Temp

Google found... https://www.morrlaw.com/commercial-property-law/easement-rights/

I believe the reason for the delay mentioned in the OP is because the land registry don't like splitting land into two titles unless one is being sold at the same time. One reason for this is because you cannot grant yourself a covenant (or an easement?). So for example I don't think you can give yourself a right to run services over the existing plot if you still own both.

If this AAV is going on the end of a branch off a stack then yes it's best at the end of that branch. If it's going at the top of a stack my understanding is that BCO like the stack furthest from the main sewer in the road to be open vented. Any other stacks can have AAV. However I believe current regs only require one open vented stack for every 5 houses (or something like that) so you might be able to argue the toss with the BCO.

I think you will have to get someone locally to look at it. If setback is actually working (eg putting the switch on the stat to the Clock position reduces the temperature at night by 4C) then the Clock must be controlling setback mode in the stats. Either that or the manual is wrong. That's because manual for the stat says... If you want the clock to turn off the heating totally instead then it will need to be rewired. I think it should be possible to add a two position switch that is labeled "Setback" and "ON/OFF". In one position the Clock would put it into setback at night (as now) and in the other it would turn it OFF totally at night.

Humm, see what you mean. Doesn't look like setback is working. Lounge should probably have fallen to perhaps 16-17C by 5.45am - unless the place is very well insulated. Did you notice which if any LEDs on the lounge stat were illuminated? Right hand LED should be yellow if its correctly in setback mode (and not calling for heat). Left hand LED either on or off depending if its calling for heat or not.

Check the building regs (Approved doc J) as they specify things like the gap behind a stove and the minimum projection of the hearth in front. So you might find the minimum depth is determined for you. For ease of construction choose a stove with feet that the maker certifies cannot raise the hearth over 100C. Approved doc J is hard to follow until you realise some bits apply to stoves that are certified and others to stoves and fire baskets that aren't.

Too much demand for housing to care about the EPC? How about Increased stamp duty on badly insulated houses? Would that make people wake up? Make it reclaimable if the house is improved within 3 years? Any money raised used to provide grants for insulation? If not stamp duty then how about CGT or some other tax on sellers of badly insulated houses?

Ok after another look I can't tell from your original photos of the stats which of the following modes the system was designed to operate in.. 1) The clock determines if the stats are in normal or setback modes. or 2) The clock turns the whole system on/off (and the stats are wired permanently in normal temperature mode). You would need to figure out if the time clock is controlling the clock input on the stats. The manual for the stats says that (with the switch in the clock position).. https://www.heatmiser.com/en/download/211/english/9550/ds-sb-v3-2.pdf If that's how your system was designed to work then I would expect the boiler to wake up in the night sometimes, probably several hours after the clock switches off and the temperature drops 4C below the set temperature. However if the clock inputs to the stats are permanently live then the clock might be intended to turn the whole system on and off (and it has a fault or wiring error that prevents it turning off at night). I believe the optional link on the clock just converts the relay output from "volt free" mode to "Switched 230V" mode. I would expect only one to be connected to the UH3, probably the NO output. If more than one has a connection where does it go?

Think I would try submitting four separate planning applications identical to your existing PP. I know there would be fees but at least it would be clear. Edit: When you submit your commencement notice for your self build make 100% sure to quote the right planning reference!

I might be wrong but i believe the difference is minor. The TC-02 is a single channel time to clock and the TM4-TS is a four channel. I believe the time clock shown on the UH3 wiring diagram only controls the setback time. So does it matter if all stats switch from normal temperature to setback temperature at the same time (TC-02) or in groups at different times (TM4-TS)? I suppose some people might want to setback different rooms at different times but you are after the ability to turn off bedrooms totally not just setback. One solution would be to replace the stat in your bedroom with a fully programmable stat. That would allow you to program it to be fully off at night not just set back. The boiler might fire up to heat other rooms but yours would be off. We have Heatmiser programmable stats and you can set the temperature to at least four different values at different times. Eg you could set.. Waking up temperature (20C) Daytime temperature (18C) Evening temperature (22C) Night temperature (10C or lower so it's effectively off, just acting as a frost stat). You can also alter the times it switches between these temperatures.

We just chuck em in a drawer.

Sorry forget I mentioned DHW header. I was having a brain fart.

