Temp

That looks ok to me. I didn't realise there was a shower to the right.

The limit is probably the edge of the WC seat and the width of your a...e if that's wider :-) I'd be tempted to build a false wall to provide enough depth to move the pan to the right.

We had similar issue in our WC which also needed to meet part m. Took ages to find a basin that was big enough to wash big hands but not too deep front to back to allow the required gap between basin and opposite wall. Ended up using wall mounted taps and spout which we now like a lot.

Our interior beams were done with Danish Oil 12 years ago. Only maintenance need since has been to remove dust and cobwebs. Floors were done with Osmo. Only had to recoat a WC so far.

Daily mail is a bit slow. I reported on this idea last Tuesday.. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-8136299/Doctors-turns-one-ventilator-nine-genius-DIY-mechanics.html

As they are inside I suggest testing both Danish Oil and Osmo to see which you prefer. Small samples of Osmo are available cheap but I think you might prefer Danish on beams. Each to his own. https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmdzzBRC7ARIsANdqRRnRo1NrZzs1M4x_1LbrIgptE1XQdZWINWjsKFIzKNfbu-v3ErOg73MaAmvqEALw_wcB

PS: If you need to clean up a lot of heavily weathered oak I found a cheap Silverline MOP with a 36 grit disc to be the best method.

If these beams are external you need to decide if you want them to go silver or stay honey colour. We wanted them to stay honey colour so... 12 years ago I started with Danish Oil but found it needs far too much maintenance. Ideally you need to recoat it every year if you want it to stop it going grey. I was typically only managing two coats every other year and found it too much work. Some years back someone recommend Osmo UV Protection Oil... https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-uv-protection-oil?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9tbzBRDVARIsAMBplx_N4V-DSbaWxJpKb09f-mvyNTdk_iFW8WHAZvnDZ6BQlDv9jNxTJxgaAmAnEALw_wcB And I've found that way better than Danish Oil. Costs double but lasts at least twice as long. Only thing is... Freshly sanded Oak is a bit white. When you apply Danish Oil it darkens to a nice honey colour. If you just use Osmo it may stay a bit white, at least to my eye. So on freshly (re)sanded oak I've been using a coat or two of Danish followed by two of Osmo. The Danish changes colour as it dries so wait before deciding it's still too white. Neither Danish or Osmo need sanding required between coats, just slap it all on with the largest brush you can get in the tin easily. For internal oak we used Danish Oil on beams and doors and Osmo Hard Wax Oil on floors... https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9tbzBRDVARIsAMBplx-9_aKFxpq53rfCnwQWaogoySRDTIAi_fOwSe0BWnNC37Da9gOL6M4aAmemEALw_wcB

+1

12 Years ago the SE we used for our build (between Huntingdon and Kettering) was Geoffrey Thompson at T&F Design in Saffron Walden. I don't know if he's still there.

Call/email them? I don't know but you could try sticking a bit of solvent weld pipe to the bend (eg not the joint area) and leave over night if that sticks well the joint should be ok.

Don't think the CIL has been introduced in Scotland (yet) but in England yes it would. There could also be a problem with the self build exemption. For example if you rushed to start building (in order to preserve a grant beyond its 3 year limit) and then at a later date applied for an increase in area under Section 73 - there would be a problem because works had already started. I've no idea if you would become liable for the CIL on the lot of just the increase in area.

The £ is down over past week but the big fall was through 2016 when it fell from 1:36 to around 1:11 to the euro. It's currently 1:08. Price rises might be due to supply issues rather than exchange rates. Radio reported shortage of European truck drivers willing to travel abroad because they might not be allowed back.

Our planners are changing the validation checklist for Full Planning Applications to add the following: Daylight/sunlight assessment Required where there is a potential adverse impact upon the current levels of sunlight/daylight of adjoining properties and/or of future occupiers of the proposed development A sunlight indicator test using the British Research Establishment’s ‘Site layout planning for daylight and sunlight – A guide to good practice.’

+1 This is all info that might be needed to design the foundations. See the key top right. Seems mostly self explanatory. Sway frames need to resist lateral loads as well as vertical so you shouldn't just sit those on block walls without care. They should be bolted down to something more solid like the strip foundations. Not all Architects are comfortable designing foundations. Many/most prefer to use a Structural Engineer.

+1 Yes if the studs (and any metal plate/pad) are wider than the beam, extra stud "brackets" wouldn't serve to locate the beam as they would be too far apart.

Thanks @MintSprint. Hopefully I'll never need to do one. Any idea how much a professional would charge?

Not many photos out there but I found this one showing one method. I think they have chosen this method (brackets) to minimise the width. If your studs are in a wall I reckon fixing two taller studs either side so the RSJ sits in a |U| would also work.

Perhaps possible to replace the chrome waste with a regular plug on a chain type type and remove all the geberit lever mechanisim? Worth a look if you already have it. Not quite the same but we used wall mounted taps. We couldn't get the basin we wanted without a tap hole so used a waste pull to fill it up.

This look interesting. Its a manifold allowing four masks on one ventilator. Original paper published in 2015 in anticipation of a pandemic. No idea if it makes medical sense. Can't find the .stl anywhere. https://file.scirp.org/Html/2-1750025_49209.htm#ref10

Thanks, the interesting stuff is in the comments at the bottom. Problems such as copyright, patents and the need for medical grade materials get mentioned. Several 3D printer farms have already offered to help. Link looks interesting... https://github.com/brentjackson/OpenRespirator/wiki

If you decide to install a fake alarm I suggest you don't buy a fake bell box as pretty sure crooks recognise the fakes. I'd buy a real bell box and just not bother to connect it up.

I believe the RIng can be used without a subscription but you don't get recording. You only get live video. At least that's what I've heard. There are alternatives.. https://eternallyconfuzzled.com/video-doorbell-without-subscription

I wondered if those of us with 3D printers could print ventilator parts? All I can find is a news story about a company in Italy that had printed some part for a hospital.

Somehow I missed the original post. Normally when you perform an operation on something you have to select the bodies to perform it on. Doesn't it let you select both bodies?