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Ah boundaries are complicated - read some of the old threads here. The Land Registry plans are not definitive. It could be that your neighbour is right unless you have other evidence. Easiest is to sell with boundaries as is and file more accurate boundaries with the Land Registry this time.

We had a raised deck and wind out canopy from the wall at our previous house, installed there 20 years ago without PP. I guess I just "got away with it"? So if your deck and canopy were a few mm gap between it and the house, and it complied with the permitted development rules for a garden building would it comply? Unless you have vindictive nosy neighbours I would just do it and take the flack if any came.

new test pit, new results. Perfectly fine.

Not sure you should change any setting, once setup. Not touched mine for over a year except filter clean/replace. MVHR will do nothing much to help cooling, as it only changes the house air once every 2 to 3 hours. We operate the following way. MVHR always on. In summer we keep all doors and windows closed while the house is cooler than outside, once the house is warmer than outside, we open windows and doors to get a good blow through.

Fox do a triple MPPT invertor I would consider this... https://theecosupermarket.co.uk/product/fox-k-series-7-0kw-hybrid-inverter-kh7/ It is on the DNA register so could be applied for via G99 "fast track" which should be very quick to get DNO approval (7.36kW is the limit for fast track) Polar brand doesn't appear to be listed on the DNA so either of your options you might have to jump through a lot of loop with a G99 "standard" application. Strongly consider the payback for 5 x 5.2kWh batteries. IMO V2G or V2H is a only a few years away of becoming more mainstream which will almost supersede the need for house batteries.

Electric UFH isn't really a space heating device IMO, more of a comfort thing. I you rightly bury wet UFH pipes in a thick screed then the heat up and cool down times are going to be unsuited to just delivering a small comfort improvement to the tiles for those morning showers in the shoulder months. You'll end up either delivering too much energy to the house and overheating it or else not noticing the difference. A high wattage UFH matt literally just under the tiles will have very little thermal inertia, it will heat up quickly, and cool down quickly without actually adding too much energy to the building but it will make your toes feel nice and toasty and dry the room out swiftly too.

Welcome. Spend a bit of time reading the forum. Invaluable. If you look at the forum topics it will lead you through the various stages in terms of information and questions folk ask. If you’re employing a PM won’t they have a project plan? I just used a simple spreadsheet and an action log but about half way in i stopped updating it rigorously as there’s not enough time in the day to stay on top of everything. I did kinda document a fair bit on here for three reasons. Firstly it helped get advice on how to address issues. Secondly it helped me think it through by writing it out and thirdly it was cathartic. The encouragement from the other forum members was good too.

The physics is quite simple. Air is a mixture of gases. Nitrogen, oxygen, water vapour, argon and the other traces gases, carbon dioxide, methane, nitrous oxide. Nitrogen and oxygen are fairly thermally stable in the earth atmospheric temperature range. Water vapour (about 0.25%) is anything but stable. It can be a solid, a liquid or a gas. Sometimes all three at the same time (triple point). Temperature is not the only thing that makes it change state, air pressure can as well. This is why when you look at some more sophisticated RH and AH models they ask for air pressure. Water is also strange molecule. It has different thermal properties and different temperatures, and to make matters worse, expands, rather than contracts, when between 277K and 273K, with the latter temperature being a phase change temperature. Then there is the way that it likes a nucleus point to change phase on. Mineral wool gives it billions of these, so like to condense and freeze in it. As water changes state, it releases a lot of energy, which can warm surrounding gases and solids. This prolongs the phase change time. It really is a messy business. But there is another way to model it. Statistically. Build an array of phase change data points that correspond to the local RH, temperature and maybe air pressure. Then look at the probabilities. You will generally find that the high risk times i.e. condensation does not happen very often, or for very long. It is also worth remembering that a wall has surface temperatures slightly lower than internal air temperature on the inside, and often much higher than outside air temperature on the outside where it is heated by the sun. Our old mate @Ed Davies wrote and interesting bit about humidity on his website. https://edavies.me.uk/2017/03/vapour/

We laid just over 400m2 on our previous build No maintenance 5 years on

It was primarily to show how I'd dealt with the bifolds, but fair point.

But what you've done there is more typical, I'm assuming the recent poster has chosen this thread for the insulated raft, which does take the load bearing walls.

Thanks all for the commentary. One further question: How long does the first claimer have 'dibs' on the site address? Had the explanation today from one supplier that the point of the system was to 'avoid them undercutting eachother'... I dunno, but as the customer I quite like the sound of undercutting... 😂 One chap accidentally put in a wrong address (still only a few miles away) and I've got a 10% price difference... I'm wondering if the only way to get multiple competitive prices for the same brick is to give each one you speak to a phoney, localish address - which can be merrily logged - and once you've picked your favourite then returning as a fresh customer with the right address... Not exactly cricket, but then again I'm not sure they're playing with a straight bat either!

Having done some digging around, I find there are plenty of fan coil units on Alibaba in the $100-200 range: https://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?IndexArea=product_en&CatId=&fsb=y&viewtype=&tab=&SearchScene=&SearchText=fan+coil+ They appear to be imported into the EU and rebranded as various local brands (found some in Greece, Bulgaria). Of course the suppliers are in China so you need to pay shipping and import taxes (but shipping from Italy might not be a lot different - how much does a FCU weigh?), and the unit price for small volumes may be higher. The main thing that's hard to judge is the quality. But a fan coil isn't that complicated, just a motor and some metalwork, so I wonder if it would be worth the risk?

Here's a few UK suppliers of fan coils that I've bookmarked when I came across them - I'm still not started on my build so haven't contacted any of them yet: https://coolenergyshop.com/collections/radiators-fan-coils https://www.biddle-air.co.uk/en/products/fan-coils/deco-fan-coil-unit http://www.dunham-bush.co.uk/index.php/products/fan-coil-units/ocelot First one has prices (£195+VAT) but no data of any sort; others have data but no prices....

Result! A benefit of local authority cuts I guess, nobody at the council has time to check anything ?

@joe90

Good question. I will accept any and all advice on this subject please. I don't have an electrician yet , hence needing early advice. such as.... are these radius ducts standard things? do they have to point one to the rear and one to the side as shown? Chuckle. I was thinking of going all diy and amateur and buying 3 bags of ready-mix to make the base. I saw reviews of it, and at first thought they were wind-ups... *when you buy a bag of "Concrete" you don't expect half of it to be chippings! no mention of this in description just a waste of money *Absolutely crap and useless stuff!!!! Most of it are stones! The rest is runny water based- cement colour water!!!! Avoid! Waste of money I wish I would just buy bag of cement and sand. This amount of stones is only half bag of 20kg total bag!!!! And grey water. Disgusting. I have a feeling they both added too much water.