Temp

Perhaps find another planning application with same condition in your area and see what they wrote.

Our crew hung the doors then took them down to oil them on trestles.

Use a credit card (not debit) for the consumer protection?

Toolstation have several pumps in that range. They have a 2 bar twin for under £200. So it looks like you're only saving the installation cost. What's the current pump? Do they still make it. If so that's worth considering as all the pipes should line up.

Not me, I had to google them. The website I saw said they are 12 Watt. That's not a lot of power. The few conventional pumps I've looked at have been over 100W per pipe. I don't think there is any possibility of them having similar performance because even if their design was 100% efficient (12W in and 12W out) the conventional pump would have to have an efficiency of less than 12% to have the same output (100W in but only 12W out).

Yes that's because a bungalow loft conversion normally results in a two storey house where as most loft conversions result in a three story house. So the rules for a bungalow loft conversion are similar to that of a two storey house without loft conversion. They typically only requires interlinked alarms. It's actually the height that matters not the number of floors but the effect is the same.

I'm not sure if there are regulations that require you to do more than just replace the boiler. Grant still make External oil boilers. Price of the boiler alone on the Internet appears to r £1800 to $3500 is depending on size. She should get several quotes.

One possibility might be to use a small SSR to switch the coil of a relay that has a 230VAC coil. No DC power needed at the relay. SSR gives you the isolation. Main problem with ideas like this is that it's a home brew solution an electrician might hesitate to use.

I think thats unlikely to be a problem. We've had a negligible effect on O2 levels in the atmosphere by burning fossil fuels. Even the CO2 produced is only such a problem because the greenhouse effect is very sensitive to CO2 levels. I'm more concerned about the effect Hydrogen has. I think Hydrogen is a greenhouse gas so the cumulative effect of leaks might be an issue.

Isn't that what happens now when we burn coal, oil etc.

You can get a kit from screwfix/toolstation to do the test yourself before the BCO comes to witness it. It consists of a 110mm plug with a rubber hose and a bulb you squeese by hand to pressurise the pipe and a pressure gauge. You lift an inspection chamber and insert the plug, pump it up and check it maintains pressure on the gauge. The pressure test is very low pressure, typically only a few inches of water as that's all you have in the traps to resist it. Worth doing before the BCO comes so you can fix any issues. I forgot to put water in the washing machine trap. Lot of head scratching with the BCO present wasn't good for the nerves.

Think it might look odd if the roof pitches don't match like they do now. Presumably the problem goes away if the width is made a bit smaller? How much would you need to lose on the width to solve both issues?

Many relays come in a choice of coil voltage. Can't you find a suitable 5V coil relay and avoid 24V?

You don't need to own the land on which you are applying for Planning Permission. Officially I think you are required to get the owner to sign part of the Planning Application form (I think I've heard this referred to as providing a certificate of ownership but it's just a signature in a box I think. I can't recall exactly). I doubt the planners check who own the land. How can they as even the land registry say the boundaries on the title plan aren't determinative. It's worth noting that Planning Permission only gives you the Council's permission. It doesn't give you any other rights. You still need the owners permission to actually build it. Otherwise I think it amounts to trespass. They can go to the court and get the work stopped. However in very minor cases (like building over the boundary a few inches) courts have allowed the building to stand and ordered modest compensation rather than knock it down. Best advice is to speak to the neighbour over a beer and try to come to an agreement. Then get it written up and added to your titles at the land registry. Would this convert your house from a semi to a terrace? Or detached to semi? Consider the impact on the valuation.

+1 Assuming this is a qualifying building like a new house.. Must be zero rated to you. You cannot reclaim it (Or any other VAT paid in error). Refer the water Co to VAT 708.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708 Specifically..

I've done both manual levelling and used levelling systems (clip and wedge). The only time I wouldn't use a levelling system is on small tiles or stone that has varying thickness. I found even the cheap systems is off Amazon seem to work reasonably well.

