Temp

At least four possibilities... 1) A potential buyer got the report done as part of his due diligence checks. 2) The applicant anticipated an objection on the ground of surface water so got the report done and submitted it with an application at some stage. 3) It was requested during discussions with the planners prior to an application. 4) It was requested to satisfy a planning condition. If you haven't already done so ask the planners to see all planning files relating to the site. We found there were at least three sets of documents for our site (in England)... * The online documents. * The official planning file which was virtually identical to the online version. * The planning officers own file that had documents such as correspondence with previous owners. There were also documents filed under different references..eg "Land north of..." and "Land south of...". When I asked to see the planning file for "Land north of.." I wasn't also given the file for "Land south of.." Once I discovered multiple files existed I was able to make an appointment to see them. Not sure if that's still possible or you can only see the online files these days.

Some Heatmiser stats are 12v and/or use network cable. I've not checked your one.

Not sure a CU that low down is allowed now? Part M?

While its still in the hands of the executor there are a few legal issues to be aware of.. The executor has a duty to realise the most he can from the sale property for all the beneficiaries. If he thinks he could get more by putting it on the open market or auctioning it off he probably should. On the other hand selling to a family member at market value might reduce costs (no estate agents fees?) and increase the amount each beneficiary receives so that would be ok. If the uncle is executor, beneficiary and potential buyer he probably needs to be squeaky clean in case another beneficiary gets upset later. The tax man is also fussy about the value of property. They will accept valuations from estate agents BUT if the property eventually sells for more or less than the valuation they expect/allow the executor to revise the figures used for probate and pay or reclaim any extra IHT. The fact that it has "development potential" may increase the valuation that estate agents put on the property increasing IHT if applicable. That said, I don't believe the executor is obliged to actually develop the property in any way - just get the maximum he can for it "as is". Once the property has been sold by the executor any further development wouldn't be subject to these issues.

Ours is an Eaton Metalclad. I think their website is poor. http://www.eaton.uk.com/EatonUK/ProductsSolutions/Electrical/ProductsServices/ResidentialLight-Commercial/Memera/Metalcladconsumerunits/index.htm All metal range. http://www.eaton.uk.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eatonuk/@elec/documents/content/pct_565624.pdf

This BT forum has some replies from tech staff. Might be the place to ask about the droop. https://community.bt.com/t5/Landline/bd-p/Faults

I would try and get it sorted now because adding/moving a pole later can be expensive. https://www.openreach.com/help-and-support/obtaining-wayleaves Tell them about the boat you need to work on? As a last resort offer to pay for the extra pole? Think that would be around £1k?

Ouch.

Ideally measure a bath in show room. Sometimes the dimensions aren't very accurate at all. Sorry if this is sucking eggs time but... rigidity of mounting makes any sealer last a lot longer. eg beef up the floor if its chipboard, build a decent frame/fix batten to wall to support edges etc.

This thread sounds similar. Turned out to be the temperature sensor/thermocouple.. https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/glow-worm-boiler-not-firing-up-update-now-fixed.246017/

Seems the Tile Association have an inspection service for dissatisfied customers... https://www.tiles.org.uk/ "Not happy with a recent tiling job.... we can help you with our technical inspections service.," I've no idea if they charge but perhaps they would comment on your photos first?

More info on the system required. Any error messages/numbers on the boiler or no display? Possibly the water temperature sensor in the boiler. Could also be switch contacts on a diverter valve not passing on the signal to fire the boiler?

+1 No need for a Party Wall Agreement if you own all the properties. The first step in the process of complying with the Party Wall Act involves writing letters to the neighbours notifying them of the work. If they agree to the work there is no need for a full Party Wall Agreement. You are hardly likely to disagree with yourself ! Its only if they disagree do you need to go to the next step and involve Surveyors to draw up a Party Wall Agreement. I agree with Judy's comment about an SE. You might consider retaining the SE not just to design the basement work but also to help interview the builder and make a few visits during construction. A basement addition isn't something to undertake without a lot of care as this couple recently found out.. https://metro.co.uk/2019/12/03/couple-handed-1000000-bill-botched-basement-conversion-led-house-collapse-11264594/ If you haven't already thought about it... You must notify your lender and possibly seek their permission for the work. Ditto your insurance company. It would also be essential to make sure the builder is fully insured - take a copy of his certificate and contact to company to ensure he's paid the premium and it would cover you and the neighbours if your house fell into the hole. In the story above it looks like two properties were destroyed (their flat and the one upstairs) and the houses either side damaged.

