get the idea.. https://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=5751 Maybe by now there are showers with electronic mixers that can do it?

+1 You will need to apply for a dropped kerb. This isnt just permission to lower the kerb, it also gives you legal permission to drive over the pavement. I think it also stops the post office or cable companies putting post boxes, or similar on the pavement that could prevent you driving over it. How busy is the road? The council might not want you to reverse out if it's a busy road. They may insist on you being able to turn around in your front garden. What do the neighbours have? A few years ago the planing laws were changed to try and reduce flooding. This means that Planning Permission is required to pave a front garden unless you deal with all rainwater onsite. You should be fine with gravel but be careful what you put under it. You might consider MOT type 3 hardcore instead of MOT Type 1. I believe Type 3 is water permeable where as some versions of Type 1 can be like concrete. Have a look at the Paving Expert website. See their index for everything related to paving and drainage. Preparation is key to making a driveway that lasts. Pay attention to what they recommend you put under the grids/gravel. https://www.pavingexpert.com/ https://www.pavingexpert.com/pavindex The grids you mention come in different materials. I suspect some makes last longer than others when driven over regularly.

It depends a lot on the soil type. We have trees close on clay. According to the soil report and the SE we didn't need exotic foundations. Just deepish trench foundations lined with expansion boards and beam and block floor.

We have two wall mounted WC with these concealed frames and cisterns. In my case they are in boxing below windows. You can service them through the flush plate but I formed an access panel on the top of the boxing as I'm over cautious. Haven't needed to use it. Shop around as prices vary. There was once a German eBay seller that was cheap but that was pre Brexit. Note that the distance between flush, soil pipe and bolts is not a standard ! Most pans will fit but it's worth checking before buying as there are some exceptions that won't. Remember to set the height of the feet taking into account any floor tiling. Basically follow the instructions and all goes smoothly.

Water gets into regular sealed units through the smallest of holes because the gas inside expands and contracts with changes in temperature. That pumps air in and out taking water vapour with it. So unless the whole thing is one triple glazed sealed unit it will be near impossible to keep it out. If the humidity is high small reduction in temperature is all it takes to start condensation. Perhaps the other window gets slightly more sun.

PS: You might consider telling the Builder you would like to be there when the BCO makes his inspections. Not to check up on him but you are just interested in how it's done.

Based only on the photo it looks ok to me. I mean the general quality looks ok. Possibly one of the joist hangers could be neater? This sort of thing (where the beam goes) often involves compromises such as trading off increased headroom for thermal bridging. It generally looks better if the beam in in the ceiling rather than boxed in under it but that can increase heat losses. This sort of beam should really be designed by a professional, typically a structural engineer or similar. They will specify how big the beam is, how its jointed and supported. Frequently the Building Control Officer will ask to see those calculations/design. The job of the padstone is to prevent a "cheese wire" effect by spreading the load of the beam along the length of the wall which it is doing. Laying it flat would make it overhang the sides of the wall and that would have no benefit. The area of the padstone in contact with the wall is what matters and is calculated based on the load and the crush strength of the wall. Is it going to be a warm roof (insulation above rafters) or cold roof (insulation between rafters with ventilated void above the insulation) ? Edit: Ideally the padstone should be centred below the beam but even that may not be an issue especially if the pad stone is longer than necessary.

Doesn't make much difference either way. Might as well do your bit/both at same time. Joint ownership of property can be full of hidden issues. Be sure to get a solicitor involved to do the paperwork. Consider what would happen if one of you dies or gets made redundant or you had a falling out and had to move out. How would you get your share out? It should define your share of any bills like council tax? Maintenance, insurance etc. If you want to be able to sell it as two separate properties I believe that would need planning permission. Two lots of council tax etc.

I believe the problem is the single glazing on the outside. You can't avoid water vapour getting into the 18cm void and the single glazed outer will be cold. I think it would be better to have a sealed DG unit on the outside, an 18cm gap and SG on the inside. That way the outer unit would be warmer. Probably too expensive to change now. Try putting dehumidifier crystals in the 18cm void?

We left the EU in 2021. After that...

Quintec switches are wireless. You can put a quintec switch anywhere. So you could have one of their switches next to an outside door where there is no power. That switch can talk to a reciever in say the garage where your outside lights pick up power. No need for wires from the switch to the lights. The switches are powered by your hand moving the switch. So no battery required either. They also have a PIR sensor that is also wireless. This can also be paired to control your lights. It has a dusk to dawn light level sensor so the PIR only turns the lights on at night. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUPIR.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=&placement=&kw=&network=x&matchtype=&ad_type=pla&product_id=QUPIR&product_partition_id=&campaign=shopping_switches_sockets&version=finalurl_v3&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3ZayBhDRARIsAPWzx8pc0t4tphYjRwJLKUNjTeC_R0IZdyqzTj0-Sc0bjQ9U4ei5EBDX9yMaAt0SEALw_wcB I've not used any if their kit but it's all fairly straightforward to understand.

Think I would jury rig some Quintec switches to try them out before installing. Sometimes it's nice to have our outside lights just come on when you arrive home or step outside. They do a PIR sensor you can use.

Think I would check for eggs. If none block access. They can nest elsewhere.

Write the plumber a letter certifying that their work is on a new build. Quote your planning reference number and all your contact details. Use the words "I certify..." Show them VAT 708.

If the plumber buys materials they must zero rated them to you same as their labour. So you have no VAT to reclaim. Waiting on receipts from them so you can reclaim the VAT isn't an option HMRC allow on a new build. Only on a conversion where it's 5%. The plumber isn't out of pocket as he reclaims any VAT he pays.

Not sure I follow all that but my understanding is the boiler modulates down to keep the flow temperature below some set limit. They can't modulate down to zero. If they reach the minimum flame power they start cycling on/off.

How can you have a soak away design without having done a percolation test? To correctly size the soak away you need figures from the percolation test. Unless you guess.

Would be hard to get a wheel chair past the cars parked on the pavement?

With care you can hide the cistern and frame for the wall hung WC in a stud wall. The main issue is the waste pipe run. We clad our bathroom stud walls with 12mm Hardibacker board before tiling. It's hard to cut but it's bomb proof and allows you to fix most things like towel rails or lights anywhere. Obviously something like a wall hung basin needs more. I think the weight of Hardibacker helps a bit with sound proofing.