Calvinmiddle

Looks great Jeremy

Wondering how you convinced everyone to evict the cats and not the dog....

96

Word of warning here from someone who is still having a nightmare with LED lights. I spec'd 240v GU10 fittings for a number of recessed downlights - I naively thought that if I got dimmable LED GU10s and got the electrician to fit LED dimmers than I would be all good. How wrong I was - got a 40+ dimmable LED GU10s from LED Hut only to find they flicker like they are trying to induce an epileptic fit and so after chatting to the electrician he claims it is due to the fact they aren't compatible with the dimmer switches they have fitted and their wholesaler recommends Megaman GU10s. So I go out and get them and now find there is hardly any dim in them, not the 100%-0% like I was expecting with the old incandescent light, more like 100%-50% then drop to nothing. Really wish I had paid more attention to this at the planning stage - some people have said I would have been better fitting a 24v system, not sure if that is true or not. Bottom line, if you want dimmable LEDs then be a bit more careful on what you are doing...

LED hut now have 3 options for GU10 fitting (and possibly other but haven't look as I needed only GU10s Warm White (2700 Kelvin) Daylight (4000 Kelvin) Cool White (5000 Kelvin)

That looks like the one I have, I went for a lever tap on the wall away from the bath, will get a photo of it later

So here is the set up I have on our treatment plant. This is the corner it's in, you can see the manhole in the grass as the soil has dried out and the metal edges are showing a bit more than normal. The pump is under the beehive. This is the cover off and you can see the pipe running through a drainpipe to the unit. Finally this is the beehive removed and you can see the pump (50w), the alarm and the power sockets.

Right, I've used my Aussie battery powered nail gun and nailed them to the side with 64mm 15 gauge nails, these ones to be precise http://www.collatedfasteners.co.uk/tacwise-da2564-mm-angled-finish-nails-pkt-4000-i649.html seems to work ok, was a damn site faster than nailing by hand or using screws. And remember people it's just a shed, not a workshop..... Lawnmower and camping gear etc etc

I'm from NI and at Easter was visiting my brother who has moved to Copenhagen, in their basement (3/4 of which was below ground and which has 3 bedrooms in it) they had a plant room which housed not only the pellet boiler and oil boiler, but also the oil tank!! Had pipes to the outside at ground level to be filled. They didn't use it but apparently it is pretty common.

Ours had no issue with it either - only think he wanted to make sure was that the stone it sits one was below the ground level so that there was no risk of it washing out before the levels where build back up round the house

I got both site insurance and warranty (and thus the building control as otherwise it would have cost an extra £1000 to use my own BCO) via Buildzone. Didn't seem to be any chance to get a discount as they seem to be different parts of the company. But obviously try for yourself- you might be better than me

I went with buildzone as well but think they use ACT surveyors for the BC and warranty

Should the OSB be nailed (got a brad sizer nailer) or screwed? Or does it not matter?

So a question about the order I should be doing the next bit of the shed I have 12.5mm OSB to line the inside with and softwood feather edge boards for the cladding. Roof will be more of the OSB covered in the EPDM rubber. I'm assuming the roof should be done last but not sure if it matters what order I do the walls, will it be ok to do the cladding and then the OSB lining? This will primarily be a storage shed for garden gear, camping equipment and maybe our old fridge freezer as a beer fridge and bulk meat buying freezer.

I have seen a converted barn smaller than your on The Modern House website http://www.themodernhouse.com/holiday-lets/nr-glastonbury/ I like the way that he used the roof to create over hangs and sheltered walkways by having the walls set back from the eaves. What are you doing for the roof? Will you just insulate under the existing roof or are you creating a "roof" under the existing one

This is something I would be interested in, we have the bio pure as well, but we have remotely placed the pump from the unit as we only have a small area of grass so have got a manhole filled with soil and turf that can be lifted to get to the main treatment plant. Can't remember the power of make of the pump, will have to check it but the pressure sensor and alarm was a small battery power unit that came with rechargeable batteries and a mains adaptor. These are sited a couple of meters away from the plant and the air is pumped via a clear plastic pipe reinforced with a spiral wired running through the middle of it. The pump is protected from the weather under a box made from feather edge boards to resemble a small bee hive. Will take a couple of photos to explain better.

I have a gas combi so this isn't completely the same but I found I had to introduce a buffer tank to the heating side of the boiler as it wasn't able to module down low enough to run 25o water in the UFH pipes. So I have a 70litre buffer tank that gets heated up, then when the house needs heat it draws it from it and when the temperature in the buffer tank drops then the boiler fired up to heat it up again

I would invest a couple of hundred on a mature tree. I got some from Majestic Trees, something like Beech or Hornbeam that will hold their leaves over winter, I have Hornbeam but think the Beech is better for leaf retention

Hope you apologised and told him you would be planting a leylandii hedge at that part of your boundary right away so he didn't have to look at you garden anymore

No think you misunderstand me. on my build its: membrane PIR battens The battens hold the PIR tight to the membrane and the membrane tight to the studs of the timber frame, and also gives you the service cavity. So membrane is protected and you have a service cavity

I have the same design as well, with about 6 loops which are always open and runs constantly. My point is if the BCO have an issue point out you could run it as 20-24 zones if you want. Remember building regulations don't state that you have to run it as two or more zones, just that it could be. But agree with Jeremy, depends on what relationship you have with your BCO, we are using a private firm as they are connected with the warranty provider, he has only wanted to visit 3/4 times and seems fine with everything

How many loops will you be having? Doubt you are doing a floor that size with just one. If you have any issue just say each loop is a zone and will be controlled at the manifold with wireless actuators

I have the same wall I think on my MBC build. its a 140mm frame filled with 150mm of rockwool, then the airtight membrane then 50mm kingspan held tight on with 35mm battens. This is a buildup offered by MBC and I like the fact the membrane is protected by the kingspan

Talk to Gary at BPC ventilation. http://www.bpc-direct.com great service and prices best I found when looking, also don't buy the expensive red ducting, the blue and white are cheaper but are the same

Think it's going to be the only shed in the world with a triple glazed window and a triple glazed skylight - both curtesy of Munster Windows as they had to replace 2 windows and I suggested they could leave them with me so they didn't have to walk them the 70m back up the drive to the van. No idea how I'm going to lift them in, the sky light is 1000 x 1500!!! You can just see it to the left of the picture