Temp

It means.. "If its NOT one of these two things... 1) a hip to gable 2) Junction between roof on an extension and existing house Then the following applies.." So for example a dormer window is neither of these two so must be set back from the eaves by 0.2 meters.

Not sure about balustrading but I've used Go Glass in Cherry Hinton for other things - 8mm frameless showers, mirror and a few sealed units. https://goglass.co.uk/

I guess you tried the computerised footpath maps maintained by the county council footpath officer? The neighbours may have fenced off the footpath but its not that easy to make a right of way dissappear legally. In addition I don't think they can claim ownership under the rules on adverse possession if the footpath still exists legally. It might be possible to persuade them to let you run services in return for not creating a fuss about the footpath? I'm not recommending this but... Only a land owner can evict someone from a piece of land. So if you were able to somehow occupy the land you need then the neighbours that did the same some years ago would not be able to evict you unless they legally own it. You can check who owns small pieces of land by doing a "map search" at the land registry. The exact boundary cant be determined that way but they should be able to identify if there is a strip between you and them owned by the council or third party.

https://www.cse.org.uk/advice/advice-and-support/how-much-electricity-am-i-using Says.. Washing machine is 1200-3000W Electric ovens 2000-2200 Freezer 200-400 Fridge 40-120 Computer 80-100 Call it 3500W to 6000W total Without more info on the actual appliances I'd be looking for something that can do over 6000W continuously. I suspect "Peak" figures are usually only guaranteed for a few seconds, eg to allow for motor start up.

You can still get hand saws and chisels sharpened for you for a price but there is a certain satisfaction in doing it yourself. I've bought a few second hand wood planes off ebay in the past and there are good youtube videos showing how to tune them up. Not tried this co but google found they do sharpening.. https://www.prosharp.co.uk/services.asp?c=s Hand & Tennon saws Sharpen set & recut as required from £20.00 Wood chisels - Bevelled edge/Firmer/sash Up to and including 1" from £4.00 Above 1" from £5.00

What is your overall floor thickness? We opted for a beam and block first floor.

Got our last appliance from AO. They even delivered on a Sunday.

One other thing to check.. When previous extensions were built the planners may have removed permitted development rights by adding a condition. Should be possible to check that with the planning department.

Unfortunately HMRC can be reluctant to give any tax advice before the fact. I had to call their IHT help line recently and it even mentioned this in the recorded message you get.

I agree. Normally permitted development provided not more than half the original garden has been built on nor would it be within 7 meters of the rear boundary.

Its 5% but you can reclaim that (so 0%) but its not relevant here as already residential. I think anything but option 4 is risky. The rules I've seen are pretty clear about the demolishing all buildings on site and/or only retaining a front wall if required by planning.

Other possible adhesive would be a PU adhesive like Tiger seal or Puraflex. Sticks plastic and metal well. Someone here recommended it for sticking plastic trim back on cars and i've used it for that a few times now. Think there are black and white versions. Gets everywhere if not careful.

I can see a jubilee clip where the wc connects to the stack. I wonder if that joint is gas tight? Pressure testing the drain would tell you if there was a leak but not where it was. The kit to do a pressure test is about £40.

+1 Without ventilation water rushing down waste pipes can suck water out of traps leaving them empty enough to let gas back in when the water stops running. That could be happening anywhere there is a trap - basin, bath, shower or even the WC. Ideally there should be an AAV on that WC stack but if i understand the photos correctly it was difficult for him to connect the WC to the stack in the available space. If you can trace the smell to a basin or bath it might be possible to add a small AAV to the waste pipe near the trap being affected but I think they are meant to be located above the height of the WC pan. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-af32w-air-admittance-valve/42968?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700055281954514&gclsrc=aw.ds&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtZH7BRDzARIsAGjbK2ZEICwkuS-RCIxTkjp8GPoo1URMcKhDx2zoXfiMi6z9IcABgSPJF6QaAltvEALw_wcB

I think your 2.6 x 7.4m would need full planning permission because the 7.4m part is more than half the width of the original house. Edit: Actually I think we need to know the exact outline of the original house before ANY extensions were made and if any were added after getting planning permission or were they all done under permitted development.

The two main ways of supporting a chimney after removal are 1) Gallows brackets - these look like large shelf brackets. 2) RSJ/UB - steel beam. I think you may need to expose more to see whats been done.

I'm not totally convinced by the explanation. If the mains voltage shoots up there should be sufficient isolation in the router power supply that its not transferred to the telephone line.

Just cut some 40mm thick timber and screw to the shuttering. Would take me 30mins.

If that's really what happened I'd check every electrical device that was plugged in at the time.

No. There is no floor frame.Just PIR and OSB resting on the slab as the floor. If worried the PIR might compress you can lay joists same depth as the PIR but these would be between the brick not on top. If not clear I Will try to make a diagram later but bit busy today.

How about... Concrete slab. Two courses of engineering brick to raise the wood frame off slab. DPC Between brick and frame. Once water tight.. PIR infill UFH OSB Clad outside of frame in WBP ply to prevent racking then membrane, battens and cladding. The battens and cladding can extend down over the brick courses but stop 1" off the slab to keep them and out of any water that sits on the edge of the slab. Not sure i would use electric UFH. Possibly fan heaters or an lpg heater? Before you pour slab fit duct pipe for electric to come up in the wall.

How thick is it? Our UFH system has 80mm of PIR and I wish we had more. We have engineered Wood flooring and have found in some cold winters the flow temperature has had to be cranked up to 55C to ensure enough heat goes into the rooms.

At least not in this design . In others its a different matter.

Roofs should be "designed". There are two main ways to stop the roof pushing the walls out and the roof sagging: 1) Triangulation involving tie beams in tension joining the rafters together to form a triangle. With this approach you only need a ridge board not a beam. 2) Structural Ridge beam, which involves a much stronger ridge beam supported on strong gable end walls and possibly posts elsewhere. The rafters are then strapped together so that virtually the entire roof load "hangs" from the structural ridge beam. There are also variations involving things like purlins that also transfer weight to gable walls. Given the info in the OP I would triangulate the roof with beams bolted to the rafters at ceiling height. Every other rafter or so.

HSBS choose last Friday of the month to do their system update.