ragg987

At point of final inspection we had 2 internal doors not fitted. The doors were available and propped next to the doorways. Not a peep from BC.

On black streaks, it might depend on the wood, some have more aggressive oils or tannins as I understand it. We have Canadian Western Cedar cladding and did not use stainless nails, it showed streaking within a few months.

I can recommend https://www.theunderfloorsuperstore.com/ , they really took this in their stride despite not having much experience with PH-level houses and helped me to get a good system together at a great price. My own plumber and electrician did most of the installation apart from UFH which I put into the screed package. We have a 7kW HP serving 330m2 house so sounds like your sizing is quite large at 12kW. I also spoke to a number of suppliers including ESP, but in the end I did not feel their Ecocent HP that extracted heat from the house was right for us.

I also saw that build quite early in the build and we went with the same Integraspec ICF system + Kryton waterproof concrete (underground only) but with a different builder. Our connection were Trunk Low Energy.

+1 also for our basement, slab, drainage and other bits. Aylesbury. What a small world...

Been there and this was exactly the reason I did not pursue the detailing of our MVHR mounting other than to increase the weight of the stud wall with MDF, but I was a bit more relaxed as it is a toilet on the other side.

This is 90% caused by the vibration transmission caused by tight coupling of the unit to the partition - mechanical transmission from the motors to the wall. We have the same effect, I mounted the bracket on the thickest MDF sheet I could get and insulated the partition, but noise still gets through to the toilet on the other side - we can live with it. There are 2 primary mechanisms to suppress this, decoupling it and reducing it. Decouple can be e.g. rubber washers on the wall bracket (but this is not as easy as it sounds, you need to make sure every side of the mounting screw is not in direct contact with the wall and bracket.) Or maybe create a strong shelf and stand the MVHR on it using vibration dampers - e.g. feet or mats. But you are still hampered by the stud wall being too light. Reducing it is probably best done with weight - concrete or brick wall - not really practical for you. What is your floor? If solid e.g. beam and block or slab then that could be an option. So if you have a solid floor, try the bricks idea that @Bitpipe suggests to prove the concept them perhaps build a table-like support to stand it on, and decouple at the top of the stand (e.g. a vibration mat) and below the stand. Avoid mounting on the partition completely.

Just to clarify, our MVHR heater only serves upstairs, we did this by having a separate manifold which has an electrical heater in line.

We have ufh ground and basement. Direct electric towel rads in first floor bathrooms. MVHR upstairs has 4 supply ducts (4 bedrooms) and we have 1kW electric heater feeding those with a thermostatic timer on the landing. MBC timber frame. Our experience last winter (our first in the house) was upstairs was 3 to 4 degrees cooler than downstairs, too chilly for us really, so I used the MVHR heater for a couple of hours early evening to max out at 20C. (We like it quite warm). Also used the towel rads at lowest setting to keep bathroom warmer. We would not be comfortable without heat upstairs. Our MVHR heater is a 1kW unit, I think lower might have been better for the 4 outlets, if airflow is too low then the safety switch on the heater trips. I would say your advice from ESP matches our findings. One option might be to use your ASHP to earn the MVHR air to upstairs using a water heating coil. This will complicate your plumbing and control, but might protect the RHI? FYI I did not bother with RHI as the premium of an approved installation was around £4k.

Power consumption will depend not just on the base unit but also on the number and tours of device you connect. Alarms have battery backups in case of power failure so I imagine power consumption is low.

One thing to watch out for - if you want matching inserts that are not so commonly used (e.g. RJ11, RJ45, satellite, TV) check that the range you are thinking of covers these. Not all of them do. Part of the reason we went with the Schneider.

We used Schneider flat steel plate with screws. Yes the logo is printed (etched?) but is quite subtle and you will not notice once in use. This seemed a good balance between cost and looks, they were priced at the lower end of the flat steel ranges (Hager etc), we bought a whole bunch together for a good discount. Their screw-less was a big jump in price. We had to replace all the dimmers.

If you take a hot shower, the volume in the room is probably approaching 90 or 100% humidity regardless of location of extract. I am guessing any issue might be related to water spraying getting sucked in. If the extract is quite high relative to shower area might be ok. Also, is your shower cubicle sealed on all sides? This might create a flow restriction?

Yes the delivery is a permitted VAT reclaim provided it is listed on the same invoice as the materials. If a separate invoice it is not claimable.

Ours is a cabinet about 0.5m tall and bottom is perhaps 300 to 400mm above ground. No comments from BC. No way we could site switches between 1350 and 1450 with this CU as switches are stacked on top of each other.

I have experienced a denied claim on the past for what the company considered material but they did not ask specifically about. Nothing to do with build. So I err on side of caution, my view is that there is no point in risking a declined claim and losing everything if there is a fire just to save a few hundred pounds. It would not surprise me if there is some definition of a explicit or implicit in there.

We have an annexe which is rectangular with lounge at one end and bedroom at the other. In between are bathroom and kitchen. We designed the kitchen as a galley and a connecting corridor, this works great in my view and maximises the space available - the corridor doubles as standing space for the kitchen. Pattern language was a strong influence for our design. Timeless.

I have never laid flooring, but just a thought, the reference level is the tongue and groove so machining first might lead to an uneven floor. Might it be best to stick it down and then sand it to get a flat finish? Also, would maching the front remove the patina that is part of the appeal? Guess depends on the condition e.g. deep scratches. Must admit machining 1000s of small pieces does not appeal so if I were doing it and if the fronts were reasonable I would leave bitumen and Sika it to the floor, then look to sand the minimum I could get away with to leave a flat finish. That website has some tips on laying, maybe call them for advice?

I looked at this option as we really loved the idea, in the end we did not follow through as it would be a lot more expensive than engineered oak to lay (I estimated at least double the price materials + labour vs good quality engineered oak). There are some stunning reclaims out there, including hardwoods you cannot get hold of new these days. Have you seen https://parquet-parquet.co.uk/ If your's is a low energy house then your UFH flow will run pretty cool - say 25-28C - and your slab will be even cooler - probably 23-25C, so I doubt you would get risk of distorting at these temperatures. As for the insulation impact, there should be no material difference between 15mm or 22mm thickness, I would just make sure it is well bonded to the screed to minimise air pockets. We have 22mm engineered oak stuck with adhesive and heat transfer works well.

I did not split out, just described both in one line.

Hmmm. Has the form changed since march? I did not have any of these, just questions to check my eligibility for a reclaim.

I did my own submission based on excel. I already had my invoices in order but if is still many hours of work to note it, check the invoice, do currency conversion and cross reference each invoice. You also need to be clear about what is claimable. So can understand why it would be worth paying someone when you have a lot on already. But the hard work of finding every invoice e.g. hard copy, email copy etc still remains with you. You can guard against loss by a trip to the library and photocopy it all.

Even if the numbers are wrong the sentiment if probably right. However, chances are that majority of the vehicles are used at PEAK times - e.g. morning run to office / school whatever. So then we still need 70% (1) of the vehicles to support the concurrent users at peak. So traffic cannot be avoided unless there is a major change in our ways of living or we adopt mass transport in larger numbers. This is the problem with stats - on the face of it they can show anything, but the detail is importnat too. (1) or whatever the percentage might be - I made that up to illustrate the point

Megabad where all my second fix plumbing came from. I think about half UK price when the Pound was stronger, but danger of this approach is you go with the premium brands "just because they are cheaper".

I went with the Villeroy & Boch Subway 2.0 Directflush. Looks good and flushes well with Geberit dual-flush, there is no direct splashing from the open rim. No experience of the Aquablade.