Temp

Oil boilers aren't a great match for UFH unless you can add a buffer tank of some sort. Oil boilers don't modulate their burner, instead they turn the burner on and off to maintain the required flow temperature. This is a bit like driving a car in stop start traffic. So you might find the burner cycles on and off a lot if only one UFH loop is calling for heat. We fitted a thermal store which acts as a buffer. The store supplies the hot water for both the UFH and DHW. When the temperature in the store falls the boiler fires up and in our case runs flat out until the store is back up to temperature. The down side is that a thermal store can leak a lot of heat if not well insulated and some leave a bit to be desired in that respect. This was our first oil boiler so not sure how big aa problem the cycling issue is.

Could just concrete it but might have to remove some of the hardcore first. India stone if thats acceptable.

Perhaps look at oak veneered mdf? I mean for internal use.

Perhaps look at Saxon TCT blades. Not the best but cheap enough that you can buy more than one with different number of teeth. I'd look for something around 40 teeth. The overall diameter and the hole diameter need to match your saw. Personally I'd use a table saw for this rather than a hand held circular saw. Its difficult or rather time consuming clamping narrow boards so they can be cut down the middle with a hand held. Not enough (any) board sticks out of the side so the saw can't go past the clamp. If you have a lot to do perhaps look on YouTube for ways to turn a hand held saw into a table saw?

Difference between a warm and cold roof construction (not to be confused with a warm/cold loft).... * Cold roof - the insulation is between and under the rafters. This means there are structural elements on the cold side of the insulation (eg the top of the rafters). * Warm roof - the insulation is above the rafters. This means the structural elements are on the warm side of the insulation. The vast majority of houses built now and in the past are of the cold roof type. The risk with a cold roof is that water vapour created by people in the house can escape through the insulation and condense on the cold part of the rafters or other structural elements. There are two main ways of preventing this, both are aided by a vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation.. * Vapour permeable: If sarking boards and the roof membrane are vapour permeable then you only need to ventilate the void between the tiles and the roof membrane. * Vapour impermeable: if any sarking boards or roof membrane are not vapour permeable then you need a 50mm ventilated void below the impermeable layer. So the question you need to answer is : Are your sarking boards and roof membrane sufficiently vapour permeable that you can avoid needing a 50mm ventilated void below? My understanding is that narrow sarking boards with 3-5m gaps are considered permeable but large sheets of OSB with no gaps might not be. Discuss with your BCO or Architect.

This is what they are doing.. https://www.burges-salmon.com/news-and-insight/legal-updates/planning-and-compulsory-purchase/update-on-agricultural-occupancy-conditions/ MARKET TESTING It is possible to remove an agricultural occupancy condition though the applicant will first need to demonstrate certain things. This includes adducing evidence that the property has been marketed for sale or rent, at a substantially reduced price, to agricultural workers in the area for a significant period of time. In April 2019 the Planning Inspectorate emphasised that evidence of a robust marketing exercise is essential when applying to remove a condition. This related to an application to remove an agricultural occupancy condition at Sutton Springs Trout Fishery Grounds. The Inspector found that there had been sufficient marketing of the property as it had been consistently publicised online, included in various publications and promoted in mail campaigns. The agricultural occupancy condition was therefore successfully removed. This decision is illustrative of what level of marketing is acceptable and adds to the tips provided by the Upper Tribunal in the case of Rasbridge, Re Cefn Betingau Farm in 2012. The Tribunal found the applicants' market testing exercise was not sufficiently rigorous and suggested that the applicant should have: offered to rent the property in order to establish if there was rental value to the land; advertised the property in the specialist farming press; and made adjustments to reflect general market movements.

Now you remind me we did have a problem with the flush pipe on our Geberit cistern. The rubber seal degraded and the whole joint became loose and leaked but I think they have changed the design now..

Not seen that wording before. I suspect it means they are waiting for you to resolve issues they have raised? Or it could mean they believe the issues have been resolved?

Would be interesting to see what the small print on the warranty says. In my limited experience ... Geberit Fames will easily last 10 years. I've had flush valves fail after 4 years. The chrome plating on the flush plate buttons can also wear through in 4 years.

I wonder if its worth trying solvents like acetone. Eg clear solvents that evaporate totally. Perhaps test on scrap wood first.

+1 It won't move with the ply on it. The alternative would be to cut wedges to match and fix to the edges ?

Not seen one but only £6.. https://www.haspod.com/documents/method-statements/building-demolition-template?gclid=CjwKCAjwn6GGBhADEiwAruUcKs-oVmVP-XzXB9maGAdc56O6ThCLnpfS8HJkM1g9SjrpGKoNwuryhxoCwJ8QAvD_BwE

I very much doubt having a thinner screed will make any difference to the UFH. What pipe spacing did you go for? On a renovation Id recommend a close spacing as they can need more heat than a new build.

