Parmageddon

I presume its backfilled bricks and cement. Question - if the Stakes that go into the ground are 50mm diameter. And i'm using much narrower drillbits. Is there a certain way of drilling multiple smaller holes that will break the sub layer away enough to get the larger stakes in easily? my concern is if I drill a hole too big the stakes will just be too loose when I try to sink them in. Want to avoid using cement etc.

Saw them before, they look incredibly cheap and weak. Can't see those cutting through a brick-back-filled sub layer if thats what's down there!

Semi permanent structures can be upto 4M tall so long as they're within 2M of the garden boundary. Fortunately the shrubs and hedges go on for another 20metres or so past the lawn, we're very lucky to have such a lovely space.

Hi all, I'm looking to purchase some 'Stop Nets' like the ones pictured below. They're 12ft tall or so and designed to help stop the ball going over next door (or in my case into the cherry laurels and sycamores) every time my kids (or me!) hoof a soccer ball with less than ideal levels of accuracy. Link :- https://www.networldsports.co.uk/stop-that-ball-socketed.html They do come with a socket system for structural soundness. In which the 'Sockets" screw into the floor, they're about 40mm in diameter and 450mm in length, so pretty long. As a test earlier at the foot of the garden I tried to see how far I could sink some thin steel rods into the floor and barely got past 150mm or so before it hits something hard. I'm not sure what it's ben backfilled with, but where I wanted to sink the sockets is pretty close to the egde of the lawn, at the edge of that there's some block pave edging then it drops off a good 200-250mm to where all the trees shrubs are. Photo at end (red dots are where I planned to have the floor sockets) Apologies if an incredibly stupid question, but what's the best method to solve this? simply drilling with a masonry bit down into the ground for some reason felt silly. So wanted to ask some experienced folks first! thanks so much! P

Thanks again Iceverge. So taking above into account I think i'm gonna do the following Vaulted Ceiling (layered top to bottom) Tiles Felt 25mm airgap 125mm kingspan between rafters 25mm airgap 100mm rockwool (RW3) below rafters resilient bars Soundbloc plasterboard 12.5mm Tecsound 50 ( https://www.soundstop.co.uk/ZTECSO50S.php ) Soundblock plasterboard 12.5mm Total thickness from top of the rafters to the bottom of the 2nd layer of plasterboard would be = 280mm or so. Walls brick 100mm cavity packed with Rockwool block Soundbloc plasterboard 12.5mm Tecsound 50 ( https://www.soundstop.co.uk/ZTECSO50S.php ) Soundblock plasterboard 12.5mm And as suggested above, all glass for windows and velux will be acoustic laminate double/triple glazed. Does the above sound reasonable/good?

Yeah, now this is where i'm getting confsued..... As youve heard already the unfinished cloak room in question is super loud! Though really interestingly, the room next to our cloakroom is a living room which not also faces the main road but also has a really big bay window in there and has way more glass than the cloak room has ...... but yet there's no traffic sound in the living room at all! You just can't hear it! See the 2 videos below for comparison, Cloak Room sound_porch.mp4 Living Room sound_living_room.mp4 What im finding interesting and confusing here is.... :- 5-6 cars go by in the living room video and there's just no sound at all... And as far as I know the panes of glass in there are just standard double glazing. :- All the other windows i've specificed for the cloak room should have much better acoustic performance than the ones in the living room.... :- My point being if the velux window parts of the roof can be as quiet as that bay window....then i'd be happy in which case I really need to focus on the bits that aren't velux windows. i.e the rest of the roof.....or am I being really silly/naïve here and missing something really obvious? For reference of the velux performance by the way, see image below.

Thanks Iceverge, it's my first time going through the process here, so apologies for any silly questions and thanks for your welcome and help, appreciate it. Most of what you said makes sense to me, though by 50mm rockwool, you mean the slabs right?, oppose to the rolls. :- if the 50mm rockwool is inbetween battens, am I correct to assume you mean attach the battens to the rafters but with the the airtight membrane separating them? :- Resillient bars are more for impact and vibration from memory? my issue is high pitched airborne hisses, but I suppose the bars are super cheap and easy to install. :- I feel like there's a bit of balance to play here between thermal and acoustic insulating? Like the kingspan thats in there at the moment is completely useless for soundproofing...but it is there because the builders have said BC will demand its in there for thermal sign off..... So coming back to my question above and taking your guidance too Iceverge....realistically is there anything stopping me doing your 50mm rockwool below the rafters, then another 50mm of kingspan below the rockwool? then double board of soundbloc plasterboard below the kingspan?

Hi all, After doing some searching last night I came across this forum and already digested a bunch of really informative threads. Wasn't sure whether to put this in the Heat or sound insulation area as i'm actually looking to do both, though wanted to directly ask for some guidance on the best way to get great thermal/sound insulation on a build thats currently underway at our home. As a part of some renovations/alterations we're doing, we've added a sort of new cloakroom area at the front of the property. It will have a sloped roof with 3 velux windows in there the ceiling will be vaulted on the inside. Some images of the plans and current front elevation snapshot of progress below to help describe. (note: roof pitch is about 18 degrees or so, ignore the 24' ref on the images below) And as you'll see on the images below, the construction beneath the felt is 150mm rafters packed with 125mm of kingspan and a 25mm air gap. Ofcourse the 3 big pieces of kingspan below are temporary and will be coming out in place of the velux windows when they arrive. (note the space between the veluxes will be 230mm or so) Now, the main reason i'm making this post is because the front of the house does point at a main road thats close by which can get really noisy, and while ofcourse I appreciate the interior/exterior is no where near finished, as it's currently SO loud in there it's forced me to start considering how I best want to make this super heat/sound insulated (within reason ofcourse!) I've added a couple videos below to show the layout a bit better and the noise levels too, (currently 55db when cars go past, rain super noisy etc.) Video-1646418541-1.mp4 video-1646419242.mp4 Again, I know i'm probably jumping the gun by getting spooked this early, but it'd be great to hear (no pun intended!) steps I can take with this layout to help it stay warm and quiet. I've listed below my current considerations, and some questions at the very bottom. :- Vertical windows glass will be acoustic laminate (10.8 laminated pane on the rear, 6.8 glass at the front) :- Gaps around windows filled with acoustic expanding foam :- Velux windows we opted for glazing option 62 (noise & comfort) their most expensive option and had a 0.93 value from memory. :- All walls are planned to be double boarded in soundbloc 12.5mm, may even do triple as space isn't an issue there. Q1) - Can I add more insulation below the rafters? and if so how much realistically speaking? Q2) - If yes to Q1.... is there a building control limit on how low I can drop the inner vaulted ceiling? (making the cavity between the ceiling felt deeper) Q3) - Below the rafters, would it be considered sensible to use something like Kingspan Kooltherm that has the plasterboard build into it? and if so can you then do another layer of soundbloc plasterboard below that too? I'm sure there'll be loads of things I havent even thought of, so really keen to hear suggestions on anything and everything I can do here. And so sorry for the essay! it is a subject that's giving me a bit of house-anxiety to be entirely honest. thanks so much Parma