Temp

Normally the mesh is raised up on stand offs so it's in the middle of the concrete. Is that what was specified?

You can get small mains powered LED strip lights no need for drivers.

I suspect she hasn't actually formally refused it but has said she will be recommending refusal. It's not totally unheard of for a committee to approve something even if the planning officer recommends refusal. I think I would tell the planners that you cannot attend at such short notice for medical reasons and if they cannot postpone you will have no option but to appeal if the application is refused. In my day there was nothing to stop you lobbying committee members before the meeting. I suspect it might be frowned upon but you could write to committee members to let them know your case will be on the agenda and explaining why you are unable to attend. Make your case in writing. I would keep it to one page and possibly just the bullet points. Conclude by saying you hope they will be able to approve the application but if not would they be willing to propose it is moved to the following meeting to allow you to attend.

If I've understood the problem correctly your proposed ventilation/airflow runs left to right but the joists run front to back so the joists block the ventilation? Can you lift the top layer and fit say 25mm or 50mm deep counter battens at 90 degrees to the joists to allow cross ventilation left to right? Perhaps that much increased height is a problem? Failing that are the joists deep enough that they could be notched or drilled to allow cross ventilation? If none of this is possible you might need to take it down and convert it to a warm roof construction that doesnt need ventilation. This has the insulation above the joists rather than between. In practice some insulation can be between the joists if there is enough above them.

Presumably it's to show that ONLY a simple barrier is needed.

My first thought was that the span looks like it needs to be more than 3m but perhaps the photos are deceptive. I think 300 x 125mm is probably overkill for 3m but I'm not a structural engineer. I'm just going by the span tables for floor joists. Three smaller beams would be easier to lift into place. Building regs won't allow just a simple hand rail. You need vertical spindles with gaps less than 100mm to discourage kids climbing. See Approved Document K.

I thought only fuse upgrades to 80 or 100A were free?

Mark up a site plan showing existing and new trees and hard surfaces and possibly drainage to prevent rainwater run-off. You can number the main trees and add a table giving details. I would list both the latin and familiar name in the table with the approx height of new trees. Examples.. https://www.barcham.co.uk/guides-advice/how-big-are-barcham-trees Some places refer to "standard" size trees which are typically around 8ft tall. The planners usually like some notes on planting. Perhaps look at the advice sites like Barchams give and compile your own. Spacing is normally only needed for groups of plants ike a hedge... eg Mixed native hedging including x,y and z species. Whips planted in two staggered rows 400mm apart and at 350mm Intervals They also like some words on maintenance. For example you might specify rabbit spirals or fencing, watering, weeding and mulching and replacing any plants/trees that fail for the first three years. Again suppliers suggest suitable care and maintenance on their websites.

In general you shouldn't be able to fit a 100mm diameter ball through any gaps. That includes between vertical rails and open risers. However I think there is also a minimum rise of 150mm so you can't just add more steps to reduce the gap below 100mm. You will need to add some timber vertically, possibly cut from spare steps?

Be aware that it's not easy to make a profit actually building houses. Most of the profit is likely to come from getting planning permission and boosting the value of the land. We bought our plot from a builder who was selling it because he didn't think he could make any more money on it.

Perhaps use a render approved for use below DPC? I don't think all are.

Fences and plot boundaries are two different things. If you concede the boundary is where your fence he would (still) have responsibility for the retaining wall. If he wants to move it refer him to his obligations under the party wall act if any.

My concern would be different settling between the different bases leading to cracks where they meet. Not sure what others will say but id look to dig up the existing concrete and laying new with reinforcing over the whole tiled area.

Six months? I thought it had to be submitted within three months?

It's surprising how strong some sealers and adhesives can be. Many shower glass panels are installed into aluminium channels just stuck to the tray, no fixings.

If its a bungalow with loft conversion presumably it's a two storey house which is usually easier than a three storey.

I used these... 24V power supply.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0BMWT3DSR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Wireless controller... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B09TKJSQLR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title The RGB+WW "waterproof" version of this led strip (not available at the moment). The controller supports several types.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0BM5TR9SN?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title The type of strip determines if its just white/dimmable or colour changing.

Ours is connected to the same switch as the overhead light. The controller remembers settings when power is removed so this works well.

Some on eBay check size.. https://ebay.us/m/Cvw9ok

Jewson appear to sell Marshalls Argent in 450x450. Might only be whole packs but check.

If you decide to buy a cheap circular saw make sure it has a TCT blade and the hole diameter is reasonably standard so you can easily get blades.

No consolation but in Gibraltar I've been watching them resurface the outside of a building that's probably 100s if years old. They are using some sort of fiberglass mesh and a paint/render on a roller to stick it to the existing tatty render. Seems to be doing a nice job and smooth.

That sounds fine. There are span tables that tell you what size joists you would need for a 4.2m span. I'm away from my computer or I would look them up for you. Just check if there are any openings in the wall that might need reinforcing to carry the load of a joist above.

I made an LED edge lit mirror. Got a mirror made to my template then cut about 30mm off the template all around and later glued it to the back of the mirror. I found a thin transformer and remote control LED driver on Amazon that fitted in the thickness of the template and glued a waterproof LED strip around the outside edge of the template. The slight heat from the transformer keeps a small patch of the mirror steam free. The remote allows you to change the brightness and colour which is cool.

Many power supplies that have a current limit can't be used in current limiting mode continuously or they overheat and shut down further.