Temp

Are you sure you want to use either? Both have exposed heads rather than countersunk if that matters. Timberlok and similar tend to have thinner shank and sharper threads. Coach screws tend to be fatter and more crudely manufactured. I'd suggest drilling a pilot hole with either. Make a test on scrap wood to avoid shearing off a bolt in the actual workpiece. Could go into screwfix or toolstation and ask to see some.

That will be interesting/challenging. I did a bathroom in travertine last year but they were only 600 x 400 in landscape/brick bond. I thought they were pretty heavy and yours will be three times heavier than mine. Have you got data? I estimate over 25kg each? More when back buttered with adhesive. This is what I did but its probably not the best approach for you... I use a laser level to fix a batten to the wall at about 3/4 of a tile height. Screw it to the wall well! The exact height depends on the height of the ceiling - I aim to avoid having a narrow strip of tile at either top or bottom. Usually you have about 1/2 or 3/4 of a tile. Then I tile up from the batten. I work pretty slow so I use regular or slow adhesive and did just one row a day. Once the walls are done I do the floor. Then remove the batten on the walls and cut the bottom row of wall tiles to fit. I think in your case I would do it differently... I'd use a laser level to find the highest point of the floor. Then draw a line at one tile height (1.2m) above that. Then you can pack under the tiles as required to get the tops all level. Then later the floor tiles should cover any gaps at the bottom. It was a struggle to level the stone I used because it wasn't a uniform thickness. The system I had (below) tries to level both front and back of the tile which isn't possible if they are different thicknesses. If your stone is nice and uniform thickness it probably works ok. In my case there was a lot of cursing and thumping with fists and a rubber mallet. I question if this system is strong enough to pull very large tiles in and out. More likely the plastic hoops will stretch.

PS: A common problem with changing to a pitched roof is that there are windows on the first floor that limit how high the wall plate can be, and tiles and slates have a minimum pitch. I think typical eaves height is around 2.5m. If you can set the wall plate end at 4m that's a fall of 4-2.5 = 1.5m over 3m. That's a pitch of Arctan(1.5/3) = 26 degrees. Many tiles are limited to 30-35 degrees. Some are OK down to 15 degrees (may depend on exposure).

It can sometimes get a bit tricky when you totally demolish something. I couldn't find a government source that explicitly covered this situation but.. https://www.hcrlaw.com/blog/demolition-when-is-planning-permission-needed/ However it sounds like you are well underway so I probably wouldn't bother. For safety I would check you comply with the rules for a new extension buried in multiple places in here... https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5d77afc8e5274a27cdb2c9e9/190910_Tech_Guide_for_publishing.pdf I think the main issues might be the height. See top of page 17 which limits the height to 4m or 3m within 2m of the boundary.. and page 22.. Think there are also rules on the use of similar materials to the house.

Our Architect designed windows to sit on the inside the oak fame. They work, just, but I wouldn't do it again.

Our system is set to 18C in the daytime, 20C in the evening, 16C at night as someone is almost always at home. There is still quite a bit of variability in how the floor feels. Right no its after 2pm so most rooms are well stabilised at the set temperature. Heating probably wont kick in much until the step up to 20C in a few hours. To bare feet.. the Engineered wood floor doesn't feel hot or cold. The stone and tiled area feel slightly cooler. One room with stone floor was obviously calling for heat recently as the floor feels warm. When its very cold outside and the heating is running just about all the floor surfaces feel warm. Possible exception being the carpeted rooms upstairs which you don't really notice much difference.

+1 I also keep a large clean dry brush for pressing and smoothing out bubbles, and pushing the paper into corners. Avoid brushes that have sharp metal on them as easy to snag the wet paper. They sell brushes designed for this job.

Most mixers have valves to prevent cross flow but check. If they don't this can sometimes allow cold to flow across the mixer back up the hot and around to a hot tap. If there are isolators on the shower try turning one off and see if that fixes the problem at a tap (the shower won't work obviously but it might confirm the fault) Check the mains pressure and flow rate meets any minimum spec for the boiler.

