Temp

The term warm roof is ambiguous. Some people use it to mean a warm loft others that the insulation is above the rafters so the rafters are warm. Personally I would encourage people to use the following terms.. Cold loft - insulation is at joist level Warm loft - insulation is at rafter level Cold roof - rafters are on the cold side of the insulation (eg the insulation is between or under the rafters or at joist level. Warm roof - rafters are on the warm side of the insulation (eg the insulation is mainly above, but possibly some between, the rafters). The above also effects how/if the loft is ventilated. Are there any drawings available to show what was intended? Building Control might have a set?

Google Bisazza gradient mosaic tiles. One source.. http://www.tilesnaturally.co.uk/bisazza/ Or from Aliexpress.. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1866616732.html

+1 Are you already on your year out or does that start next year? Many uni provide help finding placements.

Forgot to seal a top access shower trap/waste. First use it was raining on my computer in the room below. Near death experience... I embedded some 10mm threaded rod in the concrete slab for my shed to make it easier to bolt down later. Some days later I fell backwards and one ended up a few inches to one side of my head. Nearly impaled. I spent the next 10 mins cutting up some 40mm pipe to put over them.

If it comes with a reel of PLA I would experiment with that first. If the battery adaptor gets hot then PLA might creep or even soften. I think it will be ok but if it is an issue try ABS or PETG. The nozzle temperature needed for PETG (235-265C) is slightly higher than ABS (235C). Find out what the max nozzle temperature is for your printer. If not hot enough to print PETG it's possible you can upgrade the nozzle heater (aka hotend) cheaply. The heater is usually just a small aluminium block with a heater resistor and thermocouple in it. The Chinese churn these out by the bucket load. One for mine cost from £6 to about £30. Some people say you need to put the printer in a heated cabinet to print ABS reliably and since a lot of my printer is actually made from PLA the whole printer could melt :-)

There are many different types of 3D printer.. https://3dinsider.com/3d-printer-types/ I think that was from an SLA resin printer which might be more brittle but has other advantages such as faster printing. Some of the plastic filaments used in FDM printers is stronger. Occasionally with FDM you can get delamination between layers just as wood splits more easily along the grain but I've not had too many issues with that, especially not with PETG plastic.

Many many decades ago I was at a military camp trying to win camp competition for best turned out room. Running out of ideas to improve things we removed every screw we could find. Not all were brass so we had to "acquire" some so they all matched. The brass heads were polished to a high shine and the slots aligned. As i recall we got extra rounds on the range :-)

+1 There is a lot of force when someone dumps themselves down on the edge of the loo seat after a night on the town. The top of the frame tends to move away from the wall and the bottom towards it. How well is his timber frame fixed to the floor/wall? Is that Wedi foam board? I like Wedi board but I wouldn't use it for this. The back of the pan i have isn't dead flat and i think this could cause forces to be concentrated at a few points. I'm concerned tiles might crack or be pushed into the wedi. I'm going to use Hardibacker behind the one I'm doing.

I recently did a mini survey of the dimensions of wall hung pans as I have one to do. The 180mm dimension between bolts was common to the 8 pans I looked at. However other dimensions varied. In some cases this could be rectified by raising or lowering the whole pan 10mm but not always. In 2 out 8 the vertical spacing between pipes and bolts was different to the geberit frame. Eg the 8mm bolts were higher or lower in relation to the two pipes.

Its called Localism. The CIL is meant to replace other planning charges such as S106 agreements. Its intended to fund infrastructure projects like schools and roads that are needed to support new housing developments. Councils draw up a list of projects needing funding over say five years, and estimate the floor area of houses that will be built over same period. They effectively divide one by the other to calculate the CIL. I once saw the spreadsheet my council drew up for their CIL scheme. Not all councils switched from S106 to the CIL straight away although the government introduced an incentive. They limited the number of S106 contributions that could be collected for the same thing. For example only 5 S106 contracts could be agreed to fund the same playground.

You should be exempt BUT make sure you follow the exemption process to the letter or you can loose it. The forms are here.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200136/policy_and_legislation/70/community_infrastructure_levy/5 I think you want form 8 not sure about others. The key point is do not start any work on site until the paperwork is done.

Plastic pipe is almost never straight so much prefer copper on show.

Thinking back to my physics O-level... Concrete has about 2-2.4 times the density of water so 200mm of EPS could float even with 85-100mm of concrete on top.