Personally I love tiling walls. I've mentioned it before but my Dad was into DIY and taught be how to level tiles with a rubber faced block he called a Blat/Blatt. I've not been able to buy one for years so recently made a new one. You use a notched trowel to create ridges in the adhesive which can be squashed down to adjust the depth and angle of the tile to match its neighbours..

+1 Its quite possible to have a mixed system. Most UFH manufacturers have a manifold with valve/mixer on the front end that is designed to be connected to a rad based system, typically its connected to the nearest rad to the extension. Personally I wouldn't bolt on UFH like that. I would run separate pipes from the boiler to the UFH so the UFH can be on its own zone/stat. That way it can call for heat independently to the rads. eg UFH can call for heat when the rads are off.

The loop flow temperature sets the maximum power output. If you set it too low the room temperature might not reach the temperature set on the stat when it's very cold outside. So monitor the set and actual room temperatures in January.

I think 14mm is way beyond what you should fix with adhesive (You would need a trowel with massive notches). It really looks like a floor prep issue. Not really sure what to recommend. If you can't face getting him to rip it all up try scribing the bottom of the skirting to match. Yes it's a bodge but should make it less noticeable.

Consider what happens if the relative drops down dead the day after purchasing the place. You might have no contract with whoever inherits it or the tax man. Ideally you should buy the place together and get your respective shares listed in the title deeds. Lets assume all goes well. I don't think he can just "give" you the plot as there are tax rules on the transfer of land. I believe it would be counted as a sale at the new improved value it has once planning permission has been granted. The relative might have to pay CGT if the land isn't part of his garden/PPR. I think you need proper legal advice.

Good question. Some LED transformers come with 4 wires pre-fitted. These typically use Blue and Brown for the Neutral and Live, and Red and Black for the output to the LED. A few use a pair of white wires for the output to the LED. Examples Red & Black https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/led-drivers/1314709?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Displays_And_Optoelectronics-_-Led_Lighting_System_Components|Led_Drivers-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-448230579044&s_kwcid=AL!7457!3!243856786484!!!g!448230579044!&gclid=CjwKCAiAlajvBRB_EiwA4vAqiBjcwAYuXAuSTLcWupBLaDa8c9_zxDSwP5aH7y6xnNez7IjKBjWLOxoCFmUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds White: https://www.amazon.co.uk/LED-Driver-Transformer-240V-Interference/dp/B00BMBKHC2 In the regulations.. Mains voltages (eg 240V) are "Low Voltage" or LV LCD voltages (<50V) are "Extra Low Voltage" or ELV. Not sure if this is current but.. https://electrical.theiet.org/media/2063/bs-7671-2018-corrigendum-dec-2018.pdf It says.. I believe both of the wires between the LED controller and LED lamp should be treated as line conductors so you could use any of those colours.

When we built our house we left one bathroom unfinished. Quickly became a store room. 12 years later I'm just starting to finish it. The water in the Geberit cistern is 12 years old yet still clear. Supply is off so surprised it hadn't all evaporated away. Mains water no softener.

Got a link to the LED and transformer?

I tried injecting spray foam into a stud wall in a garage once. Went round the other side to find the foam had expanded so much it had pushed the plasterboard off the wall so the wall now looked pregnant.

Screwfix also have red & black.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/nexans-speaker-cable-2-core-x-24-strand-25m-black-red/8895t

If you just need wire.... 0.5mm^2 red and black speaker cable.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-METERS-2-X-0-5MM-Red-and-Black-Speaker-Cable-Auto-HIFI-Boat-speaker-wire/152132141794?hash=item236bc842e2:g:feQAAOSw-dBTv8Um&redirect=mobile If you need connectors each end these will be specific to the make of LED fitting.

Most manufactures recommend a mortar mix (4 or 5 parts sand to 1 of cement and some plasticiser). Should probably prime the WBP with PVA first. Think the idea is to ensure the uneven underside of the tray is supported uniformly to prevent the tray cracking. Some make this a warranty requirement. Probably a few YouTube vids on this.