If you use soakaways to dispose of rainwater from roofs I imagine that doesn't count as "run off". Only other thing I can suggest is preventing rainwater falling on your driveway or hard standing from running onto the road. Linear drains and soakaways should deal with that. If you do the above why would run off increase beyond that of it's existing greenfield?

I've got pairs of cupboard door magnets holding in hardi backer board hatches clad with stone. They don't need to carry the weight just hold it in. Works fine.

They also weigh less so are easy to fix to plasterboard.

Perhaps but I would just replace the whole fitting. Modern LED fittings are slimmer and can be brighter. They just have two wires like a light bulb or fluorescent fitting. Only issue is that some have a socket one end for the wiring rather than a hole on the top middle. Screwfix have lots in different lengths, brightness and shade of white light. Something like this.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/reeve-slimline-twin-5ft-led-batten-40w-4000lm-220-240v/804pg

I would install some land drains and ideally remove and replace as much of the clay with a free draining soil as you can afford.

Seek advice from the contact @joe90 gave. Possibly the VAT help line as well. To qualify as a new build you are only allowed to retain some walls, typically the front wall. Important to get it right because if you pay 5% VAT to a builder in error thinking it's a conversion you can't claim it back from HMRC. See VAT 708 para 3.2 and 3.2.2

I think they are called "internal manhole covers" or "internal inspection covers". There are a range of different styles for things like tiled or vinyl floors. Think most builders merchants should be able to supply one. https://www.kentstainless.com/access-covers-manholes/tiled-resin-floor/solo-industrial-manhole/

My advice is to try find a similar planning application and see what they provided. The condition says you need to provide a "Construction Ecological Management Plan (CEcMP)" so I would try and find a document with that title on the portal and read it. If there is anything irrelevant to your site edit it out. Make sure you aren't committing yourself to anything expensive etc. I'm pretty sure that a CEcMP will be all about protecting wild life during construction, whereas a "Biodiversity net gain (BNG)" is more about ensuring your planning application as a whole improves Biodiversity. I would stick with the former until they insist on the latter.

Will it be a flat roof and which way will it slope? Normally any overhang and or gutter will determine the gap as much as anything. I don't think 50mm will be enough for them to properly fix/finish the edge of roofing felt. I would ask about this detail and future maintenance.

If you assume the UFH loop pump and ashp pump have same flow rate then no water flows through the short circuit. If there is any difference in flow rate it will go through the short.

It was ok as it happens. Just landed in Delhi. Probably best to let you get back on topic.

Technically I don't think you don't need PP for a van for building workers to live in. So if all occupants can claim to be doing at least some work on the house you should be ok. No children obviously. I believe this even extends to a van on neighbouring land. I'm travelling at moment so can't easily quote a source but it should be possible to find it in the GPDO somewhere. Edit: The menu on my flight includes "Fluffy egg preparation" I guess that's an omelette then.

When we built the regs required a level entry to meet part M of the building regs. Basicaloy followed this example from the web.

Non standard construction can sometimes be hard to get a mortgage on.

I thought what you want isn't allowed in building regs? Don't they have to be staggered in height or is that only when one side is smaller than the other?

The effectiveness of insulation depends mostly on.. a) The thermal conductivity of the raw material it's made from. Lower is better. b) The thickness. Pure Aerogel has the lowest thermal conductivity but in it's raw form it's very fragile and expensive so it's not normally used except perhaps on spacecraft. Usually it's in a different form like a blanket and these have a higher thermal conductivity. Beware sellers quoting the thermal conductivity of raw Aerogel in adverts. Compare with the actual specification of the prouct. Post the numbers including the units of any product you are looking at and someone might be able to comment. Next best is probably something like a PIR based foil covered foam. Typical all insulation products have thermal conductivities that vary by perhaps 30% so none can be 1/10 the thickness of another and have the same performance. Beware some manufacturers quote U-values for their product when installed with an air gap. Anyone can make their product look better by requiring an air gap. I'm currently on a train in India so might not be able to reply. Family are at home so it's not a risk me posting this.

There is a slight risk of water crossing the cavity via insulation but the grey coated EPS systems seem to be least prone. If the outside is rendered the risk reduced to virtually nil if it's kept in good condition.