Here are the filaments I've tried.. ZIRO Fluo orange PLA (nice bright orange) had two reels. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075M47QR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 SUNLU Black PLA+ (The "+" means its a modified PLA, not sure if there is any advantage though) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B073PB9XWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 AMZ3D White PETG https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072JCPJRJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Rigid Ink Black PETG https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0164CNSAQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 All of the above have worked ok for me. Not always first time. I've had to experiment with the setting many many times. I keep a notebook and try to write down settings that work. I've also tried these filled filaments. The results were interesting but I cant say they were stunning. Perhaps more work needed on my part. Haven't purchased a full reel yet. Formfutura Bronze filled PLA (sample only) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IBMXNWU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Proto-Pasta Magnetic Iron filled PLA (sample only) https://shop.3dfilaprint.com/proto-pasta-magnetic-iron-175mm-samples-1495-p.asp?_=&variantid=1500 Have previously posted some photos of prints from the above. It can be tricky getting some filaments to stick to the bed and not move about which wrecks the print. You can adjust the bed temperature, head gap, print speed, height at which fan turns on etc etc. I've tried various internet tricks and covering the glass bed with this blue tape seems to help. https://www.screwfix.com/p/scotchblue-masking-tape-41m-x-50mm/8177x?ds_kid=39700029430360586&ds_rl=1249416&ds_rl=1241690&ds_rl=1245250&ds_kid=39700029430360586&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249475&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2vjuBRCqARIsAJL5a-JIJ9YCmdON9oqo72yvwGl6Ur3ghanoUmDMhNggR0QWQYN8UhxvbM8aAuINEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I have also used the "Pritstick method". Also works but takes longer than tape.

Yes. The slicer (eg Cura) estimates length and weight. Not sure how accurate it is as I've never checked. Think you will be surprised how much you can print with a 1kg reel of PLA. Note that filled filaments (steel powder etc) are denser so 1kg is shorter. Exotic filaments can be hard to print with. You can get issues with warping, clogging, lumpy bits etc. I can't say I've been overly impressed with the few I've tried. Nothing like as good as suggested on youtube. Perhaps it's me. I would try to get samples before investing a lot of money on a full reel of something expensive. PLA is the easiest to use. PEEK PETG is worth trying next if you need stronger prints without the agro of ABS. Edit: Sorry I meant PETG not PEEK.

OT: massive foreign hgv has just driven into the tiny car park I'm in by mistake. It's about two containers long! Too long to turn corners. Will have to reverse out the way it came. Mad.

Ive had several different makes via Amazon. Mainly because there are usually at least a few reviews. Will try and post a list of what I've used when I get home.

Not familiar with that one but looks OK. I recommend finding a good user forum for it and asking for set up tips and tricks, plus any upgrades they recommend, that sort of thing.

Celotex say 120-150 kPa in here depending on version. https://www.just-insulation.com/downloads/celotex-rigid-insulation/celotex-certification/bba-certificate-flooring-14-nov.pdf

I can't answer that. I had a quick look in Approved Doc A.... https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/429060/BR_PDF_AD_A_2013.pdf But its not easy to find where its mentioned. One bit implies 8m.

Re visibility splay.. Unless its a very large plot its unlikely the visibility splays fit within it. The next best thing is for them to fit within the highway verge. Get a decent plan and draw the visibility splay on it. Check who owns the land under it. If its not part of the highway verge you should get the vendor to sort out the visibility splay. If the vendor owns the land under the visibility splay then speak to your solicitor about giving you a covenant over that land. It might require changes to both the plot deeds and the vendors deeds. If the vendor doesn't own the land then beware. The vendor should get the necessary covenants in place from the owner. To do this he may have to pay the land owner. This could be a lot of money because the owner knows you can't build house without it. In effect the land owner can hold you to ransom. Don't let this issue put you off unless the vendor is unable to give/get you the covenant needed. However it would/could be risky to purchase it without it being sorted in writing

Can you raise the doors?

I think building regs require walls over a certain length to have a pier, pillar or wall at right angles. Think that's about 11m but check part A.

Unfortunately I think BS 5837 recommends no topsoil removal within the tree protection area. Google found... https://www.trees.org.uk/Trees.org.uk/files/b6/b6a05a2e-ec86-4d23-aa92-42fdec8d67c0.pdf See page 2 above and below the subheading "Development near trees". Later on it proposes a solution. We had a planning condition requiring us to construct a permeable driveway. Later the planners told us that the hardcore we had used for a temporary surface wasn't considered permeable but we werent going to rip it all up. Since only a small part was under the trees we just ignored it and put gravel on top. So we are in breech of our planning condition. That was 12 years ago. Tree is still fine and the planners never mentioned it again.

Every hour sounds about right to me. Just a heads up.. Avoid cutting through a log into the ground. Dirt/soil really blunts chainsaw blades quickly.