Temp

Ring ring.. "I've got a crate of beer for you to say thanks for doing the PWA agreement, are you home Saturday?"..

Perhaps you could cut a few grooves in it to act as drainage channels. Bit like you have on a kitchen draining board.

Can be at switch if there is a neutral there. Has to go Switched Live to Neutral on the input side to any ballast if there is one..

If it's got sleeping accommodation it will likely need Building Control Approval anyway.

How bright is it when it's meant to be off? Hard to tell in the photo. If a dim/medium glow then yes its probably capacitive coupling between live and switched live or similar. A bypass capacitor should sort it. They go in parallel with the light. Only usually need one to fix multiple bulbs on same circuit. If its full or near full brightness then it's possibly a wiring fault of some sort?

Not familiar with Scotland but.. I've heard of people asking the BCO if it's OK to dig (but not fill) the foundation trenches while you wait for approval to start. After all some people go down the Building Notice route rather than Full Plans Approval.

OK so the target U value is 0.15. That's an R value of 1/0.15 = 6.7 needed. Wood fiber has a Thermal conductivity = 0.041 W/mK R value of 80mm would be.. = (1/0.041) * 80/1000 = 1.95 So the PIR needs to provide an R of.. 6.7 - 1.95 = 4.75 The Thermal conductivity of PIR is about 0.022 W/mK The thickness in mm you need would be.. T = 4.75 * 0.022 * 1000 = 104.5 mm However I'm not sure it's safe to put any insulation between the rafters without a condensation risk analysis.. The term warm roof has two different meanings that get confused. One refers to the temperature of the loft (I prefer warm loft for this). The other refers to the temperature of the structural members (rafters). If the insulation is entirely above the rafter then we call this a Warm Roof because the rafters are on the warm side of the insulation where condensation cannot form. Conventional roofs have all the insulation between or below the rafters putting them on the cold side. To prevent condensation in this case they must normally be ventilated, typically with a 50mm ventilated void. If you have some insulation above and some between the rafters then this is a hybrid roof frowned on in some quarters. The insulation between the rafters lowers the temperature of parts of the rafter potentially increasing the risk of condensation. Some insulation can be installed between rafters but you really should get a condensation risk analysis done to work out how much. I have a feeling it won't be as much as you need. You could try approaching a PIR manufacturer. Explain you have 80mm wood fiber above rafters and would like to fit some PIR between but need a condensation risk analysis done to work out how much is safe. They might be able to do one free for you to try and get the business. Note I'm not an expert on condensation and the breathability of the wood fibre might make a difference to the above. Could you put a whole lot more wood fibre on top of the existing 80mm to make it a proper warm roof? I estimate you would need a total of.. T = 6.7 * 0.041 * 1000 = 275mm wood fibre, Less the 80mm you already have is another 195mm. Or you could possibly put the 105mm PIR on top? This would complicate fixing tile battens. Your BCO might have strong views about this. Did he approve the original hybrid with wood fibre both above and between? What do others think?

Complain to advertising standards. Very easy to do and its anonymous (to the company). I've submitted a few including against big companies.

Can just leave it. Next time use low efflorescent bricks

You can buy metal garages but Ive never had one. If it's within 1m of the boundary building regs require it to be essentially non combustible so that might be an issue. Learn how to lay blocks and pay to get them rendered?

You can get special low tog underlay For UFH. Try and keep the total tog as low as possible. Some carpets are available in two versions (with Hessian or foam backing). Beware the small print in carpet shop contracts that allows them to deliver either version at their choice.

My guess is the design of the foundations for the garage didn't take into account the soil type and tree. In some cases >3m deep foundations lined with compressible boards are needed. Sometimes piled foundations. Do you know how deep they went?

So must be even higher at the pump as there must be losses in the pipework?

The tech guidance says.. I would suggest that means the overhang must be included in the area. Pretty sure a car port on the front of your house would need planning permission even if in front of a door.

Materials... For the first one you just send elevation drawings marked up with the materials. Attach a list with pictures and or samples. Mention if they are already used locally. Eg.. "External walls where shown on the elevation drawings to be ABC bricks made by DEF. These have already been used on other properties in the area." "Windows are to be hardwood/uPVC made by GHI model JKL. See brochure/photo of example." "Roof to be tiled with plain clay tiles by MNO." If the bricks aren't already used locally you may need to provide samples. Brick suppliers will sometimes let you have 3 bricks free for this. Landscape... This is usually a site plan marked up showing trees to be retained, trees to be removed (dotted), fences, hedges, driveway finish and any hard surfaces. On ours the main trees were numbered on the plan and a document provided detailing their species and approx size and their intended fate. "New planting to be watered and maintained according to the suppliers recommendations. Any trees that die in the first 3 years to be replaced." We were told we had to plant a hedge and you can find planting specs on the web for that.Eg "Native Hedge whips planted in two staggered rows 50cm spart. Species to include mix of ???. Plastic spirals to provide rabbit protection." Any trees (and plants?) you show on the landscaping plan you can reclaim the VAT for. Otherwise not. Noise/Screening.. Not sure about the noise condition. You will have to read the document they refer to and see what figures and mitigation measures it contains. You might be able to cite sections of their own document back to them. Ideally you should propose what you want to do. If you get stuck you could ask the councils landscape officer for advice but he might suggest a lot of expensive things.

I'd mount it on a pole that you can lean up against different parts of the tree.

How much lower and what do you plan to put on top? For example it's not a good idea to tile over the joint between separate areas of concrete because any differential movement can cause cracking. One option might be to drill into the side of the higher slab, insert rebar and pour concrete to bring the lower up to the higher.

I left a pressure washer get too cold and water froze and broke it. At very least make sure no water in the pump.

Design out the need for precise location.

You might want to have a chat with neighbours. In my area a farmer accepted a deal with a wind farm co and then discovered everyone in the nearby village was opposed. He ended up writing an objection to the planning application. The company reminded him that he had agreed not to object in the contract he had signed and he had to write another letter withdrawing his objection. In the end the Secretary of State over-ruled the Appeal Inspector and said it was too close to conservation areas and Listed Buildings. So he ended up with nothing and lost a lot of friends. In some cases if you agree to the noise limits at your property it can mean no new houses can be built between you and the turbines because the noise the would exceed the guidelines. I think that's unlikely at 2km as other house are likely to be nearer already. Unless you are one of the nearest?

Stick a fan heater out there to keep it just above freezing?

Not normally. More details and photos might help. In some cases (eg House divided into flats) there might be something in the deeds that allows this.

Perhaps look at the planning files for one of these houses that are close. See if there are any reports in there and who wrote them. Councils normally have a map search feature that allows you to find planning applications within x meters of a location you specify.

All I know is that for a mine shaft the minimum zone of influence is normally 20m.

Google says you can get a test for lead in water. I would get one of those then at least you can decide if safe for you, even if you don't want to risk baby. Don't tell the water co the result.