We have oil boiler and ufh. I decided to fit a thermal store which acts as a buffer between the two. The room stats control the flow of water from the store to the UFH and floor loops The stat on the store controls the flow from the boiler to the store. The two sides, in and out of the store are independent except for the master On/off switch. When the store needs topping up the oil boiler runs flat out until the store is satisfied. No cycling. To get it to do this I had to turn the pump up to maximum and the boiler flow temperature dial up to maximum. This way the actual flow temperature never hits value set on the boiler temperature dial so it never cycles. The big question is it worth it? The store is big and has lots of pumps and mixers and leakes quite a bit of heat into the store room it's it. It's also not ideal should I want to switch to a heat pump. If I did that I'd probably use the store only for DHW and connect the UFH direct to the heat pump. This would allow the heat pump to run at lower temperatures. It's a 300L store which means we always have that much hot water available for high flow rate mains pressure showers. They are fantastic. Do what @Originaltwist suggests an see if you can detect any cycling. If it's short cycling a lot then perhaps looks at a buffer tank. If it never stops cycling even on very cold days that suggests the boiler is too big. One option might be to fit smaller jets if available for your model. That can also improve efficiency a few % on some makes. As for the "leave it on all day"... I think UFH is best suited to households that have one person at home most days. Otherwise the system can spend ages heating the house only for you both to go out just as it gets warm. If you are both out working I would set the stats to "set back" to say 16C about an hour _before_ you leave for work. Most likely the house will still be warm when you leave due to thermal inertia. See what happens. It might even be possible to do this even earlier if the house is well insulated. Then have the temperature set to say 20C about an hour before you get home. If it's not actually reached 20 when you get home set it to 20 a bit earlier. If someone is home in the daytime then 18 might be better than 16. Depends how active they are. We have ours set back to 18 or 16 C at night depending on the room.

We have them on an outside door and they seem to work ok. They come in different lengths. Go for the shortest needed.

You are not obliged to do anything not mentioned in the planning conditions. Beware the condition that says it must be built as per the approved plans if they show anything about trees. You might need/want to do more than stated in planning conditions if the tree report contains anything relevant to your foundation design. Eg trees close by on clay soil = deeper foundations or even piles are needed.

When I was looking for builders I found Builders Merchants wouldn't recommend anyone if you just walked and asked outright. However if you were in there buying something and just casually ask at tye counter.. "I don't suppose you know any good builders to consider" or "Have you heard of a builder called ..." they would be more forthcoming with their views. Staff being more forthcoming than management.

Are you sure they haven't got another reason they can't share with you? Have they done a credit check on your builder? CCJ's ?

Good catch. I've found that once a pressure relief valve opens they tend to leak by even after the cause of the over pressure has been fixed. Think they get bits of scale in them? So I think there is a good chance you will need to replace the PRV as well as the EV but do the EV first. I wouldn't put corrosion inhibitor back in until its been running for a few days just in case the PRV does need doing.

I swear by mvhr, best thing we included. I think the constant ventilation helps a lot with air quality. The extract might even be reducing dust levels in the house? I think having trickle vents in windows makes that area colder and more prone to condensation on glass and frames. With MVHR introducing warner air elsewhere into the room the window area is warmer and less prone to condensation. We don't get condensation on the few metal framed windows we have. We dry laundry on racks in our bathroom and don't get condensation in there either. It doesn't even have an extractior fan - it relies on the mvhr extract which seems sufficient. Our set up is probably quite inefficient as we have wood burners that aren't room sealed. They only get used at Christmas so most of the time represent a big hole in the ceiling. All mvhr have some sort of filter on the input and it surprised me how quick they block up. That increases the power drawn. First time ours blocked it popped the 1A fuse on the mvhr fan ! So make sure you have easy access to the filters and plan on clean them every 3-4 months. Our filters are like a coarse aquarium foam and rinse out under a tap. They get blocked with dust, flys and moths etc.

Perhaps they have had problem with the bathroom fan installation leaking on other houses?

If th modem has a spare port connect a wire into that. Then at the other end install a WIFI Access Point that has a spare wired port. Plug the PC into that. If you have a wired printer you might an AP with 3 ports. Alternatively... If you like you can buy a switch and put that on the end of the wire from the modem. Plug your AP, PC and Printer into that switch.