Calvinmiddle

Another good tree place is Majestic Trees - the website is also very good with a section about how to use trees for screening which you should read here. It's were we got 5 hornbeam to add some height to the garden and to give some privacy from the original house before we built in the back garden. We got carpinus betulus fastigiata which is an upright 'tulip' shaped tree, we had looked at the pleeched hornbeam but the prices would make your eyes water! A point to note is that now being now the proud owner of 8 fastigiata and 50m of hornbeam hedge I can tell you they don't hold their leaves as well as I thought they would, none of the fastigiata still have leaves after the autumn winds and only parts of the hedge does and its got a fence at one side of it. I'll add a photo of my trees when I get home. Finally I was surprised at how small the pots are on the trees, the Majestic Trees current stock list gives the size in litres, but even for the big tree I got it the hole was dug out by hand in a few minutes.

So now got a load on 50x50mm posts at 600mm concreted into the ground and also screwed in to the fence, so the new fence isn't going anywhere. Next issue is how to sand back the larch that has been sitting outside to take off the weathering so it's all nice and new looking again. One option is to use a belt sander but as I have 36 length of 2.4m that are mix of 145mm and 90mm wide I'm worried that it will take ages. So wondering if it's worth hiring a thicknesses for the day and using it too take the weathering off, but never used one, but saw Ontario Lakeside Cottage who used to post on ebuild using one to take varnish off floorboards. what the collective option, sander or thicknesser and if you have used one any advice?

What MVHR brand and model is it?

I just did this, paid £250 to guy found on google, search for "land registry compliant plans" or something similar

That is at the top of our linen cupboard which is 1270 x 870. We have a vaulted ceiling so it's taking up the top 1000 or so The other manifold is hidden behind the stuff I have packed round them and is on the side wall. If you need tonyou can squeeze them in quite a small space...

Thanks, was looking at the individual stores and couldn't see that

Hi Anyone know if Ridgeons are likely to open on Good Friday?

I'm not sure you need the tapered horizontal batten for vertical cladding if its board on board. That is exactly what I have and think somewhere on the TRADA guidance it says the taper is only needed if there is a chance water can get through, like if there is a gap in the cladding between the boards, but if it's board on board on water can get through. Can you post a link to the guidence saying you need to have tapered rails.

We have two timed switches, one in kitchen and one in the Not Hot Press near the bathroom. These are switches that can be adjusted to be "on" for between 20-120 mins, I got these in error as meant to buy the 2-20 minute version. so before you go for a shower or are cooking we hit the boost button. i have a humidistat on the MVHR and just haven't found it to work well. when I try and adjust it to run when the shower is on (bathroom extract above shower on wall about 3m off ground) it just runs all the time - maybe I didn't spend enough time setting it finely enough but the boost button is just not a hassle and life's too short to mess around with something like that. Didnt want it set to a light switch or a pir as it only needs to come on when the shower is on or if someone is cooking

I think this sums up one of the reasons I would have no qualms about recommending MBC - they listen and they are constantly trying to improve things. Be it this or the upstanding detail I saw on another thread that seems to lessen the difficulty that I had building the wall out so water dripping off the wall cleared the EPS.

The cupboard where we have all the spare beds clothes and towels etc should be the hot press. But the problem is that we have a combi boiler, so no hot water tank and at the top of the cupboard (it's 3.6m high) is the MVHR and its manifolds, so in actual fact it's the coldest room in the house with the cold air from out side So calling it a hot press just doesn't seem right....

Your guys from the mainland don't know what your are missing

Can you build up the banks on your side of the boundary so that if it does back up then it still will be within the banks in your garden so will go the only way it can - over his garden and the top of the culvert. If at the boundary line the banks suddenly drop a foot then surely that is where the water will go?

I think you have to tell them. You have spoken to him, several times, with your concerns, if he doesn't seem to care then surely your only option is to go to the people he should be getting permission from in the first place ( if I've understood what he should be doing)

How did they do that? And why does that part of building regs even matter when you are on your own water supply

See pick, sole plate is above ground, at the top of the first corner You can see my issue that the frame sits on the slab leaving 100mm of EPS to somehow cover so water running down walls can't track to sole plate. TBH it's not a great detail, if doing it again I would have added some insulation externally as well to ensure sole plate is kept warm. But doing that may erode the cost benefit of not have the twin wall which solves the issue by having the internal time we being the load bearing one and then means the outside one hangs over the EPS and so means the sole plate is insulated

Ebico are in the process of moving from SSE to Robin Hood Energy. Least they are in my area as I've had a few letters about the change

I think the law really needs be made tighter on this. I need to take a company to court over an invoice dispute and the late payment fees and interest you can add don't cover the costs. I think remember reading at the time that in Germany the law is that even a small company can apply to the counts to wind up huge international companies over non payment of invoices, with the result that everything is paid on time - not sure how true that is but if it is that is what we need.

I managed to get to the bottom and got this (and not convinced on their units before you pull me up Steamy) They say their 2.31kWP system is comparable to a 4kWP system due to "smart tracking, smart cooling and smart cleaning" But the best bit is the picture - what is the going rate for an installed 4kW roof mounted system?

Hmm Not sure I can do this experiment - as the pump in the first photo is wired into the timer that controls the pump that goes from buffer to manifold. The pump on the manifold and also the NC value. So no way to isolate the pump in the photo from the NC value which is what I would really need to do.

My view is that you going about this the wrong way. I'd pick a u value and then see which construction is the cheapest. After have a factory built timber frame there is no way I would go for brick and block. Timber frame quicker, more QA and cheaper (for me anyway) if you want solid external walls then you can bills a brick or stone skin easy. If you want solid internal walls you may be surprised how solid they are. Could can also double skin the plasterboard or even build solid internal walls of you really want to. Evertone will have their own bias on the best method method, but try and keep and open mine and get your targets first - then see how you can get there

Half of them are already done due to having wire strung on them for climbers previously. I take it you think the straight onto the fence panels is a no go?

I was thinking of drilling 3/4 holes into the front of the post putting a wall plug in and then screwing on a 25-50 batten and nailing the slats onto them. Don't have arris rails to go through as they are standard 'H' profile posts that panels slide into. Wouldn't that work? Why do you think I'd have to redo it before long? Rot? Not holding?

Unfortunately new posts aren't an option, not enough room and to be honest, the house has taken 2 years to build and 4 years before that to get planning. I don't have the energy to start digging holes and getting posts. Needs to be either on the fence panels (least work) or if that won't be strong, on the existing posts (as you say a pig of a job drilling into the posts)

What's a blending valve? if it's the White thing in my photo then Wunda are talking nonsense as that is from them and I can get it to blend down to 25c with no problem