Yes on setback the boiler will probably switch off for an hour or two at night then may fire up again to maintain the setback temperature. In the winter indoor air can be very dry so you might find a humidifier helps more than reducing the temperature more than the 4C that the set back provides. Check if any water is coming out of the pressure relief valve? Or from DHW header tank overflow?

Sometimes the water can get sucked out of a trap by fast flowing water elsewhere in the system. _if_ that's the problem then adding an air admittance valve to the waste near the sink may help. These let air into the pipe breaking the suction and preventing the water being sucked out of the traps.

Short answer is Yes. It opens and closes so the set temperature is maintained 24/7. It does not mean the burner in the boiler runs 24/7. I think there have been several (3?) versions of that stat. This looks like the manual for one of them.. https://www.heatmiser.com/en/download/211/english/11237/heatmiserds-sb.pdf The slide switch is described on page 2. It has three positions.. 1 = ON Stat ignores any Time Clock and controls heating all the time, turning it on and off as necessary to maintain the set temperature 24/7. Clock = Set back mode This mode uses a separate clock that either sends 230V to the stat (Daytime) or doesn't send 230V (Night time). When the thermostat receives a 230v signal from the time clock the stat will control the temperature according to the dial setting. When no 230v signal is received from the time clock, the thermostat will operate in setback mode and automatically reducing the set temperature by 4°C. So if set to 21C the room should be heated to 21C in the daytime and 17C (21-4=17) at night time. 0 = OFF Heating OFF. Stat does not control the room temperature. The best setting IMHO would be to leave it in Clock/setback mode all the time but make sure the clock is set right... I would set the clock so that night time/setback mode starts about an hour before bedtime and finishes an hour before I get up. I say "an hour before bedtime" because it takes the house awhile to cool down (eg it should still be warm when you go to bed). If you find the house too cold just before bedtime then reduce this time from 1 hour to say 30 mins. I say "an hour before I get up" to give time for the house to warm up (eg so its 21C when I get up). If you find the house hasn't reached the target temperature (21C) when you get up then increase this time so it has more time to warm up. If you have a party that goes on late into the night then you might consider switching it to position 1 (ON) but next day put it back to clock/setback.

If you feel rich many glass shops will make one for you using low iron glass to reduce the green tint on the edges.

Says you can reclaim VAT on telephone sockets and cables but not telephones here... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/goods-and-services-you-can-claim-for-under-the-vat-diy-scheme#T Presumably talking about extensions.

Actually if the return is hinged you could open it once inside so it doesn't get in the way.

No idea. Some seem to be hinged.

More googling found this. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELEGANT-Frameless-Shower-Enclosure-Support/dp/B07Y4DBH6X/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Shower+Enclosure+Cubicle+1200x900+-sliding&qid=1582922615&s=diy&sr=1-9 They appear to have.. a) 700 wide pane plus a 300 wide return with fittings in 8mm glass for £108 b) 900 wide pane with fittings for £94 Total £202 inc free delivery. Do you own checks as I'm unwinding with a beer after long drive. PS With such a large tray it seems odd to me to restrict the showering area to 700 x 900. I think I would go for a hinged door so the whole tray is available.

Just for info.. I found an online quote place.. https://madetomeasureglassuk.com/toughened-glass/toughened-clear-glass and entered 6mm toughened glass 1800 x 700 1800 x 900 1800 x 300 Came to £237 + VAT just for regular glass with no fittings or mounting holes. The fittings can be quite expensive. Might not be much saving over a complete shower kit?

We had several missing basins and WC. Had to seal the open pipes so the pressure test worked but otherwise our BCO was happy. Think he was more concerned about underground leaks.

Consider looking for "low efflorescence" bricks to reduce chances of getting white salt deposits. Get bricklayers to make a 1m*1m sample wall as a quality control reference?

Our SE recommended 2m deep trench foundation and we've had no problems. House a few doors down was recommended 3m deep trench foundation by different SE. As a result they got estimates for piling which were slightly cheaper. Problem is when they started piling they found they had to go much deeper than expected and it ended up costing quite a bit more. Don't think it occured to them to do a trial hole.

Learn something new every day here. I've always used wire wool but got into the habit of blowing off any wire/dust so perhaps that's why I've not seen this or just been lucky. There is something very satisfying about assembling copper pipe and just waving a blow lamp and watching the little silver line appear. Equally nothing as frustrating as trying to solder a joint with a bit of water in the pipe.