Thinnest I've ever seen recommended was 40mm but that was with an UFH system that meant the 40mm was all above the pipes. Screed can crack where two rooms meet at a doorway. This is due to the screed in each room shrinking towards its own centre eg pulling apart at the door way. So that crack might not be due to the thickness but 30mm isn't enough. What's going on top? Tiles - risky. Carpet - who knows. Engineered wood flooring - probably ok if thick enough (eg >18mm).

Restrictive covenants and overage clauses are normally only problem if the lender thinks they affect the value of the property to the point where the LTV is unacceptable or possibly the wording means they see the potential for legal problems. In which case I think you should be concerned about this for the same reasons. Executors have a duty to look after the interests of beneficiaries so if the wording is affecting the value of the assets negatively they have the powers to change things.

He's only shown one SVP in each room but you should consider if that's the best approach. Its' not a bad starting point if you dont yet know the room layout. These days floor insulation and screed is quite thick but you might want to check there is enough depth to accommodate a shower tray trap and the fall to the stack without having to raise the shower tray up on a plinth. Perhaps you dont mind a plinth or perhaps you want wet rooms? Sometimes you end up needing the connection into the stack very low down or even in the slab. You wouldnt be the first person to have to chip out concrete from around the stack to get the connection low enough for the shower. Consider making some room layouts to work out how far the shower trap would be from the stack. Then make cross sectional drawings showing the shower tray/trap, pipe fall, and branch connection into the stack to work out if its going to be an issue. An SVC in the corner and a WC pan with a horizontal P-trap outlet is easier overall than using a WC pan with a vertical S-trap outlet. With the former everything is above slab but you have pipes to hide. With the latter you need a connection coming up vertically through the floor but this needs to be just the right distance from the wall and makes layout changes later. There are many ways to skin that cat. Some people have no problem with boxing, some hide the pipe in cabinets, some build false walls, some hide the cistern as well as the pipe. Some use wall mounted pans. What @Nickfromwalessaid. The middle ones can be short stub stacks with AAV. Only other comments i have is that he shows the red drain running under the house. Is there any reason why it can't be run along outside the footprint ?

I think i would speak to the vendor and try and persuade them not to impose the overage or at least change the wording to make it more standard. They appear to be devaluing the property by making it hard to get a mortgage. A paddock came with our plot. Its got a very simple/standard overage clause on the paddock part only. Wasn't raised as a problem by anyone.

"Planning Consultants" in Yellow pages worked for us 13 years ago. Just ring up a few and ask if they can handle a (possibly) urgent CLUED.

Got any photos? Can you put a hose out of one velux to test another?

Good luck but from what I hear toughened glass is likely to shatter. Would it fit another window? Can you modify the window opening?

Err.. Does the plot already have a house on it? eg so that boundary walls and gates can be done under PDR for that house? If not I would hold off on those.

If you decide to start... Normally they like you to have dug and filled foundation trenches to secure your PP but officially I think anything that counts as development would do. Perhaps ask your planning officer if you can get hold of him. Remember you may have to get some planning conditions discharged first. Read the planning grant to see what they are. Typically you might need to get brick samples approved or ?? You may also need to get Building Control Approval to start. This might involve submit an application with drawings and the fee and waiting. The BCO might take a month or longer. Try and avoid complaining . It would be better to wait a few weeks and ask politely if you can start digging foundations while he is reviewing the application rather than pushing him to approve the whole package. One option might be to dig foundation trenches more than 3m away from the neighbours and insert rebar into the dirt at the ends of the trench to reinforce joints. Discuss with your SE if you have one. I don't believe they can make you get a PWA agreement before you start. Is the CIL an issue in your area? If so you also have to claim the exemption before starting work.

There is no penalty for not complying with the Party Wall Act but if a neighbour decided that a hair line crack was your fault and took you to court the judge might look less favourably on you. Read this.. https://plainview.co.uk/news/help-my-planning-permission-is-about-to-expire-what-are-my-next-steps/ You can't apply for an extension anymore. You can only resubmit. Yes the planners will consult the neighbour but that shouldn't matter. If the proposal was acceptable in planning terms last time it should be acceptable this time unless... Planning policy has changed. You make changes that make it unacceptable. Someone raises a valid planing issue that wasn't considered last time around. Note that only valid planning reasons are counted. The fact that a neighbour doesn't like something or it devalues his house are not valid reasons and should be ignored by the planners. Loss of privacy or light might be a valid objection. Ive been at a planning committee meeting where some daft members have objected on grounds that don't count. They voted down an application and the poor planning officer then has to think up valid reasons to put in the actual rejection letter. If he didn't do that and put down invalid reasons the applicant could appeal any might well win.

Timber lintels were used for hundreds of years and many modern buildings use laminated timber. They can work fine if correctly specified but thats the issue. Normally the designer would specify the make up of the lintel laminations and how they are fixed together and supported at the ends. Those details are important. 47 x 150 Eased is typically 45 x 145mm. So three would be 135mm with a 10mm gap. I wouldn't think its an issue as less than 7 % gap but we are comparing varieties of apple when the designer might require bannas. Who has checked 3 x 47 x 150 is adequate? Its not good to rely on the BCO.