Temp

+1 If he's VAT registered he MUST zero rate everything to you as that's the law. As @nod said, he will pay VAT to the window company and withhold same amount from HMRC when he makes his return for other jobs. It might help to give him a certificate (essentially a letter stating that the work relates to a new build and qualifies for zero rating, include copy of your PP, contact details etc). If he still really doesn't want to do this then you could offer to buy the windows direct, pay the VAT and reclaim it. The invoice must be in your name. His labour to you must be on separate invoice and must be zero rated because you can't reclaim it. If he is not VAT registered then you must buy the windows in your name, pay the VAT and reclaim it. He must zero rate the fitting but that's not a problem if he's not vat registered.

Ah Google say not allowed.

Can you use the earth wire for the interlink? I mean is that be allowed?

Its important that the breech is essentially continuous for the last 4+ years. For example if it was taken down for a few months in say 2019 and a new one erected then the time clock restarts then because the breech wasn't continuous. However if it is taken down and replaced/repaired over a few days the clock shouldn't restart but you are now relying on case law rather that the statutes.

Time limits on enforcement.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/ensuring-effective-enforcement#:~:text=within 4 years of substantial,essentially other changes of use). What are the time limits for taking enforcement action? In most cases, development becomes immune from enforcement if no action is taken: within 4 years of substantial completion for a breach of planning control consisting of operational development; within 4 years for an unauthorised change of use to a single dwellinghouse; within 10 years for any other breach of planning control (essentially other changes of use). These time limits are set out in section 171B of the Town and Country Planning Act 1990.

Have you any plans for a garage or another outbuilding you could put them on? Actually I think they might need PP on an outbuilding?

I think I would replace the brick that face his side and leave the stone/cream as it is.

You can get it ready painted. I don't remember where we got ours from but 14 years later I've only just arranged for someone to repaint it. Edit: Buildbase sell ready painted but shop around.. https://www.buildbase.co.uk/timber-doors-sheet-material/pse-cladding/outdoor-cladding/pre-painted-sawn-featheredge-cladding-black-32x175mm-x-43m-100010914-2832383

+1 Check on the planning portal if the previous owner got planning permission? Then try and get as much dated evidence as possible showing its been there more than 4 years. Perhaps you still have the estate agents sales photos? Photos of young relatives that are now much older? Google Earth pictures? Letters from neighbours if they are willing? Anything and everything you can think of. Once you have a decent folder apply for a certificate on the grounds that enforcement action can no longer be taken.

When I was young they built the M3 motorway past our house. We were offered free double glazing but my father had already installed some. He asked if they would pay for what he had installed but was told it did not meet the required specification. Apparently the gap between the panes was too small. He was told it needed to be nearer six inches to reduce traffic noise. So he let them come and fit theirs which was indeed much wider. We ended up with triple glazing in around 1970. It slid open to allow access to ornaments and photos on the window sills. My understanding is that narrow gaps are best to minimise heat loss and wider gaps are better for opitum sound attenuation. Google finds.. https://www.kjmgroup.co.uk/blog/soundproof-windows-secondary-glazing

"How to find and buy a Building Plot".. https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-find-buy-building-plot/dp/1911346148 We didn't find Estate Agents very helpful. Actually found more "Plot for sale" signs by driving around than we got from agents. Class Q Permitted Development has made it easier to convert agricultural buildings but they must be "capable of being converted" and in agricultural use for 10 years (eg not currently unused or used to store the owners car). If you find a potential Class Q conversion perhaps make the purchase subject to getting approval or wonder why approval hasn't been obtained already. That's actually a good approach to take when looking at any land.. Why hasn't it been built on already? Why hasn't PP already been obtained?

+1 to leaving draw cord in pipes. When you pull the cable pull another draw rope at same time so you still have one in the pipe. 8mm polypropylene rope from SF or TS.

If you have 10 people around for a party its possible to have a extra 700 -1000kg in a room.

I would try pleading with the council and see if they can't expedite the closure request. Google found this for another council.. https://www.suffolk.gov.uk/roads-and-transport/roadworks/apply-for-a-temporary-road-closure-or-restriction/ That suggests 12 weeks isnt a statutory requirement just purely administrative? Point out that you are trying to minimise disruption but that will unavoidable if you can't still have the slot that ENWL previously booked. Mention the delay will also mean the council looses 3 months council tax for the whole development if you can't have that date. (Yes i know its only one house but the person on the desk at the council might not know that or ask). See if they can reinstate the closure in Cadents name?

Have they postponed their job? If so to when?

This was the worst part of our build. Utilities just don't seem to care about messing people about. They treat self builders as small jobs they can just move around to fit the availability of their men and machines and give priority to bigger jobs. If the government wanted to help self build they would open up the market to proper competition not the "contestable"/"non-contestable" mess we have at the moment.

I'm not very familiar with Sunamp but I know they store energy in the latent heat of fusion (aka phase change, aka melting) rather that in the materials specific heat capacity (aka temperature change/rise). Phase changes normally occur at a constant temperature so to work out how full it is you really need to know how much of the magic wax (or whatever they use) has melted and how much is still solid. If you keep adding heat once its all melted the temperature would start rising again so they can decide that its full when a certain maximum temperature is reached. Likewise if the temperature falls below some minimum they can assume its empty. So full and empty are probably easy to work out but anywhere in between is tricky. Its a bit like the difference between lead acid batteries and lithium. With lead acid the voltage is a reasonable measure of the state of charge but with Lithium the voltage curve is a bit too flat to be a reliable measure of how full they are. Modern Battery management systems measure how much energy has gone in and out so they can work out how much is left in the battery since it was last fully charged. With the Sunamp its easy to work out how much electricity has gone in but I suspect they don't measure how much is taken out? Hence i agree with... Once you have input an output data you could (with the help of a computer prog) calculate how much is still in the Sunamp without waiting to see how much you have to put back in to fill it up.

So no room on any sides of the CU?

I wouldn't expect much performance difference between makes, as long as its all foil covered PIR and same thickness.

+1 The amount they will lend is normally a percentage of what they think the finished house will be worth (not its cost to build), oh and your earnings/affordability.

430mm.. https://www.ukbathrooms.com/products/crosswater-pier-wall-hung-compact-rimless-wc.html Think also sold under the name "Bauhaus Pier".

Were in the Huntingdon area so too far away to recommend anyone. Think our builder is retired now anyway. You can also try local Estate Agents. They will probably know who builds nice houses in your area. Do your own checks on anyone they recommend.

I didn't really mean buy them separately but rather approach the seller to see if he would consider selling you a bit more than what is in the listing. He may not have considered selling a paddock with the plot. Agricultural land is quite cheap so it might not add much to the cosr. Especially if you agree an overage. On the other hand the neighbour may no longer be the owner. Sometimes there is quite a back story for why people are selling. Lot depends what you want the extra land for. The planning rules prevent you easily turning a paddock into an extension of your garden, but if you are horsey then having a paddock next door is perfect.

I think most seats are 450-460 from hinge to front edge. How about... Keep the frame but ditch the cistern so the frame can be moved back (waste pipe allowing?). Then fit the cistern high up in cabinetry. Effectively recessing the frame and WC into the "wall".

Back in 2007 we purchased a 0.5 acre plot with 1 acre paddock for around £275k but its in a village in central England. Looking on a few web sites I think similar plots in Sussex are £500-800K now. This caught my eye in passing.. £295k https://www.rightmove.co.uk/commercial-property-for-sale/property-109470968.html It looks like the seller may own more agricultural land on one side (edged in blue)? Perhaps ask if they would sell you a paddock as well?