Temp

If there isn't another stopcock then might have to resort to a pipe freezing kit. Screwfix sell sprays but you have to work fast or you can hire a powered box of tricks.. https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/pipe-freezing/cat9530001?cm_sp=managedredirect-_-handtools-_-pipefreezing https://www.hss.com/hire/p/pipe-freezer-12-42mm-240v

Yes was a bit concerned but it looks fine on the Honeywell regulator. The tap connector I have also came with rubber washers.

In the end I remembered that the thread on a 15mm compression fittings was 1/2" BSP so a much better option was a pressure reducer with compression fittings (removed) and a pair of these tap adaptors.. https://www.toolstation.com/jg-speedfit-straight-tap-connector/p13693

Top marks for lateral thinking. Perhaps some internal insulation would also use up the floor space and might be needed anyway if building control get involved?

Normally they are preset to 3bar but I guess I should check.

Thanks. I'm adding a pressure reducer into an existing plastic pipe so think I'll go with this one.. https://www.toolstation.com/pressure-reducing-valve/p94502 And a pair of adaptors.. https://www.toolstation.com/hep2o-male-adaptor-brass-socket/p54535

Is it ok to run Hep2O plastic pipe into compression fittings like this designed for copper? https://www.toolstation.com/pressure-reducing-valve-and-gauge/p11827 With pipe inserts obviously. I know there is a pressure reducer with 1/2" brass ports and 1/2" brass to HEP20 adaptors.

Make sure the box is secure as building sites and empty houses tend to attract thieves.

Perhaps you need an app which has a floor plan of your house with all the lights on it. I'm no programmer but it sounds like an application for one of the "visual" programming languages?

What is the planning status of the second extension? I suspect the previous owner might have needed planning permission either because it extends too far to the rear of the house or because more than half the original garden has now been built on? Might be worth checking the planning portal on-line to see if PP exists just so you know what you might be getting into. If they didn't get permission a neighbour could cause you some trouble by complaining. If built more than 4 years ago the planners can't make you knock it all down as it's too late for them to initiate enforcement action.

If you are buying them and fitting yourself I think your best bet is not to ask for the VAT off as they will get confused. Just ask for their best price/discount and reclaim the VAT as normal.

One thing to think about is the beam angle. For some reason the world seems to be standardising on 36 degrees for GU10 bulbs. I find 90 or 100 degrees is much better but they are harder to find (BnQ have some). You get a bit more glare but fewer shadows and more even lighting.

Done. The survey is about risk. Some thoughts on this.... When we set out I thought cost or technical issues might be our biggest areas of risk. However it turned out to be dealing with third parties... Planning Permission is known to be hard to get but I expected any difficulty to be due to issues related to the design of the house. Instead our 14 month planning nightmare was due to was staff shortages in the planning department and general incompetence. We eventually got planning permission for a design virtually unchanged from our original proposal. Cost me a fortune in Architects fees, air fares, hotels and hire cars as we were living abroad at the time. The water company probably represented our second biggest risk. We needed a water main diverting. Unfortunately the way the rules work and the way the water company costs jobs virtually forces you to use them not a third party to do the work. They don't give quotes only estimates. In addition we found their workmen horribly inefficient. Turning up without equipment etc. Forgetting to test water samples leading to weeks of delays and a bill about £3k higher than estimated. Really wish I could have used another company to do all the work. Heaven help self builders if water companies are nationalised and get even more inefficient. Supplier failure/bankruptcy. We had one supplier go bust but fortunately we didn't loose money as we hadn't paid yet. Have heard of others not so lucky. Some form of Escrow system for self builder would be welcomed by many.

Pretty sure you don't need hundreds of Alexa compatible bulbs, you must be able to use one Alexa compatible dimmer to control a room full of standard led bulbs.

I wouldn't use regular GU10 downlights for such a large area. There are bigger LED downlights and LED flat panels capable of >1000 lumens.

My Dad always jokingly ask "where's my 100% discount", sometimes the person at the counter would say "sorry I forgot" and knock off whatever the standard trade discount was.... But that was the days before computers.

What is it you want to buy? They can't zero rate materials. Not allowed unless they supply and fit.

Or glue two layers together top one wider than the bottom. That way only straight cuts.

Never used leveling compound myself so can anyone else comment on the issue of surface laitance? Or is that only liquid screed?

Not actually sure who makes venturi showers (of the type designed to boost the hot flow). Ideal Standard used to make one called the Trevi Boost but I think its out of production.

Two different things... 1) Aerated Heads - suck in air to make a low flow rate feel larger that it is by adding bubbles. 2) Venturi Heads - try to improve the flow from a gravity fed hot using energy from the mains pressure cold. I've no experience of venturi heads. Aerated heads don't really do it for me. I'd rather have a full pint of beer than one with a large head on it ? PS: Aerated heads also use a venturi but it's to suck in air instead of hot water.

A shower head cannot improve water pressure over that from the supply, All a shower head does is trade off pressure for flow and change your perception ... a) With no holes in the shower head you would get best pressure but no flow. b) With lots of holes or one large one you would get no pressure but best flow. In between there are a range of possibilities. Shower heads with a few small holes tend towards a) where as big rain type heads tend towards b). A "good" shower generally needs adequate pressure AND flow rate, a combination that may not be possible from the supply. In which case improvements to the supply can be made (fatter pipes, pumps, accumulators depending on the cause). Before going down that route measure the static pressure and separately the flow rate (in L/Min) with NO shower head connected. If they are both good then it should be possible to find an acceptable shower head without needing to improve the supply. Some/many heads have restrictors or restrictions in them that effect both perceived pressure and flow. Some can be removed some not. In one case I took apart a shower head and drilled out a hole in the swivel ball to reduce the restricting effect it was having. Last time I looked a few advertiser's on Amazon mentioned they had removable restrictors. Some heads also have filters in them that get blocked/scaled.

+1 Just a heads up... Some water companies try to charge vat on things like diversions or work off site in the road, claiming they can only zero rate work on site. This isn't correct. VAT 708 has a section 3.3.4 that covers.. and there are other words in that section that cover "works closely connected" with the construction of a new house which is pretty open ended. Worth a read.

+1

Dee, silly question but how do you know it's heating when it shouldnt? The evidence you have for that may help diagnose the problem. When the heating comes on unexpectedly at the wrong time go to the controller and check if it's calling for heating or hot water or nothing. My guess it will be calling for hot water not heating and the diverter is sticking allowing hot from the boiler into the heating circuit instead.