Temp

No. There was a case where the owner was building a house that had a planning condition preventing separate occupation (eg it was a holiday home in garden). Half way through they got the PP amended to allow separate occupation making it eligible for the VAT reclaim. HMRC declined the the VAT reclaim on everything purchased before the PP was amended. I think the reclaim form asks for the date PP was granted. They can check this against dates on the receipts. If the CIL has been implemented in your area then do not start any work on site until you have got PP and done the exemption claim or you will loose the exemption and that can be v.expensive.

It looks like Ronseal may have discontinued their General Purpose wood preserver that I've been using. Anyone know if their "Total" range is similar? I've just wasted £ on their Shed and Fence Preserver and its just not what I'm looking for at all. Its like its pigment rather than a die.

+1 Guide here. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200187/your_responsibilities/37/planning_permission/3 See also the links on the bottom left for other things you will need to include (eg plans). There are plenty of other guides on the web. If you miss the deadline and they initiate enforcement then appeal it on the same grounds. Planning Officers in many areas are enormously overloaded and some don't even work full time so contacting them by phone can be nearly impossible.

Welcome to the forum. The creaks and pops sound like nails to me. Problem is they might be nails he used to fix down his floor rather than those holding up your ceiling. Does it occur in just one or two places or everywhere? If its localised you could try putting in a few screws yourself in that area.

I think I would cut the hole, test fit bath, remove bath and tile up to the edge of the hole. Grout tiles. Sealer around the edge of hole and fit bath. Adjust any feet under the bath. But as I said above, check the bath makers instructions first.

Just a heads up.. Ask them but elsewhere people have said Megabad don't export to the UK anymore since Brexit. You will need to find out from the maker of the bath how its meant to be supported. Many come with adjustable feet that must be used to carry the weight. Not always shown on drawings. The best procedure is to make a strong frame from 2x4 and fit a WBP top with cut out for the bath. Fit the bath and adjust the feet. Then fit a removable side panel. You might need to reinforce the floor as the feet create point loads on the floor. More WBP can be used yo spread the load. The more rigid everything is the longer any sealer will last. If the bath or floor moves or flexes when you get in and out the sealer won't last as long. Personally I hate cleaning and replacing mouldy sealers and tile grout so we opted for a free standing bath with wall mounted tap when we built our place.

+1 I'd take the cover off and either measure the switch or estimate the size of the panel cut out. Compare with dimensions on ebay.

Your SE will most likely ask for a soil condition report with lab tests. These should show if the clay shrinks or not. That and the presence of trees will determine the foundation design. If you need trenches over 3m deep then piled foundations may work out cheaper and easier. I recommend getting a percolation test done at the same time as the soil report. If you already have access to an excavator and driver offer that as it will reduce cost.

Sorry I meant is it limiting the flow rate to keep the pressure down to about 12m head.

+1 Not all clay is a problem. We"re on clay and have trees close on two sides. SE looked at ground condition report and decided we only needed trench foundations lined with compressible board for the house but the garage needed small piles due to old pond. House few doors down needed very deep piles for some reason so the SE probably saved us a lot.

I think its very likely the flush is a lift valve type rather than a syphon so just reach in through the face plate hole and lift the tube. Rapid SL video..

Back of the envelope friction loss.... 2.3m^3/hrs is about 0.64L/s Pressures loss chart on the web say expect 24mbar per meter at that rate in 22mm pipe. You have 70m so expect at least 0.024* 70 = 1.7 bar loss in the pipe alone. Am I right in thinking 1.7 bar is about 17m head? (0.1 bar per meter). Is the pump limiting pressure to about 12m head?

My builder used loads of limestone hardcore to stabilise our clay site. He effectively built a road along one side so vehicles wouldn't churn up the place.

+1 In case it helps... you should put larges radius "rest" bends at the bottom of stacks.

If you are feeling rich you can hire a Quantity Surveyor to make site visits during your build to value the work done to date and recommend how much you should pay the builder. He won't let you get to a situation where you have over paid for work done. If you decide to make a change they can also check the extra cost tbe builder quotes is reasonable. I dare say its an expensive service though.

Pay in stages and arrears (and retain say 5% of each stage payment for snagging).

Not sure if this is the latest version but unlikely to have changed.. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1990/8/section/55 Section 55(2) says...

It will be cheaper for you if you can head off enforcement. If you haven't already done do I would write to them ASAP asking them if they have considered the judgement in: "Panton and Farmer v Secretary of State for the Environment, Transport and the regions and Vale of White Horse DC [1999] JPL 461" Which you believe establishes that only abandonment, not temporary interruption, resets the four year period for enforcement. Point out that use of the structure was never abandoned. If you have already done that I'd apply for the certificate citing the same case.

Chickens are easily fooled...

Perhaps think about insurance to cover any covenants from the lost title in case someone turns up and tries to enforce. May not be that expensive. Article on visibility splays with dimensions. Local rules sometimes vary.. https://www.planninggeek.co.uk/glossary/s/splays-visibility-at-junctions/ Article says you may need 215m in a 60mph area but see the diagram for how its measured. Might be ok or not. Rainwater disposal can be a big issue if soakaways don't work, eg on clay soil. The planners will advise if a bat/newt or other survey is required. Best not to ask them though. Can cause delays. For example I think some surveys can only be done at certain times of the year. Other forum members are better placed to advise.

£100 is extortionate. Personally I wouldnt bother, just fit a bell push on the frame.

Silly question but did you wind up the spring enough?

The regs mean mains wiring outdoors is notifiable work so should get an electrician to do it and he should send paperwork to Building Control. You can save a lot by digging and filling the trenches for him. The same does not apply to 12V lighting so all the DIY sheds have switched over to selling a range of 12V plug and play lighting. Otherwise.. Mains wire needs to be suitably sized for the load, length and location. Should be buried at least 400mm deep or 600mm where the ground might be disturbed (eg under flower beds). Should be a marker tape above the cable so people digging hit that first. Where its not buried i think it should be clearly visible eg clipped to a wall not hidden in a hedge or just laying on the ground under leaf debris.

Ah so I guess that rules out something like this.. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/217365-REG/Rolls_DU30B_DU30b_Audio_Ducker_with.html/overview?gclid=Cj0KCQjwh_eFBhDZARIsALHjIKepwrHczjJzEZGgfoXvjjoFBPRjfYtov8-nXU3FERocpOcd98_Dzb0aAu5sEALw_wcB Its an auto ducking mixer.