SteamyTea

Make sure you have around 300mm of floor insulation (check numbers against R-Value and concrete thickness). You can't realistically improve that once the house is built.

Give TRADA a call. Technical helpline 01494 569601 Ask if Dr. Vic Kearley is still there, he used to contribute over at the 'other place'.

The report that keeps giving.

Almost, you really need to thoroughly warm the object that has excess water in it. Not just the top surface. And any walls, ceiling, cold windows that can cause condensation or have excess moisture in them, and it is easier to condense out, in the dehumidifier, moisture that is already in the air as it is the first to pass though the cooling side of the unit. Chuck out the dryer air, why I think it is best to dry the air as it comes into the room. Alt+248 creates °. Roughly right on the RH scale, same mass of water on the AH scale. RH is a ratio that varies with temperature, AH is, well actual amounts. Plus are moisture being removed from the air that is introduced into the room. True, just be thankful it is not a lime mix, would have the dehumidifiers working for decades. Bit of a better explanation a here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_pressure

Are you thinking of getting an EV and a 3 phase charger for it? And only charge your EV between 10 AM and 2 PM. And fit another 16A per phase.

Almost the same as planners. 9not difference is they can't understand the IT

I liked the Housemartins

Until now. Just keep a good, smokey, fire going.

What happens if you say nothing. Does it then have to go through normal planning?

Can you do a reverse CurlyWurly effect, make it gradually larger over time, rather that smaller. Then put a big Waggonwheel on it, as an act of defiance and irony.

Has anyone run the numbers to see how much extra energy is actually lost though moisture?

Very appropriate for piling. https://www.britannica.com/topic/sunk-cost

People from Delabole will disagree with that.

Yes and no. There are many anecdotal reports that the dry air in an aeroplane causes cold like symptom and I have experiences a dry, cracked and bleeding inner nose after a flight to San Francisco. Trouble is, we can all get those symptoms at any time. But the main thing is that air at 10,000 metres is extremely dry, so the air entering the cabin is starting off with little water vapour in it, and when heated, by 70 K, is even dryer. But then you also have up to 400 people breathing out a litre each of water on a 12 hour flight. You can get units that introduce moisture into the air, but never heard of one in the domestic setting. Though we did have a water tray that sat on the radiator back in the 1960s as there was a belief that central heating was bad for us. We never filled it up.

Get any flat area GRPed properly (it will need a light fall). They make boats that don't leak out of it. Not a brilliant roof for PV, unless the back is facing South, then the chimney is in the way.

True, but they are not walking directly on the insulation, as you point out. As above. But The hallway will take much more peculiar loads than a tiled bathroom floor, but I was really agreeing with you that a gut feeling is that it is not going to be robust enough.

Need to get @Onoff to 3D print a new case for them. To me it makes more sense to assign a smart plug to an article rather than a location.

Because we very really have 10 hours of uninterrupted clear blue skies, and an ambient temperature of over 25⁰C. They are not designed for the UK climate, why we use evacuated tubes, and well insulated storage.

That is at outside temperatures. You may be easily adding 10 K to that. Also why I suggested that if you can, dehumidify the incoming air. That improves the partial vapour pressure ratio. 52 A, only need 13 A for a heater. Just remember that a normal plug and socket can only take 10A continuously.

To evaporate water takes a lot of energy, 2260 kJ/kg. To put that into perspective, liquid water take 4.18 kJ/kg.K and air 1 kJ/kg.K. So basically you need to heat, dehumidify and ventilate. Ideally you would dehumidify the incoming air as that would be more efficiently as you can easily extract moisture laden air with only a fan. But that is not really realistic unless you have designed in air-conditioning. You say you cannot get the UFH working because of lack of power. How are you running the dehumidifiers? Is it a temporary supply? You could plumb in a Willis heater to the UFH (or use immersion heater in the buffer tank). Assuming that the majority of the free water is in the slab. You may need a 5 kW generator and they can be a bit expensive. The MVHR is not going to do a lot, even when shifting 750 kg of air an hour. The trouble is that at 15⁰C and 85% RH, there is only 11g of water per m³ of air. Or 6.6 kg per hour if you can remove all of it. But if the replacement air is at say 70% once warmed to 15⁰C, then it will always have 9g/m³ in it, so only removing 0.8 kg/hour. Heat the slab, large fan to outside, ditch the dehumidifiers, mug of tea and a good book. It back and enjoy.

Being a bit more serious, and as much as I like SI units, some times it is easier for us to visualise things in imperial measurements. 45 kPa is 6.5 lb per square inch. Now I have just measured my size shoe and estimated that the floor contact area is 3 inches by 9 inches, so two of them will be 54 inch2. Now taking a mass of 105 kg, that is 230 lb. Assuming that larger people have bigger feet, shall call it 60 inch2. 230 [lb] / 60 [inch2] = 3.8 lb.inch-2 Now on the face of it, all seems fine. But is engineering, we don't work at the limit of the materials, and a safety margin is used. A safety margin of 2 is not very large in my opinion. I am also not sure if the @1% and @10% numbers are what happens when a load is applied, and it springs back, or after a load is applied and it is permanently deformed. That would make a difference to floor movement.

Trust your gut on this one. Or reduce your gut and wear oversize shoes.

Why not just fit a fixed pane of glass, in a frame, and have ordinary opening windows above it.

WOW, what we have always needed. What is the power density? Would putting tin foil on your roof be better for cooling? Would ordinary PV, or ST even, modules be better for absorption? Is it really cheap, cheaper than a sensible design? But what a great title for a paper, the decent use of words will sort it all out. And what happens to the 'cold of space' on a cloudy day?