Temp

I would recommend more insulation. We have 80mm of PIR and would prefer more. We have 21mm engineered oak boards straight over the UFH no ply. Works ok but I wouldn't go thinner eg not 14mm engineered flooring direct over UFH. Think about joints in the no more ply. They may need supporting to prevent flexing under tiles. Screw it down well.

What's the exact wording? I suspect it says "not for separate residential use". It should be possible to use it for some residential uses.

As I understand it the issue is mobility, and relies on the idea that you don't need planning permission or building control approval to park a vehicle. I've heard of planners asking you to demonstrate the building is able to be moved by actually moving it.

Welcome to the forum. Lot of work there. SE might think it's too ambitious? The beam spanning the width would most likely have to be made in two parts with a joint to get it in. The beam running front to back extends out beyond the back wall. So could be inserted from the rear of the house. It's possible the SE will advise this leaving piers and/or putting vertical steel posts under the ends of the beams. That's because all the load from upstairs is focused on the ends of the beams. Padstones help spread the load but they aren't always enough. Can depend on the condition of the existing walls. Edit - Looks like you are expecting this. Looks like you plan to remove a chimney breast in the living room which may also need a beam to support the bit left above. Using gallows brackets might be possible but personally I hate the idea. Imagine two neighbours who both use gallows brackets - they leave the chimney balanced on a narrow wall. Shudder. Think the Party Wall Act would apply both sides if the beams go into the wall - so need neighbours agreement to stop it getting expensive.

Not sure I understand the question. See photos by "Christ" down this page. https://www.plasterersforum.com/threads/rendering.28429/#post-356987 Note site only allows a few views before you have to register.

We have granite worktops now but have had some very good laminates in previous houses. Some of it has been incredibly hard and sanding it would have totally ruined the finish. I wondered if he had used a solvent to clean off the glue and this had affected it somehow.

This one claims 370mm wide without wrap over lid.. https://www.simplybathrooms.co.uk/product/resolve-maxi-seat-d-shape-slim-soft-close-in-white/

This one claims 375mm wide.. https://www.bellabathrooms.co.uk/cassellie-d-shaped-quick-release-heavy-duty-seat.html

This one says "Toilet Seat Size: 46 cm x 36 cm, Holes Adjustment Range: 60 mm - 170 mm"... ...but also gives the same numbers for the "product size". i guess you could ask them which is right. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01MD1O1CY/ref=psdcmw_1938753031_t1_B07S82QZVC

Combimate doses the water with Polyphosphate. There are several similar devices that also use Polyphosphate so shop around for cheapest and cheapest refills. They get a mention in Southern Waters note on water softeners.. https://www.southernwater.co.uk/Media/Default/PDFs/2835b_WaterSofteners_A4Notes_Nov12.pdf Apparently Polyphosphate makes the Calcium "less available to form deposits". Worth a read.

I think that link makes it very clear it would be residential duty.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WOLTU-Duroplastic-Toilet-Release-Adjustable/dp/B07S82QZVC No wap but lid still slightly bigger than seat. Measure yours.

Found a "long" D seat which I guess might hide the pan at the front... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Projection-Elongated-One-Release-Seat/dp/B0074K32R2 Possible D without wrap.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Landlord-Direct-Supplies-Release-Fittings/dp/B07212F1L2

As far as I can tell there is no standard size for loo seats. Even the width between hinge points seems to vary. We have a similar D shape back to the wall pan and when I replaced the seat last time I fitted a regular oval shape wood seat and lid. Doesn't look to bad.

I can certainly see the lighter area. Are you sure it was caused by sanding as that shouldn't be needed on a laminate worktop. Was it done by an installer working for a kitchen co or did you hire him? If it was the former I would ask the kitchen co to come take a look.

I didn't think anyone made small CHP systems but this company popped up in an advert on another forum.. https://helec.co.uk/product-category/6kwe-16kwe-gasfirechp/ They have a 20kW heat and 7.5kW electrical unit. Only problem is it costs just under £30,000 !

+1 I don't think the condition is enforcible as worded.

Google found this.. https://rbwm.moderngov.co.uk/Data/Cabinet/20100225/Agenda/meetings_100225_cab_trees_appxA.pdf

When was the speed reduced to 20mph? Was that after they had declared there were no highway issues on that other application? Eg What was the speed limit at the time there were no highway issues? I think this is starting to look like a new highway officer is just a bit fussy. If true I think when you submit the application you should point out there were no highway problems identified on the recent/previous application (reference no) when the speed limit was ??? and since then it has been reduced to 20mph.

Presumably they don't do any assembly of the kit on site themselves? If they did their labour and the kit should be zero rated.

Might be worth a look at grants. Mainly for people on benefits but perhaps your tenant might qualify... https://www.government-grants.co.uk/free-insulation If the walls are solid some councils have (had?) grants for "hard to insulate" properties, might be worth seeing if they have any money left.

I think it could be close. You will have other costs I forgot to include such as council tax. If it's uninhabitable you may not have to pay that. If you rent it for storage watch out for business rates (Some investors in storage containers/pods have been hit for that). You also pay income tax on the rental income. Is there any possibility you might want to retain part of the existing building?... 1) A knock down and rebuild qualifies for 0% VAT. 2) Retaining part might make the rest liable for VAT at either 20% or 5%.. a) Renting it out and retaining part for the new build would make the new build liable for 20% VAT. b) Leaving it empty for two years and retaining part for the new build would make the new build liable for 5% VAT (as it qualifies as an empty building).

Standard (eg daytime) electricity is roughly four times the cost of mains gas. Scroll down this page to the table.. https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ So an electric ASHP (heat pump) with a COP of 4 gets you back to the same ball park price as mains gas. Ok so maybe possible to get a better electricity deal than assumed by the Nottingham web site but you get the general idea.

+1 In addition to planning permission I suspect there will be a lot of other issues just to make it habitable and legal for renting out.. New water, gas and electric supplies and meters needed. Electric circuits need separating from existing house and connecting to new meter and Consumer Unit. Heating system ? New boiler required? New sewer connection (existing WC uses sewer connection of existing house) Possibly other things to meet building regs such as... Exterior doors (fire regs). Sound proofing of wall between new and existing house. EPC (needed for renting)

I see it's made from iron oxide so might stain any wood like oak badly.