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SteamyTea

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Everything posted by SteamyTea

  1. Hence I offer an alternative that also works. You doing get something for nothing.
  2. Whoops, missed that.
  3. No, but that will have to be done with optimisers as well. More interested to find out what the shading is like, installers are very happy to spend others money.
  4. No. I had forgotten all about it from when it was published, was the only time I read it. Usually find it easier to just work from first principles when it comes to thermodynamics.
  5. May be better off with just microinverters, rather than a main inverter and optimisers then.
  6. Do you need these, how bad is your shading?
  7. OK, you know best, can't be arsed to have to explain to you why you are wrong.
  8. That depends on how much is lost to the ground, less insulation, higher temperature needed. I am happy to cost things out, I charge a very reasonable rate.
  9. Not wanting to start rumours, but I found that cream cleaned up my condition as well.
  10. Dunno, see what happens when it gets dark.
  11. I think the regs are soon to be updated because of low temperature heating system that use UFH. But the regs are a basic minimum and should be exceeded at all times. The marginal cost is very small. Too many people get hung up on windows because 'they want natural light', then have to buy blinds, screens, shutters and films to reduce the overheating.
  12. I beg to differ. Assuming UFH running at a mean temperature of 32°C, that will have a ΔT of ~23°C during the heating times, walls, which are generally of a smaller area (this does depend on design, number of windows and doors) will probably have a ΔT of ~15°C for the heating season (does depend on where you live and how hot you like your house).
  13. Under the heating system. There are a number of slab/flooring systems that reduce the thermal bridging. Some will depend on your wall construction.
  14. Just how important is flow and temperature stability for your showers. The easy, and cheap way to get both is a vented DHW cylinder with a cold takeoff from the F&E. Then pumps for the showers. Only think to be wary off is overpumping and damaging the cylinder. But that can be calculated at no cost.
  15. Make sure you have around 300mm of floor insulation (check numbers against R-Value and concrete thickness). You can't realistically improve that once the house is built.
  16. Give TRADA a call. Technical helpline 01494 569601 Ask if Dr. Vic Kearley is still there, he used to contribute over at the 'other place'.
  17. The report that keeps giving.
  18. Almost, you really need to thoroughly warm the object that has excess water in it. Not just the top surface. And any walls, ceiling, cold windows that can cause condensation or have excess moisture in them, and it is easier to condense out, in the dehumidifier, moisture that is already in the air as it is the first to pass though the cooling side of the unit. Chuck out the dryer air, why I think it is best to dry the air as it comes into the room. Alt+248 creates °. Roughly right on the RH scale, same mass of water on the AH scale. RH is a ratio that varies with temperature, AH is, well actual amounts. Plus are moisture being removed from the air that is introduced into the room. True, just be thankful it is not a lime mix, would have the dehumidifiers working for decades. Bit of a better explanation a here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_pressure
  19. Are you thinking of getting an EV and a 3 phase charger for it? And only charge your EV between 10 AM and 2 PM. And fit another 16A per phase.
  20. Almost the same as planners. 9not difference is they can't understand the IT
  21. What happens if you say nothing. Does it then have to go through normal planning?
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